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  1. #1

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    04 F12X jet pump

    I was wondering if this is normal? I changed the impeller on my F12X. The jet pump has about 90 hours on it. When I removed the Stator Cap the grease was very soupy & had a little burn smell. It is like water got in there. There is no sign of corrosion like water was is in there though. All the parts (bearing's) move smoothley. I put back together w/ standard marine grease. I pushed the grease down into the bearing and packed the stator cap to where it was oozing out when I put it together. I have 2 jet pumps, just havent had the time to pull the one off the ski yet to compare. Any input would be appreiated..Thanks...Pat


  2. #2
    Bob 1tommygunner1927's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirtnut View Post
    I was wondering if this is normal? I changed the impeller on my F12X. The jet pump has about 90 hours on it. When I removed the Stator Cap the grease was very soupy & had a little burn smell. It is like water got in there. There is no sign of corrosion like water was is in there though. All the parts (bearing's) move smoothley. I put back together w/ standard marine grease. I pushed the grease down into the bearing and packed the stator cap to where it was oozing out when I put it together. I have 2 jet pumps, just havent had the time to pull the one off the ski yet to compare. Any input would be appreiated..Thanks...Pat
    From our friend Creator:
    Hey everyone... I've noticed some interest in having impeller work done / replacing the impeller (gee, i wonder why... ) and would like to pass along some verry important info that I've learned in my time. I've found this information by making my own mistakes and testing what works. Keep in mind that I regularly pull apart my pumps due to one reason or another thanks to my racing. I think I'm down to half an hour for a full pump removal and re-install. Anyways, these are just some random notes that I can think of right now.


    Now here's what I do...

    --remove--
    1. Pull off the reverse cable (it's a slide release)
    2. Pull reverse bucket side bolts (2x)
    3. Pull reverse bucket slide bolt
    4. Pull off the steering (and trim for R models) cables
    5. Cut the zip tie holding the bilge hose on the nozel, and pull the hose off
    6. Pull the pump nozel bolts (4x)
    7. Pull the pump mount bolts (4x)
    8. Pull (the pump)

    --re-install--

    1. Grease the large seal o-ring with a good waterproof grease
    2. Grease the impeller splines (one big bead all the way aroud) and boot (light coating on seal surface)
    3. Make sure the dowl pins are in place in ither the seat or the pump
    4. Line the impeller up onto the driveshaft and push the pump up to the mounting plate
    5. *make sure the cooling water passage is on the left side
    6. **make sure the speed sensor wire is NOT trapped between the mounting plate and pump (d'oh!)
    7. Bolt the pump to the plate (4x) use red locktite and torque down to 16 foot pounds
    8. Bolt the nozel to the pump (4x) use red locktite and torque down to 16 foot pounds
    9. Re-install the steering (and trim) cables
    10. Push the builge hose onto the nozel fitting and secure with a zip tie
    11. Grease the track for the Reverse bucket pivot bolt
    12. Bolt on the Reverse bucket pivot bolt (through the bracket) and use red locktite
    13. Grease the smooth part of the reverse bucket bolts and Bolt down the reverse bucket (2x) use red locktite
    14. Re-attach reverse bucket cable

    That's it. piece of cake. now for the fun stuff. my notes.

    1. As mentioned earlier, use red locktite on everything. ** THIS INCLUDES THE IMPELLER THREADS! (No Grease, it WILL back off and damage the pump)
    2. Throw away any Honda greases you have. They are enviro-friendly, but verry wussy for the job. Instead use a quality waterproof grease. My favorite is Johnson & Evinrude tripple guard grease
    3. This goes for the grease in the pump as well. I've had much better results by using a gear oil in the pump instead of a grease. My sujestion is Johnson & Evinrude Synthetic Lower Unit gear oil. I fill the pump to the point of where I can just see the oil coming up over the bearing when the pump's at a 45 degree angle or so.
    4. When pulling off the impeller, use a big bench vice to hold the pump shaft while you break the impeller free with a breaker bar on the impeller tool
    5. Make sure when installing a new impeller to put the rubber stopper in that goes between the splines and threads of the impeller. Afterwards load up the splines of the impeller with grease... lots of it. (it'll keep the pump quiet)
    6. The stock impeller is a @#$% to get off. Heat may be required ... along with a cheater bar. But, be carefull!
    7. Use grease on all o-rings, even the small ones sealing the back side of the impeller. Make sure that the tiny one is still there.

    hmmm, what else.... That's all I can think of for the moment.

    Good luck, everyone! It's really verry simple and easy to work on once you do it once or twice.
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    Robert Stellhorn, Stellhorn Racing, #811 R/A Expert - Honda R-12X, National Highpoint #8
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  3. #3
    cigarlust's Avatar
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    What's the huge advantage switching to gear oil? I'm @ 110ish hrs and need to do this... It sounds like I need to go buy an impeller tool to change all the grease right?

  4. #4
    Bob 1tommygunner1927's Avatar
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    B/c gear oil is a liquid and grease isn't.

    When re-installing the pump on the ski, use BLUE LOCKTITE, not red. Also, chase all threads.....bolts and bolt holes. Use a torque wrench too! The bolts are aluminum and easily stripped.

  5. #5
    cigarlust's Avatar
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    Ok I just had a Solas 17/29 arrive for my R-12x and am curious to what boot everyone uses? Do you go with the stock honda boot or the brass o=ringed one that Solas sent?

  6. #6
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    Use the stock cone.

    For 99% of the people the stock rubber cone works fine.

    The aluminum (gold cone that comes with it) is for race only and with minimum gains in performance it will get loose in about 10hrs of use.

    In fact, once it loosens up performance deteriorates 10 fold as it starts to flop around the prop shaft.

    Shawn

  7. #7
    cigarlust's Avatar
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    Shawn, I don't know... the way you made the solas piece sound...

    I really, really appreciate the input.

    I'm kinda bummed though, I wish I could do a back to back test (I haven't rode in a few months), but I already have the pump out ready for the swap...

    I also removed bars two and four on my intake grate and polished it up... Hopefully with those two mods my weak hole shot will be fixed, I hated coming out of turns... especially two up...

  8. #8
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    If you side clamp / modify the Solas cone you can make it work. I just don't see were most need to try that.

    To make the Solas cone stay on you need to press fit it to the prop by distorting its fit with a vise or fixture.

    As i said, minimal performance gains with a large hassle factor in maintenance. A race only priority in my book.


    Shawn

  9. #9
    Dave Sharp dav_dman's Avatar
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    you only need that dam cone to slide around on the shaft once to know shawn speaks from experience. Do as he says and go with the rubber stocker.

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