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  1. #1

    WTB: Thru-hull bearing for 1994 SL750

    I'm looking for a thru-hull bearing assembly with good seals for a 1994 SL750. The one I currently have in my ski leaks water like crazy and since the ski is in a remote location, I can't get the seals fixed there. I'm looking for the part listed as #10 in the attached diagram. Can anyone help me out?

    Thanks.
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  2. #2
    Lake Mead Bum & BTLS Mark starflight's Avatar
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    Have ya checked this guys parts list? http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=72625

  3. #3

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    i've got some nices ones for 25.00 plus shipping

  4. #4
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    Here is a tip for a leaking seal..

    Trim the hose that connects the hull to the support that way you are running the seals on a fresh part of the driveshaft..

  5. #5
    Beerdart, I'm not quite sure I understand whic hose you are talking about?!? Is there anyway you can elaborate for my simple mind?

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beerdart View Post
    Here is a tip for a leaking seal..

    Trim the hose that connects the hull to the support that way you are running the seals on a fresh part of the drive shaft.
    Quote Originally Posted by kepneriphone View Post
    Beerdart, I'm not quite sure I understand which hose you are talking about?..
    Part number 10 in this diagram.
    In this post, look in the middle of the third photo. It is the short rubber section with two large hose clamps around it.

    It is a short, stout, large diameter rubber hose section, that connects the actual through-hull bearing to the hull fitting the drive shaft goes through to the impeller.

    By shortening the rubber 'hose' a fraction of an inch, the spot on the drive shaft where the rubber seal lips ride gets shifted. If the drive shaft has worn from years of the seals riding in the same place, this gives the seals a fresh metal surface to seal against.

    Of course, if the sealing lips are truly worn out, there is no getting around replacing the seals. You can change the seals in the bearing assembly you have now, or buy another one, new or used.

    If you decide to replace the seals, replace the bearing inside at the same time.

    My notes regarding the seals (cribbed from others on GH )
    Polaris Pump Stator Bearings and Seal Numbers 1994 Thru 2004
    Bearing 6304 20mm X 52mm X 15mm Wide Double sealed
    Seal 30mm X 55mm x 7mm Wide with stainless spring Lip style A

    www.ebearings.com Part# 8702 C/R $2.88 each.
    30mm X 55mm 07A lip SS Spring.
    Bearing # PEEB6304-2RS $7.25 each.

  7. #7
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 785 lugs View Post
    i've got some nices ones for 25.00 plus shipping
    Now that's a deal right there.

    Nice to see you're still around Adam.

    How'd the ski do last summer?

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Part number 10 in this diagram.
    In this post, look in the middle of the third photo. It is the short rubber section with two large hose clamps around it.

    It is a short, stout, large diameter rubber hose section, that connects the actual through-hull bearing to the hull fitting the drive shaft goes through to the impeller.

    By shortening the rubber 'hose' a fraction of an inch, the spot on the drive shaft where the rubber seal lips ride gets shifted. If the drive shaft has worn from years of the seals riding in the same place, this gives the seals a fresh metal surface to seal against.
    K447, so I'm assuming I would trim it on the side closest to the bow, correct?

    And Kevin to your question, the ski ran great except for this issue I'm having. I discovered it toward the end of the summer and couldn't pull the driveshaft to replace the thru-hull bearing for some reason it just wouldn't budge. Any tips on loosening it up or wiggling it out???

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kepneriphone View Post
    ...I'm assuming I would trim it on the side closest to the bow, correct?

    ...couldn't pull the drive shaft to replace the thru-hull bearing for some reason it just wouldn't budge.
    Any tips on loosening it up or wiggling it out???
    You can trim either end, but it might be easiest to do the forward end.

    When you say you couldn't get the drive shaft out, I presume you had the jet pump removed, but the shaft itself was not easy to pull straight back out of the engine coupler?

    There is no retention mechanism. If the shaft splines inside the coupler have gotten jammed, then you may need to apply some real force to extract the drive shaft. Just try not to damage the drive shaft surfaces where they meet seals, or the impeller end splines.

    And pull straight back. A come-along may be involved.

    If the splines are jammed or worn, you may end up replacing one or both of the drive shaft and coupler.

  10. #10
    john zigler's Avatar
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    i have some mint ones here. i would do 35.00 + s&h ( i normally charge 50)

    send me an email if i can help.

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