05-04-2006, 11:01 AM #1
Riva Gas Power Valve Installation Instructions.
Here are basic instructions, websites and pictures for installing the RIVA Gas Operated Powervalves.
Here is a website showing the removal of a Sea-Doo RAVE Valve assembly. Same set up basically.
There are a few other minor things to do when installing the Riva gas valves.
Here is a good diagram showing how the Sea-Doo RAVE valve setup is installed.
Basically the same. (good for a visual insight)
Also check here for some more RIVA Gas Valve install pics/tips
Gas Valve thread(s)
Expanded diagram of RIVA Gas Powervalve
Remove all OEM hardware
Remove the Exhaust manifold; easier to install
Some minor modifying may need to be done to help proceed with the installation of the gas valve adapters.(at your own risk); I don't recommend grinding, but it is possible fitment may be easier for installer.
Plug ends on cylinders where the factory powervalve shaft went thru with JB weld or high temp silicone; let dry fully
. Or drill and tap and plug with allen set screws.
clean mounting surfaces well.
Install valve (in correct position); only goes in 1 way notch facing down
Install Gas Valve billet aluminum adapter(s) over valves
Apply blue loctite on bolts and Snug down bolts well; (hand tight); do not overtighten ! Leave #1 cylinder bolt top closest to cylinder head out so you can install the ground wire from the front case cover to the billet gas valve adapter.
Install ground wire via billet adapter bolt; tighten well.
Install rubber lower bellows on base of billet adapter. Apply Zip tie.
Wet down rubber bellows with glass cleaner well.
Screw on and install the top cap on the gas powervalve stem threads. Do not overtighten !
The purpose of the glass cleaner is to help allow the installation of the lower rubber bellows to slide/pop on the top screwed on cap that screws on the valve stem threads.
Apply the provided spring around the circumference of the cap & rubber bellows. Look under the bellows and make sure that the rubber bellows is not twisted in anyway. This can cause a tear in the rubber over time and wrinkle the bellows. Pay Close Attention to details !
If the spring is to not be used, a zip-tie is needed for installation to secure the lower rubber bellows to the top bellows stem cap. In this instance if a zip-tie is used, a small notch will need to be cut on the bottom of the black top cap to allow the zip-tie end to travel the full length top>bottom w/o hitting the cap.
Slide all three gas valve(s) up/down and check to see if there are not any binds or dragging felt.
Install Exhaust manifold after modifications have been done to proceed with the installation of the gas valves
On my motor, the #1 gas valve black cap needed to be cut down 3-5 mm. the is to allow the black cap to fit under the exhaust manifold w/o hitting the pipe. Or as the link above shows, grinding can be done to have the cap fit fully. I chose to not grind on my exhaust pipe as it is jacketed ! Adjustment of the retainer spring on top will need to be done to allow for the shorter height in the top cap.
Test fit peices.
Install return spring provided in kit on top of bellows cap; concurrently, install black top cap and flip retainer spring over for fitment.
The installation is now finished. You will need to do some tuning to adjust the red adjuster cap on top of the black cap to fine tune it to the characterisitics of your motor. Not everyones motor is the same !
Guys, for those of you who have gas valves, please add to this thread if you feel there is something I left out or can be taken out (edit) !!!
I hope I covered most/all of this
Also, if you look at my number # 1 cap, you can see it is shorter.
Take Note of the Notch I cut for the Zip-Tie around the bellows to travel.
Others use the spring provided.
Note the Ground wire Attachment and the height of the black cap on this number # 1 cap. It just clears the pipe!! The Cap has been cut about 3-5 millimeters in order for it to clear the pipe.
You can use a hacksaw or dremel tool to cut the cap. Cut it even all the way around !
Note where I did not grind on my pipe. I used a blade screwdriver and popped the spring to wedge under the hump on the pipe. Holds every secure; over 3 years now.
Important Note: I can't give advice to where the red adjuster needs to be set at, everyone's motor is different. Instructions should also be provided with a new kit. RIVA Yamaha can also help provide assistance to obtain the factory original instructions.
I also do not recommend grinding on the OEM pipe as it is jacketed. Any grinding that is done, is done at your own risk.
Proper fitment of valve must be verified by user prior to assembly. The valve only goes in 1 way, please ensure the valve is properly installed prior to assembly or possible engine damage can occur.
These steps listed above is only a guideline and you are installing the item at your own risk.
Last edited by OsideBill; 09-16-2007 at 11:40 PM.
05-04-2006, 11:36 AM #2
A couple of other notes.
-a 2003-2004 Gp13R or any other bore than 81mm will require that the valve be ground and fitted to the cylinder. A valve fitted for a 81mm bore will KILL the pistons in a 84mm bore!!!
-For the last 2 years, I've been using safety wire on my bellows. No more than 5 turns! I got this trick from Andy Lohr when I bought a set, and they were safety wired. Never had a leak since.
-I've drilled 1/2" or larger holes in the sides of my black caps so that I could see if the valves were opening all the way or blown out.
-Over a period of a few months, I've seen where the black caps vibrate on the aluminum, causing a very, very small amount of black dust. I removed the caps, put a touch of black rtv silicone around the cap and reinstalled it.
-I think the slot on the blade goes downward.
-I've put rtv sealant on my gas valves to prevent them from popping off in rough ocean style races. I use rtv on my springs of my triple pipes too.
Lots of pictures here.... different size springs, safety wire, plugs...
05-04-2006, 04:49 PM #3
Thanks for the added tips and info Mark !!
09-13-2006, 08:46 AM #4
More Information to Share
09-13-2006, 02:07 PM #5
09-19-2006, 10:49 AM #6
I will be installing a set of these next week and have a few questions.
1. I have the green bellows and red springs can somone reccomend the proper amount of turns or even better the target force we are trying to obtain with the spring.
2. Mark I saw the tie wire picture you use this instead of a zip tie correct? have you had any issues with the wire cutting the bellow?
3. I have a spare cylinder and piston to use for clearance verification I was told .020" is normal but .030" is safer how do I adjust this? as far as I can tell there is a stop machined on the end of the valve. do I have to take material from the radius where it meets the piston?
Thats all for now
02-20-2008, 01:44 PM #7
hey guys, i had an idea. instead of using silicone, or tapping the holes and never being able to go back to stock. how about using this. i believe its for plumbing, its called a wellnut. its just a rubber grommet with threads on one end, and a screw.. just tighten the screw and the grommet expands and gets stuck in the shaft.. i tried forcing it out from the inside and it didnt move, so i think it will hold, i havent ran the motor with them in yet but we'll see.. make sure the shaft is completely dry or it will just spin..
Last edited by RDH; 02-27-2008 at 11:27 AM.
02-20-2008, 02:35 PM #8
ool beans ! Another innovative idea
02-20-2008, 05:21 PM #9
I made brass plugs for mine and pressed them in. I know others have aluminum plugs available that glue in. Somewhere on here there is a drawing for the plugs I made.
03-18-2008, 11:25 AM #10
this definitly needs to be a sticky...
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