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  1. #1
    Pro-pulsion's Avatar
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    Suggestions For A 96XP?

    Hey guys, I'm rebuilding my 96XP. I tore it down today and found that half of the ball bearings in the mag side crank bearing were missing on both of the outer bearings. I found some debris in between the two bearings and a few of the bearings but not enough to account for all that is missing. I'll someday before summer send out the crank and get a rebuilt one and put in a new set of pistons and rings along with a complete gasket set. The cylinders are very clean and still have the crosshatching at about mid way. The head and base are clean and no damage. Any suggestions as to what else I can do to help it become more reliable and help it run a little happier? I want to polish everything inside the crankcase and put a light chamfer on all sharp edges. Is there enough room in that crank base to stuff it? Would there have to be timing changes if the crank were to be stuffed? Thanks for the help.


  2. #2
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Dont' polish anything on the intake side. The rough casting atomizes the fuel better, and you'll kill performance by smoothing it. Do grind away sharp edges, but not cast rises/ledges. On the exhaust side, all can be smoothed. Porting/smoothing the exhaust manifold, and exhaust outlets of the cylinders offers some gains.

    Your cylinders need micing to check for excessive wear. What the middle looks like has no meaning.The wear area is up at the top where the rings stop, and they can get egg-shaped over time and lose compression.

    The counterbalance shaft bearings need replacing also.

    What oil was used prior to the bearing(s) failure? Plus, I have no idea on what you mean by stuffing the crank?

    And...welcome to GH!

  3. #3
    Pro-pulsion's Avatar
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    A buddy of mine is a fairly old guy and he used to race sleds. He told me that they used to fill the bottom end of the crankcase with some sort of compound (which was meant for this). It makes the air space between the crankcase and the lowest crank web travel as close as possible forcing the fuel charge to the top end faster. I guess it gives you a few more HP going by what he says and he has been a technician for 30+ years.

    I thought it might deprive the bottom end of enough lubrication but apparently there was never an issue around that. I noticed the counterbalance shaft seals were in bad shape so you're right on the money there and thanks for bringing up the measurement at the top of the cylindes, I never thought of that so it will get done too. I guess what I meant for chamfering was more of deburring. I just want to take the sharp edges off of the sides where the cases meet using a pipe scraper. It's a manual hand held tool that just drag around the edges of burred surfaces. It only removes about 1/32 of an inch unless you press hard.

    As for the oil, I have been using Maxima MarinePro. Previous to my owning it I don't know. This is the first time this ski has ever been torn down judging on the paint still stuck to the bolts and gasket surfaces.

  4. #4
    for riding,close course or drag.my atc yamaha blaster 200 have a aftermarket stuffer crankshaft for forcing the fuel charge more faster and then fast acceleration. for xp800 no have this crankshaft ahhh! and the space of the oem crankshaft to crankcase no have space to fill for stuffer.in the rave motor the oil is syntetic try torco gp7,interceptor amnsoil or sea doo xp syntetic 19L gas & 16onz oil, premiun gas 91PLUS.no mod motor no more that 175lb compression 1pair prok air filter 163degree rotax valve carbon tech,6.0 nujet impeller,r&d nozzel 85-88 and the killer spec2 factory header this mod require rpm limiter or the best msd enhancer for better tunning this is kit 2 lol for kit 3 major of the part used in kit2 change, full port crankcase intake, port and polish cylinder novi carb,skat track magnum pump 140mm, r&d 83-85,total loss msd ignition ,lightweight flyweell,lightweight pto, jet dynamic intake grate modified and expert rider for gforce and speed this mod require tiny tac or racepak and expert tunner other mod disponilbles lol.

  5. #5
    I would avoid doing anything to the case mating surfaces.

  6. #6
    Pro-pulsion's Avatar
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    Just for riding, also any suggestions for a good quality crank would be appreciated too. I found one by a company called Hot Rods, it's a really nice looking crank but I want to take my time and piece it together gradually with some really durable parts. I don't need the ski to be ready any time soon, it's just another tank to fill so I might as well take lots of time and do it well.

  7. #7
    I have a hotrods crank in my 800, no problems with it.

  8. #8
    Pro-pulsion's Avatar
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    Perfect, then I think I might put my attention into that crank. I'm also wondering about the best choice for reliable pistons. I'm not a fan of Wiseco, I've heard too many horror stories about them not measuring up. Any thoughts around that one? I'll check back in tomorrow evening, I'm heading out for the rest of the weekend. Thanks a lot for everything you guys have mentioned, I really appreciate it.

  9. #9
    I would run PRO X. I have never heard of anyone having problems with them in seadoo motors, i run them with no issues. I just ordered a set for my 951 too. Here is where i get them.

    http://www.jimmysjetsports.com/servl...52-8053/Detail

  10. #10

    pistons

    all piston failed when no have proper clearance if you up compression or modify the motor change the clearance and jetting.. wiseco with proper clearance is the best mec.used for race. piston at hight rpm when fhe heat is on expand and if no have proper clearance and fuel failed, you no that! why used wiseco? lightweight,strong and durability.

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