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  1. #1
    work hard..play harder! gruba's Avatar
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    wear ring and fuel filter

    I'm back again, bear with me, working on jetskis is new to me. the wear ring has 2 small grooves, like debri was caught up in the impeller, I can barely feel them with my finger. how much of this can the wear ring handle before it needs replacing? I checked the impeller clearance with feeler gauges, it is .008 in. I think that is within tolerance.

    When I was removing the ride plate, I noticed the screws were different lengths, and the 2 middle screws on the sides were missing. What length should they be? same as the foward screws? or the rear screws?

    Another thing I have discovered, is that someone had replaced the fuel ines and neglected to put the fuel filter back in the line....there is suppose to be a in-line filter correct?

    Sorry for all the questions, but I searched, without much luck with these questions.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gruba View Post
    ...the wear ring has 2 small grooves, like debris was caught up in the impeller, I can barely feel them with my finger. how much of this can the wear ring handle before it needs replacing? I checked the impeller clearance with feeler gauges, it is .008 in. I think that is within tolerance...
    I will let one of the Polaris Fuji guys answer the other questions.

    It sounds like your wear ring is in excellent condition. Minor 'texture' on the ring surface is nothing to worry about, and 0.008" blade clearance is very good. As long as the impeller blade edges are not badly dinged up, you have no worries there.

    You may want to confirm that there is no water inside the stator hub. When you remove the tail cone (it takes some wiggling to get it off), have the tail cone pointed DOWN. It is normal for a small amount of water to get trapped inside the pockets of the tail cone, so when you remove it you don't want that water to run into the bearing area.

    As long as there are no signs of water or rust on the actual stub shaft bearing, and the bearing turns smoothly without any grinding feel, it is all good.

    If the tail cone flat seal or the O-ring (O-ring is inset into the inside wall of the stator) look shabby, replace them. A tiny dab of waterproof grease eases re-assembly.

  3. #3
    Lake Mead Bum & BTLS Mark starflight's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gruba View Post

    When I was removing the ride plate, I noticed the screws were different lengths, and the 2 middle screws on the sides were missing. What length should they be? same as the foward screws? or the rear screws?

    Another thing I have discovered, is that someone had replaced the fuel ines and neglected to put the fuel filter back in the line....there is suppose to be a in-line filter correct?

    Sorry for all the questions, but I searched, without much luck with these questions.
    The middle screws are the same length as the rear. The white hull on the trailer is a sl780 w/ an aftermarket plate, but has the same bolt pattern as the upside down sl650 pic. Note the bolt lengths on the 650's, yours are the same.
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  4. #4
    Lake Mead Bum & BTLS Mark starflight's Avatar
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    Oh, and the only fuel filter the 780 had was the one in the water/fuel separator. Item #3 in the pic.
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  5. #5
    BBCaprice's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by starflight View Post
    Oh, and the only fuel filter the 780 had was the one in the water/fuel separator. Item #3 in the pic.
    You can still run an in-line filter,if you like...

  6. #6
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gruba View Post
    I'm back again, bear with me, working on jetskis is new to me. the wear ring has 2 small grooves, like debri was caught up in the impeller, I can barely feel them with my finger. how much of this can the wear ring handle before it needs replacing? I checked the impeller clearance with feeler gauges, it is .008 in. I think that is within tolerance.

    When I was removing the ride plate, I noticed the screws were different lengths, and the 2 middle screws on the sides were missing. What length should they be? same as the foward screws? or the rear screws?

    Another thing I have discovered, is that someone had replaced the fuel ines and neglected to put the fuel filter back in the line....there is suppose to be a in-line filter correct?

    Sorry for all the questions, but I searched, without much luck with these questions.
    Just to clarify, was it .008 from both sides equaling .016? or was it .008 from total clearance?

    If so, .008 is well within specs, no problem

    All 6 screws down the sides are the same. 1/4-20 by 1" I THINK

    The shorter 2 down the middle are 1/4-20 by 1/2" I THINK

    Remember to get stainless steel and a flat or oval shaped screw head.

    There are 2 in-line filters on a 750. 1 for Main and the other for reserve.

    You can use almost any fuel filter froma auto parts store as long as it's 1/4" barbs.

    There are also filters inside the carbs (back side) themselves. If they get plugged up, you'll restrict fuel flow and have a piston failure shortly after.

  7. #7
    work hard..play harder! gruba's Avatar
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    Thanks...the photo told me what I needed with the bolt pattern, replaced the 1/4 amp fuse, the MFD works now, and the .008 in clearance was pretty uniform on the impeller. I'll leave the fuel filter set-up the way it is for now.

    I'm going through it system by system, learning as I go, next is the cooling system, I'm sure I'll have questions.

  8. #8
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    .008 clearance all the way around the impeller is .016 total. Very close to being out of spec.

    Get it going and see how she runs. If it goes pretty good, then later on you may want to tighten up the clearance.

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