Thread: pump work
02-25-2009, 01:52 AM #1
i have been reading around and was wondering, do we "set" our pump shoes on the gp's? or seal the pump?..i see that it is a big mod on the gpr platform and was wondering about on our skis.. also what about pump tunnel reinforcment? do we do this?? thanks guys..mike
02-25-2009, 08:40 AM #2
no reinforcement on a gp needed, we have a metal tunnel.. the gprs use a different style intake altogether ..
the basics ..
true your hull ( lots of threads here and on members own sites)
have your impeller fit as tightly as possible .. get the changeable plastic liner kit ..( it will wear the gap in)
have your impeller checked and balanced by a professional.. get it backcut too ..
clean all casting imperfections from all the pieces that are in water flow..
make sure the grate is square when bolted onto the tunnel..
seal the area all around the leading edge with sealer (3m your choice of hardness)..
the grate rear needs to be sealed all the way around with sealer..
the pump itself must be sealed to the body with the o/e foam or a sealer fillet...( no gap to enable air into the flow)
make sure the pump is flush against the hull ( these can be installed wrong and or with a damaged tunnel and actually hang down)
get your plate trued or at the very least get a 2 x4 block and 80 grit and sand it front to back till its all nice and smooth using alternating paint colors to check your work...
shim your plate approx 1/2 inch at the rear (this depending on your plate style) making sure the leading edge is as close as possible to the grate and hull gap.. these could be filled with sealer..(make sure the edge is set above the trailing edge of the grate...
once you actually find the sweet spot for this you could make a wedge of polly or aluminum to fill the gap going rearward, this gives you better turning ability..(no gap for water to escape to)
lastly fill your bolt holes with the rope and epoxie trick ,.. this is the last step and semi permanent so let it be your last thing..
DO READ MIKE THORNS BIBLE ON THE GP...
note:i have thought of filling better the gap left by the poor mateing area between the grate and plate with an epoxie'd block first then filling the gap left with sealer..
Please add more guys as I'm not sure I covered it all
02-25-2009, 12:53 PM #3
thanks you eric, your instructions came in the mail yesterday and the tabs came today! they are pretty beefy i was suprised in the quality (i guess because they were made by bullet)..and thanks for your reply before i went out and started reinforcing stuff that diddnt need reinforcement..im deffinitly using those little tricks when im further in my build..right now i got my hull fliped on stands completly gutted, i learned alot about trueing the hull..my hull is geting serious haha im taking my time its coming out sick ill post some pictures later..
02-27-2009, 09:24 PM #4
I keep hearing about this GP Bible... Search turns up nothing.... Anybody know where to find it?
02-27-2009, 09:57 PM #5
here is your link to the GP bible...
PISTONWASH please chime in and introduce your self to the latest group of old schooler...!!
Is the gpmaster luring in old school anymore since he went efi ?
02-27-2009, 10:11 PM #6
- Join Date
- Apr 2006
- panama city beach 'fl
02-27-2009, 10:49 PM #7
chip is correct in this.. we hit on this in an earlyer thread a bit.. the 97 gp 760 do not have the tendency to crack like the 97 1200's do.. MPEAVLER mentioned the gp in 97 was the lightest and thinnest o/e gp built.. that's good for me being a twin owner,and not so good for you tripple guys.. .. they fixed that mistake in 98.. the kits are not available thru yami that i heard..
you would think that they would have to do as the car makers and have to supply them forever..as a safety issue, if you punch a hole in the hull out in deep water and then it sinks...IMO they make it unsafe...
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