03-02-2009, 10:53 PM #1
Ok guys, as this is my first spring in which I will be de-winterizing, I wanted to get the correct procedure. Although after the snow storm we just got, it doesn't look like I will be doing this for a few weeks, but I figured I start the thread now.
The ski was properly winterized by me and it has been on the trickle charger since then.
Now I'm sure I will have to run the ski for at least a few minutes out of the water, on the hose of course. But one thing that I have read a few times, but never really understood was, "make sure to keep the carbon seal wet while running out of the water." This may be a stupid question, but where do I access the carbon seal, and how to I keep it wet?
Anyway, any tips would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance!!
03-03-2009, 01:18 AM #2
if you have a sea doo, the carbon ring is what stops the water from coming in the hull via the driveshaft. it is basicly a driveshaft seal. you can sprits it with a lubricant to help from running it dry.
ive herd them screech pretty loud before being ran dry, a guy brought me his ski and said i need to listen to his ski. he started it up and man, that thing was loud, i just shot some dubba d on it and shut it up. man was he happy, he thought he needed a new engine.
03-03-2009, 01:21 AM #3
Thier is no real need to run it on the hose in the spring. You can just run all of the stabilized fuel out on the water. You'll get rid of it faster anyway! You should not run the boat on a hose for more than a few minutes. I personally never have run it very long on the hose. I don't know where the seal is either.
03-03-2009, 09:27 PM #4
03-04-2009, 10:25 PM #5
The carbon ring is on the prop shaft at the PTO flywheel. It is the larger looking ring just before the black rubber boot that is spring clamped on both the prop shaft and flywheel. You should remove the plastic shield over the flywheel to access it properly but that's not hard. There are only two wing nuts (most likely plastic) and stainless washers holding the shield in place.
If you need to run the ski on the hose, there are two important things to know, start the ski before turning on the water and turn off the water before shutting down the ski. If you give it the water first and it doesn't fire up, you could fill the engine and hydro lock it, the same will happen if you shut it down and leave the water running. As for the carbon ring, you should have a small water line say 3/16" spraying on it to keep it cool. To get maximum cooling to the engine, you should disconnect the coolant line with the flush valve in it from the back of the ski, and temporarily plug it so all the water from the hose is focused on going toward the engine instead of being half engine and half out of the hull.
Aside from that, it's just as effective to get it out on the water and go for a tour. It's always a good idea to fire it up before leaving with it just to make sure it will run, but 3 or 4 seconds of run time is all it needs. It will smoke a quite a bit if you ran fogging oil through it when you put it away but don't worry about that, it clears out after a half an hour or so depending on how heavily it was fogged
03-05-2009, 10:34 AM #6
Ok, thanks for the tips. Should I change the oil before I hit the water? Or take a ride first then change the oil? Or should I not change the oil at all?
03-05-2009, 05:21 PM #7
I must apologize, I didn't notice the year of your ski until I seen the pic in your signature so I am going to assume it's a 4-stroke? If it's a 4-stroke then fogging oil isn't necessary. The last Sea-Doo I worked on was an 01 or 03, can't remember for sure...but it had the innercooler system. If yours has that then most likely the garden hose screws in at the back of the ski around the jet-pump, providing they haven't changed the design since 01.
If it is a 2-stroke, then as long as the oil in the injection tank looks water free then I would leave it there. For the 4-stroke, the oil should always be changed at the time of winterizing it as well as the jet-pump oil. This is encase there may have been water contamination which could freeze (even though oil is mixed in it), and expand either splitting crankcases and parts or jet-pumps. If they haven't been changed, then definitely go ahead with that before the first run. I would do spark plugs every spring as well. Check the innercooler coolant level before running it. Check the cooling lines to make sure it doesn't have a leak in the system somewhere and by all means hook it up to the hose and fire it up. You want to make sure the freshwater supply doesn't have a leak somewhere as well.
Another thing that I have seen a lot of people not doing, is blowing the water out of the exhaust after a ride or hose run. When you're finished running your ski on the hose or in the lake, after loading it on the trailer (if it's not already on there) you should always drop the trailer off of the ball hitch putting the bow on a downhill angle and fire up the ski. Give it a few shots of the throttle to blow out most of the water sitting in the waterbox and then shut it down. In those hot days and semi-cool nights that water will evaporate and move to somewhere else in the engine where it could become an issue. Last thing, leaving the seat off entirely or even just sitting back from it's locked position is very good for the engine. It allows the water in the hull a better chance to evaporate and leave the engine compartment.
Users Browsing this Thread
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
By watermedic in forum Sea Doo How To & FAQsReplies: 96Last Post: 07-06-2011, 06:41 PM
By 1FastTrespiper in forum Sea Doo How To & FAQsReplies: 8Last Post: 10-29-2007, 01:33 PM
By Jeff C in forum Sea Doo Open DiscussionReplies: 22Last Post: 09-11-2006, 12:24 PM
By MikeTrin in forum Sea Doo Open DiscussionReplies: 8Last Post: 01-14-2006, 01:36 PM
By danbal21 in forum 4-Tec PerformanceReplies: 10Last Post: 09-28-2005, 10:48 PM