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  1. #1
    mjh3ides's Avatar
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    Intercooler Cooling Kit install & DIY Instructions

    I received a few pm's on the cooling kit so thought I would post this. For those of you who want to save some $, most of these parts can be bought from your local hardware store rather than paying for the kit. R&D claims a 15-20 deg decrease in IAT, I can't confirm since I never got around to putting my temp gauge on, but I saw an increase of about .2psi boost with this kit, at least until the boost limiter kicks in. This was in mid 60's air temp & low 60's water temp, so I'm thinking it will make a much bigger improvement come summer. For those of you who ride often in rough water, I recommend doing the pressure valve addition to prevent overpressurizing the IC. The core is copper & very soft.

    I posted complete instructions from R&D in this thread:
    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...cooler+cooling
    Parts list:
    Pump strainer plate tapped to 1/4 NPT
    1- 1/4 NPT x 1/2" barb pipe fitting
    1- 1/8 NPT x 3/8" barb pipe fitting
    1- 1/2" throughhull fitting
    1- 3/8" 90 deg pisser(bypass fitting)...I used 2 since I replaced the stock plastic one to match
    1- 1/2" Tee
    a bunch of stainless hose clamps...sorry I got lazy & didn't count
    1211 or teflon tape for sealing pipe fittings
    marine grade silicone for sealing throughhull fitting & pissers

    reinforced press on hose:
    1- 1/2"x10" routed from pump strainer plate to throughhull fitting...I used 25" to make it easier to remove the pump in the future
    1- 1/2"x52" routed from throughhull fitting to Tee
    1- 1/2"x7" routed from Tee to IC inlet
    1- 3/8"x72" routed from IC outlet to pisser

    If using the pressure valve add:
    1- 1/2" 90 deg pisser(bypass fitting)
    1- 1/2" Tee
    hose:
    2- 1/2"x3"
    1- 1/2"x14"

    Here is a comparison pic from the stock strainer plate & tapped plate from R&D. I have an extra plate because R&D accidentally sent me one tapped for 1/8 NPT instead of 1/4 NPT. I believe they will sell these alone without buying the kit...same with the throughhull fitting & pissers. Remember to reuse the rubber gasket from the stock plate. They supplied a 10" piece of hose, but I substituted a 25" piece so the pump can be partially removed with the hose still attached. This just makes it a bit easier to work with, but if you do this make sure once the pump is installed the hose isn't kinked. Their instructions say to use a speedbore wood drill bit for making the cuts in the hull, but I used a Unibit step drill since it makes a much cleaner hole.
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  2. #2
    mjh3ides's Avatar
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    I ran the new 1/2"x52" hose along side the stock IC hose. There is a straight hose fitting that sits in the hull below the throttle body that is replaced with the 1/2" Tee. The stock hose is metric & a bit larger than 1/2" so I used an oetiker(not sure if I spelled that right) to secure the stock hose to the tee. I also replaced the stock hose that runs from the tee to the IC with a 7" reinforced hose since this will be the highest pressure section & I wanted to avoid the poor fit on the tee. The last pic is the tapped IC cap for the 1/8 NPTx3/8 barb where the 2nd exit hose will be attached. If you don't want to tap the IC cap you can also use a tee on the exit hose.
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  3. #3
    mjh3ides's Avatar
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    R&D says to route the the 3/8"x72" exit hose along side the inlet hoses, but I decided to route mine down the side of the hull for a cleaner look. In these pics you can also see how the pressure relief valve is plumbed in. I think I paid $160 for the pressure valve kit which seems a bit much for the valve, a few sections of hose, clamps, a tee & a 1/2" pisser. I'm not sure if these valves can be bought elsewhere, but if they can you'll want one that opens @ 25psi.
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  4. #4
    mjh3ides's Avatar
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    As you can see I used the stock cable ties to secure the hoses and added a couple more. FYI, the stock ties are removeable...they have a release button, so don't cut them. Also, not sure if you can tell in the pic, but the extra 3/8" pisser is a slightly different shape than the one that came with the kit, so my OCD will most likely force me to buy another one so they match.

  5. #5

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    Nice job Mark. Can't wait to see this on Sunday.

  6. #6
    It's not the destination, it's the journey!! Rip'nTear SHO's Avatar
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    ........sweet.....Mark did a great job with this kit....very clean installation....cheers

  7. #7
    SHOBiz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigboy View Post
    IMO this is only going to help very minimal at best
    Can i ask why you just didnt buy another intercooler and just but your own piping so as you add mods like c3 or c5 it will keep it cooler for more HP

    'minimal' has to be defined.
    I think this brings down the temp enough to be worth using.
    Rius and Mac don't do things for nothing.

  8. #8
    mjh3ides's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigboy View Post
    IMO this is only going to help very minimal at best
    Can i ask why you just didnt buy another intercooler and just but your own piping so as you add mods like c3 or c5 it will keep it cooler for more HP
    You're right, a bigger IC will make a MUCH bigger difference, but this is my Cruiser boat & I'm having more fun getting the most performance out of a nearly stock setup while retaining good fuel range...I've already got a nearly perfect go fast ski, and another in the works. IMO, this is definately a worthwile mod for anyone wanting to keep a conservative setup.

  9. #9
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
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    Nice job

  10. #10

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    Mark where did you get the pissers? I need a couple of them for my conversion.

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