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  1. #1
    DARTHSPEED's Avatar
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    Purchased a 2000 gp1200r

    Hello,
    I just purchasd a 2000 Gp1200r and wanted some info on what I can expect from this ski. It is competely stock, except the oil pump was removed because number 3 cylinder got scortched. The oil line came off and the previous owner just did a new top end on it. It only has 31 hrs on it and is in excellent condition. I have heared that the ski will need a "D" plate at about 100 hours. I am not sure what that intells. I have just put on about 2 hours trying to break it in. I did the 20% for 30 minutes, 40% for 30 min and 80% for 30 min. All of these had 30 min cool downs cycles. Should I now just run about 10 gallons or so thru and not go WOT until after that. Does that sound like I am on the right track?? Please any info or suggestions.


  2. #2
    Never say never KirkF350's Avatar
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    Welcome to greenhulk. I think you are on the right track. Do some more searches, you will find hours, days, of good reading on this ski.
    If you have not already, make sure your oil/fuel ratio is "fat" during your break in. This may bring up hours of debate, but I always ran 32:1 on break in and afterwards 40:1.
    Since you did the initial break in, you can have some WOT runs, just do not hold open for too long.
    As for the D-plate, I would change soon. You may be ok for a while but this modification only takes an hour or 2 at the most and will cost less than $100.00. I also stongly suggest that you buy the "waveeater" powervalve clips. This will cost $60.00 and could save your motor. Only takes 15 minutes to install.
    Don't hesitate to ask questions about this ski. There are SEVERAL of us on here who had had more than one GPR and have owned them for years.
    Good luck and congrats on the ski.

  3. #3
    Do not wait on installing the waveater clips. This is a must and you could chance losing your whole motor like I did. I would also buy the waveater or RPM powervalve couplers while you are at it. These go in between the powervalve shafts and will not fall off like the OEM ones (if they fall off the poervalves will not open therefore causing hesitation or boging when giving it throttle).

    I have been thru a lot with this ski since losing the motor due to the clips falling off of the powervalves and would be happy to answer any questions based on my current knowledge that I have gained mainly from this site. Also, listen to folks on this site or mechanics associated with this site rather than local shop mechanics that are not very familiar with this ski.

    This is a fun ski that gives unlimited adrenalin rushes!!

  4. #4
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DARTHSPEED View Post
    Hello,
    I just purchasd a 2000 Gp1200r and wanted some info on what I can expect from this ski. It is competely stock, except the oil pump was removed because number 3 cylinder got scortched. The oil line came off and the previous owner just did a new top end on it. It only has 31 hrs on it and is in excellent condition. I have heared that the ski will need a "D" plate at about 100 hours. I am not sure what that intells. I have just put on about 2 hours trying to break it in. I did the 20% for 30 minutes, 40% for 30 min and 80% for 30 min. All of these had 30 min cool downs cycles. Should I now just run about 10 gallons or so thru and not go WOT until after that. Does that sound like I am on the right track?? Please any info or suggestions.
    Welcome to the HULK!!!

    Now run before it is to late

    Oh wait you found the Hulk so it is already to late

  5. #5
    DARTHSPEED's Avatar
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    Yes, I am going 32:1 for the break in and will go to 40:1 once the break in is fully complete. I am currently using the Yamalube, since it's not synthetic. But once broken in I would like to use Amsoil which I buy by the gallon for my 2003 Seadoo Speedster with the 240 hp Merc and would like to just use the same oil since I'll always have some on hand. Also, what is waveater clips or the power valve clips. I am very mechanical and don't mind doing mods, but know nothing of this ski. I used to have a Yamaha waveblaster I and did major mods to it. That was a fun little craft. I used a lot of Riva parts on it which always seemed of good quality and the craft responded well to those. What about what I am hearing about the ride plat from R&D, I hear more than 2-3 mph top end addition. On the the "D" plate I have seen another style that looks more of a circular hole than a D shape. Is this one any better. I just ordered a manual CD for this to have for any of the mods.

  6. #6
    Never say never KirkF350's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DARTHSPEED View Post
    Yes, I am going 32:1 for the break in and will go to 40:1 once the break in is fully complete. I am currently using the Yamalube, since it's not synthetic. But once broken in I would like to use Amsoil which I buy by the gallon for my 2003 Seadoo Speedster with the 240 hp Merc and would like to just use the same oil since I'll always have some on hand. Also, what is waveater clips or the power valve clips. I am very mechanical and don't mind doing mods, but know nothing of this ski. I used to have a Yamaha waveblaster I and did major mods to it. That was a fun little craft. I used a lot of Riva parts on it which always seemed of good quality and the craft responded well to those. What about what I am hearing about the ride plat from R&D, I hear more than 2-3 mph top end addition. On the the "D" plate I have seen another style that looks more of a circular hole than a D shape. Is this one any better. I just ordered a manual CD for this to have for any of the mods.
    Change the catalytic converter before you get away from the yamhamalube, it does not like synthetic.
    The wave-eater clips mounts on top of the the pin that actuates the powervalves up and down. This pin is known to work its way out of the connection and drop into the engine. Check GH online store, Jerry may sell them here.
    As for the D-plate VS O-Plate you mention, there are a view debates you can search and find but I do not think there is any hard/confirmed data. If there is a difference, it is not very much.
    As for the ride plate, you can buy a Jim's plate from the online store. This is a great plate, if not one of the best offered.
    You should also ditch the stock intake grate any buy a 1200 grate for it. It will not help much with speed, but is much safer than the stock grate.

  7. #7
    Moderator DrewNJ's Avatar
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    Basically, the only advice I have for you is to make sure you have some credit left on your credit card....lots of credit..

    Here's a link to the clips and couplers: http://www.waveeaterproducts.com/

    These are in my opinion required for this motor...


    The D-Plate is a good idea too. Hit the search button when you have some time and you'll be reading for HOURS!!

  8. #8
    As has been said, do the waveaters and D plate now as those are the 2 weak links of that ski. The cat won't make it anywhere near 100 hours, it's due to break soon. You already have more than enough break in time on that motor, start giving it some WOT runs, short bursts at first.

  9. #9
    DARTHSPEED's Avatar
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    Thanks guys, great info and really quick respones. On other forums it takes forever to get responses. I will do the waveater clips and d plate soon. It's still cold here in Oklahoma, last week 70-80 degrees for a couple of days and today 32 degrees and snowed all day. I guess I have a few weeks to do these mods.

    Ok... Now what can I do to get the best bang for the buck on performance either handling or speed. Again this thing is stock now. What kind of top end will I have now stock and what is easily achiveable?? I do like speed!!!!!

  10. #10
    Never say never KirkF350's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DARTHSPEED View Post
    Thanks guys, great info and really quick respones. On other forums it takes forever to get responses. I will do the waveater clips and d plate soon. It's still cold here in Oklahoma, last week 70-80 degrees for a couple of days and today 32 degrees and snowed all day. I guess I have a few weeks to do these mods.

    Ok... Now what can I do to get the best bang for the buck on performance either handling or speed. Again this thing is stock now. What kind of top end will I have now stock and what is easily achiveable?? I do like speed!!!!!
    Stock top speed, 64 to 65.
    There is a lot of speed in the Jims plate, better hole shot with the "jetworks" mod, and maybe a 13/19 prop. This will get you in the 67mph range. To really get speed out of the 1200, you need to rejet the carbs, get some reeds, and bump compression. I am sure there is more that I am forgetting.
    On my 2001, I have done above mentioned items with a 14/20 prop and I am running 72.5 on a half tank of fuel with a 1200 plate. I am getting ready to add the 05 pump. With this and an 800 grate, I should be running 73 to 74.

    PS, make sure you seal your pump shoe.
    Last edited by KirkF350; 03-12-2009 at 10:14 PM. Reason: content

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