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  1. #1
    PEST!'s Avatar
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    Bildge pump Leaks

    I have a 2002 XPL with a factory bilge pump. I have been looking for a source of water that keeps my XPL wet. It always has water in it. I took it out for an hour yesterday. I have a scat pump witch means no bailers. I have reinstalled all the seals around the engine cover to keep it water tight and didn't get wet riding except to turn around in choppy lake. When I pulled the ski out on the ramp it drained for a couple of minutes. I have checked all the normal leaks hoses, exhaust and carbon seal. None were leaking and when I set the idle speed after the first pass not a drop of water was anywhere on the engine. I think its happening when the boat sits in the water there is no vented loop on the bilge pump hose. It pumps once and from there on the water siphons back into the hull because the outlet is under water. I had a GSXL that did this every time I got off of it and pulled it up on the shore. I would come back to a boat full of water. I fixed it by poking a hole in the pump hose at the highest point. The hole let air in when the pump went off so it would break the siphon. Problem was fixed. I will have to do it to this XPL also. Just to inform those with similar problems. Did Seadoo learn it on the new boats?? Yamaha has a siphon break but they call it an indicator. It pees when the pump runs but lets air in when it shuts off. On my Sailboat I have 4 vented loops 2 for bilge pumps 1 for waste and 1 for the exhaust. I had a bilge loop fail once it filled my boat with water to the decks. Not nice. I caught it in time.


  2. #2
    SURFnTURF's Avatar
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    The bilge hose outlet has it been shortened from the bilge pump itself because it wont siphon back in if your hose is higher than the water level outside. The hose should loop up inside the hull to the very top of the fuel tank at the rear and then go back down to the pump cavity and exit externally. If not it will always let water inside.

    I suspect that isnt your problem unless it sits in the water for a while because when you are on the plane there isnt any water inside the pump cavity to drain inside as the cavity is usually empty. (above the ride plate) It usually only siphons back when you are moving slowly or dead stopped .
    Is the water hot/warm when you drain it if so its a loose hose or similar from the cooling section. I hate leaks as it can become a huge $$$ problem real fast.

  3. #3

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    "The hose should loop up inside the hull to the very top of the fuel tank at the rear and then go back down to the pump cavity and exit externally. If not it will always let water inside. "

    +1 on the above.

    access the area from the rubber plug under the seat, and zip tie a NEW longer bilge exit hose to a mount like the fuel tank strap, son't worry the bilge can pump up and out, but whatever you do don't poke any holes in the new hose at the high point, it won't work right and just leak into the hull.

    Johnny K found a split in his Bilge hose which was hard to find because it lay inside one of the accordian folds.

    TLR

  4. #4
    PEST!'s Avatar
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    TLR you can put that hose all the waay up to the handle bars. If the pump is sitting in water and shuts off with the outlet under water water will siphon back in the hull. On large boats the make a special loop that lets air in the hose to break the siphon. They cost about $20 but just a small hole above the water line will do the same thing and the water thats leaked back is minimal. 1/16 inch would do it. Pull your ski up on the bank and pull the lanyard while the pump is pumping and it will flow right back in till the inside water level is the same as outside.

  5. #5
    SURFnTURF's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PEST! View Post
    . If the pump is sitting in water and shuts off with the outlet under water water will siphon back in the hull. .
    With the normal operation of the bilge pump when it has sensed that the hull is empty just before that it empties the hull air is sucked up into the exit hose at the pump end and forms an air trap up top near the fuel tank which then stops the siphon effect.

    If the pump doesnt empty the hull for some reason and doesnt then allow air into the hose it can reverse the water flow and come back in.But the bottom of the pump has to be under water for this to happen.Usually while moving or getting off your ski this can allow air into the hose from either in the pump cavity or at the bilge end. This hasnt happened to me in over 10 years of owning xpls.

  6. #6

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    http://www.whalepumps.com/marine/product_list/9/59/

    whale makes some decent stuff

    Rule also makes a vented loop with a 1 way valve that you might like

    http://www.cgedwards.com/Rule/rule04.html

    I'm going to be adding a second bilge for safety on my Formula and I'm going to use a 1 way valve.

    TLR

  7. #7
    PEST!'s Avatar
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    well today I pressurized the complete cooling system clamping off the stinger and mid pipe hoses and the pump outlet. With city water pressure no leaks. No water build up in the pipe (coffman) then I plugged the exhaust outlet while the engine was running no leaks and stalled the engine. So now to check carbon seal and sponsons and pump mount. I just dont like standing in the water here. To many critters. I put a 1/16 inch hole in the pump outlet hose at the top of the arch.. SURFnTURF I have no bailers so water builds up and my weight keeps the pump outlet underwater.when I pull the lanyard the pump stops and water runs back in. This one does it and my 99GSXL did it to. I cant put bailers back in because the pump has no tubes built in. Notice the siphon breaks in the bailers.. They always had them. (The yellow plastic elbow)

  8. #8
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    TLR on my Sailboat I have 4 bilge pumps 2 manual and 2 electric. I have vented loops on the electric pumps and a check valve on one of the electric ones. Had to because the water in the hose would run back down and turn the pump on again. To long a hose and a small bilge. The check valve slows the out put some but I want a dry bilge. Water grows things and starts to smell. The bilge switches are set 4 inches apart so one is a primary The primary has the valve. The 2 manual pumps have check valves in the pickup and dump out above the water line on the stern.

  9. #9

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    Sounds like a smart setup. Talking to some sailboaters in our marina last yr they all complained about having deeper bilges and the long assed hose run and the backflow. I don't have that deep bilge problem, and after handling a vented loop in person at our boat store I think I'll go that way when I install this next Month.

    TLR

  10. #10
    SURFnTURF's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PEST! View Post
    . So now to check carbon seal and sponsons and pump mount. I just dont like standing in the water here. )
    You might then have a leak somewhere have you changed the 1) rideplate or the 2) trim module lately . i have had the 3)set screws leak on the hull drain plugs . I have also had a hull that had a 4) hairline crack in the outer shell and when under power would open up slightly and water was forced in .

    The sills around the rear hatch still good ?

    When i had a leak I would fill the hull up with tap water with the rear down and fill to a level just above the carbys then leave it for awhile to see if water comes out.

    Have you ever had the top and bottom parts of the hull apart as sealing it back again like OEM is quite difficult once done?

    To rule out the bilge being the culprit block the outlet hose and go ride it like before and see if water still comes in.This way you know where to start.

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