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  1. #1

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    Post Salt Water Ride Procedures?

    I am going to taking a short close to shore ocean ride out of Ventura Harbor here in CA in a few weeks just to check things out see how I like ocean riding vs. lake and river riding.

    My worry is with fully cleaning out the salt water so I do not ruin my ski.

    I am looking for anyone who has some simple procedural steps to follow to clean the ski after the ride.

    I have a steel trailer painted black, so I know I am already off on the wrong foot there and need to carefully watch the trailer.

    The ski is a 05 Yamaha FX HO

    I have salt away all set to be used (not sure though how exactly to use it). The cup says only fill 1/4 of the way do I flush the engine even once the salt away is out of the cup, or do I stop so that the salt away stays in the engine?

    Where else do i put slat away?

    Here is what I think I have already as far as procedure...

    A friend of mine suggested launching the ski then bring the trailer over for a wash pre-ride, then on exiting washing down at the dock and flushing with water before heading home.

    I live about 20 minutes from the launch ramp at the harbor, so once I get home

    1. flush engine with salt away

    2. flush (rinse) inside hull with water (or salt away?)

    3. Wash oustide of craft and trailer with salt away

    4. Dry

    5. Place back into garage

    I know it cannot be that easy but I am hoping it is. I do not want a complicated process but I do want a good ski that runs for at least 5 more years till I am ready to sell and buy another one...let me know your thoughts...


  2. #2
    Altezza01's Avatar
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    i dont use salt away. i just flush my motor for 10 minutes on the hose, then i lightly spray down the inside if the ski. on the outside of the ski i hand wash it with car wash soap. then i tilt my ski up to drain the water in the hull and back it in the garage. after it dies a little i spray a little bit of silicone spray on the heat and bolts. some members also just stop by the lake or river on the way home and run in for 10 minutes in the fresh water.

  3. #3
    volltrex's Avatar
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    I only ride in salt water.......don't worry yamaha's are built for it as long as a few simple procedures are followed.
    I've never used salt away to flush the engine, I'll flush for about 5 mins. During this time I will squeeze the intake hose untill the left pisser starts flowing so that it gets flushed. Salt away is sprayed over the engine sparingly & rinsed off with a garden sprayer with a lance attached........don't like the idea of putting a hose over it! If you do use a hose, make sure the motor is cool......water can get sucked down passed the coil seals if motor is hot. All water is sucked out with a wet vac. Once every 2-3 months I'll remove drain plugs & flush bilge out with a hose.
    One area to pay attention to is the cam cover & bolts. I noticed a small amount of corrosion on the bolts, so now after rinsing motor I'll remove air filter & spray cover & bolt heads with protectant (GT 85 in my case)along with everything else.
    Motor will also be fogged if I do not plan to go out within the next week.
    One other area to pay attention to is the back of the ride plate, give it a good hose down.....salt always appears in the ribs no matter how well you do this! The whole area is also sprayed with protectant......ride plate, drive shaft, pump tunel etc.
    Hull & seats etc are washed with car shampoo & then dried.
    I also leave the seats off the ski (cruiser)to dry......it's amazing how much water they can hold!

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by volltrex View Post
    One area to pay attention to is the cam cover & bolts. I noticed a small amount of corrosion on the bolts, so now after rinsing motor I'll remove air filter & spray cover & bolt heads with protectant (GT 85 in my case)along with everything else.
    Motor will also be fogged if I do not plan to go out within the next week.
    One other area to pay attention to is the back of the ride plate, give it a good hose down.....salt always appears in the ribs no matter how well you do this! The whole area is also sprayed with protectant......ride plate, drive shaft, pump tunel etc.
    Hull & seats etc are washed with car shampoo & then dried.
    I also leave the seats off the ski (cruiser)to dry......it's amazing how much water they can hold!
    I have the MR-1 motor, I am assuming the air fitler in the case so I should remove the top of the case then spray the cover and the bolt heads to prevent corrosion...

    As far as fogging, i am actually clueless on what that is. I apologize for my newness

    And the ride plate is at the back bottom of the ski right? where the impeller is and everything, so you just spray a lot of water in there also?

  5. #5
    Neighborhood Superman SlowStang305's Avatar
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    I always flush for about 5 minutes after every ride, spray down the motor with protectant and clean the outside of the ski.

  6. #6
    volltrex's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTI-SE4426 View Post
    I have the MR-1 motor, I am assuming the air fitler in the case so I should remove the top of the case then spray the cover and the bolt heads to prevent corrosion...

    As far as fogging, i am actually clueless on what that is. I apologize for my newness

    And the ride plate is at the back bottom of the ski right? where the impeller is and everything, so you just spray a lot of water in there also?
    To get to the air filter just slide back the 8 clips holding the top half of the air box & remove the two bolts in the top (apply a small amount of grease to these when refixing), then air filter just lifts out.
    Fogging the FX is also simple.......after spraying the cam cover, spray fogging oil into each air intake (through flame arrestor mesh)......3 secs in each. Doing this protects engine internals & valve stems etc.
    Replace air filter & top of air box, then start motor for 15 secs.....just let idle, no revving & that is it...takes no more then 5 mins!
    Got a pic somewhere....I,ll post it.

    It's the top of the rideplate that salt can collect because it has ribs (have a look, you will see what I mean) that hold the water. Just hose all that area down, also into the pump tunnel from the nozzle end. Then as said I like to wet vac all the water out & then spray whole area with protectant.

    Heres that pic of air box, showing where to fog & have also indicated bolt heads, which will corrode if left unprotected for any length of time.


  7. #7
    Pistonwash's Avatar
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    The main thing you want to do is is let the engine bay air dry as long as possible. If you put the seat on, the moisture will accumulate on all metal parts because it is trapped and thats where the corrosion will gather.

    Silicone spray does wonders...I've sprayed a light mist on everything from the nozzle to the engine and it helps neutralize any moisture left over.

    Let it air dry with the trailer tilted if possible and drain plugs out.

    The air drying is the key..you can run a hose over the engine if it has been splashing a lot of salt water inside...I rarely have "sight" corrosion visible on the engine because of the air drying. Been doing this for years too..most of my skis have never been corrode laden dogs. Do it everytime out..it takes 5-10 minutes and will pay off if you do it everytime.

  8. #8

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    i put damp rid bags under my seat so i can keep it closed. they suck up all the moister in the hull and keep it nice. they last about a month. there fairly cheep to i think you can pick up like 5 for 6 bucks.

  9. #9
    i will get all the rest i need when im dead corkycat's Avatar
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    just go to the sea,
    ride it
    bring it home flush out on hose for 5 mins.
    use pressure washer to clean the inside of hull.
    spray with wd40 on metal parts
    leave seat off when storing... end off

  10. #10
    volltrex's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pistonwash View Post


    Let it air dry with the trailer tilted if possible and drain plugs out.

    I agree with you about the air drying, but I only remove the drain plugs once every couple of months when bilge gets flushed through. The problem with the FX is that the drain plugs are not set at the lowest point & therefore quite a bit of water is retained in the back of the hull, even with the ski tilted fully back. This is why I find it much better to use a wet vac with a small length of hose pipe attached to the end to get all the water out.

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