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Thread: Cosca Method

  1. #1
    big83bronco's Avatar
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    Cosca Method

    The Cosca Method seems too simple to work, but obviouslty many people are using it. Im trying to keep my set-up as simple as possible. Are there any disadvantages to the Cosca Jet Works method than Ferchos. I AM NOT TRYING TO START THE THIRD WORLD WAR HERE GUYS!! Just need some input before I start drilling.


  2. #2
    Happily Self-Employed WFO's Avatar
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    Re: Cosca Method

    Quote Originally Posted by big83bronco
    The Cosca Method seems too simple to work, but obviouslty many people are using it. Im trying to keep my set-up as simple as possible. Are there any disadvantages to the Cosca Jet Works method than Ferchos. I AM NOT TRYING TO START THE THIRD WORLD WAR HERE GUYS!! Just need some input before I start drilling.
    Nothing against Bill...I personally dont like to drill into my pipe unless I have no other choice. If you do, and a lot of other people have done it his way, be careful not to tighten the fittings too tight. You dont want to split the pipe.

    my .02

  3. #3
    PuprleNuprleGPR's Avatar
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    Do the Fercho and Island Racing methods not need drilling?

  4. #4
    Happily Self-Employed WFO's Avatar
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    Yes, there is some drilling required. Fercho has you drill into a boss cast into the pipe.

    http://www.hydrotoys.com/gpr/tuners/...%20Control.pdf

    Bill has you drill into the pipe itself in an area that is not as thick.

    http://www.greenhulk.net/yamaha/download.php?id=1424

    Once again. I am not saying one is right and one is wrong. It is just my personal preference.

  5. #5
    XL1200Ltd-Keith's Avatar
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    This is based off of Cosca's version, and it uses the bosses in the pipe. It also retains the water temperature sensor.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #6
    Like a chimp with a ball-peen hammer smackwave's Avatar
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    What washers are you using in the JetWorks valve to bring the release to 3500RPMs? Using the red valve and drawing from the pump I had to add a fourth washer and stretch the spring a little.

  7. #7
    i am not using the jet work whit the washer i use the other
    i like the idea of living the heat sensor but if you used in these position the sensor may be triger at idle same one post a pic of using the sensor on top just next to the big outlet hose
    the problem on these sensor is on the early gprs if these sensor is triger the engine will stop and wont re star
    on late gprs these will limit the rpms but the engine still run
    so i like my disconected
    my setup is simple but proven for long trips
    and is my believe is more stable since the water pressure on the engine is more stable and the water pressure on the pump
    and like other members say more simple and easy to install

  8. #8
    i am not using the jet work whit the washer i use the other
    i like the idea of living the heat sensor but if you used in these position the sensor may be triger at idle same one post a pic of using the sensor on top just next to the big outlet hose
    the problem on these sensor is on the early gprs if these sensor is triger the engine will stop and wont re star
    on late gprs these will limit the rpms but the engine still run
    so i like my disconected
    my setup is simple but proven for long trips
    and is my believe is more stable since the water pressure on the engine is more stable and the water pressure on the pump
    and like other members say more simple and easy to install

  9. #9
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
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    I like that.....soo simple

  10. #10
    MPower's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bill cosca
    the problem on these sensor is on the early gprs if these sensor is triger the engine will stop and wont re star
    I have one of the first production 2000 GPR's and when my cat went causing the temp sensor to go off I was able to restart my boat.

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