Thread: Spring Maintenance
03-31-2009, 11:29 AM #1
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
Does anyone know of a good guide that outlines what maintenance to do on a GP1300r before putting it in the water for the season?
04-03-2009, 11:46 AM #2
Fill it with gas, check the oil and start it. If you trickled charged the battery all winter it'll be fine. If not I would get a new one just for relibility. As long as it was winterized there should be no problems.
04-15-2009, 02:03 PM #3
Winter/Spring ready a ski info
How To Winterize/summerize a Yamaha FX/VX 4 stroke Model Waverunner.
Applies to YAMAHA ONLY...
1- Go to the gas station and fill your ski up with fresh gas, making sure you are at least above 3/4 full, (want to avoid condensation in tank this way). Now add a fuel stabilizer, I suggest the Yamaha brand, add it at gas station, now drive home, this will help "slosh it" around and mix it.
2- Now run ski on water hose for 10 minutes to clean out the ski, and to run some of the stabilized fuel through the engine. Shut off water and blow out excess water for 10 seconds with a couple half throttle hits. REMEMBER THIS: the water is added to the ski AFTER the ski is started, and is stopped BEFORE the ski is turned off... if the ski stops running while on water, immediately turn off water flow!
3- you can change oil and oil filter at this point now or wait until spring. I think it's best done now but it's a personal choice really.
This is also a good chance for you to look over the ski well, look for damaged hoses, check to be sure clamps are tight, look for wear items, brackets, and things that may be damaged, loose or worn... from a year of riding things get loose or damaged..... check over bottom of hull from underneath it, also look for frayed electric wires around the engine, burned/melting wires, check the hose and clamps on your gas tank,etc. Give a good wipe down with a silicone lubricant on your front engine hatch rubber seal and on your rubber seal on the bottom of the seat...
4- Now, wash, dry and wax ski, do a full detail, dry out inside of hull, you can use a shop vac if need be, or just towels, suck out the small amount of water in the hose attachment where you hook up the water hose also.
5- The next day, or a couple hours later on that day, blow out water again..it should have be done 3-4 times total. As long as you give an hour or two break between each blow out to avoid over heating engine. An hour or so later do another final blow out, on the final blow out you should raise the front of your ski as high as you can when clearing water from the engine, this helps get it all out.
6- remove the hose that goes from the air filter box to the engine at the engine side. now spray the Yamaha engine fogging oil into it for 5 seconds, then start engine for 10 seconds at idle only. shut off, re-connect engine hose.
7- Now remove battery from ski and put on trickle charger, if you don't want to use a trickle charger, then disconnect battery cables and leave it in craft until spring, but the charger really is a good idea, and a VERY good idea if your storage time is more than 3 months.
8- now spray a engine/hull/hose protection over all exterior surfaces in your engine compartment, like a silicone lubricant, again Yamaha sells this to, spray it over everything inside the hull.
9-now put seat back on, use a small folded over towel to prop up the back of the seat a inch for added ventilation.
10- cover ski with cover and your done. I don't use or suggest anti freeze on four strokes properly winterized. It's not required, when you properly do everything else above including the 3-4 blow out's of water, which you MUST do. I know of no confirmed cases where a engine cracked from winter, and the Yamaha manuals make no mention of adding antifreeze either, and if it was required, or there was a risk of engine damage, YOU COULD BET YAMAHA would have it in the manual in big bold words, but it's not there. AGAIN, the key is to blow out the water 3-4 times..Many riders don't use anti -freeze.
It's kind of like taking 2 empty coke bottles, fill one full of water, fill the other with a inch of water, lay them down on there side and freeze them for a few days, now check on them, the full one will be expanded, deformed and maybe ruptured, but the one with a inch or so of water will be normal, just like before it went into the freezer. same principal, a properly blown out ski will hold so little water that even in the hardest longest freezes no damage will happen.
11- In the spring, simply make sure your battery is charged and connect battery back to ski, start engine, make sure it sounds correct, now change oil, oil filter (unless you did this at the end of last season). Be sure to change spark plugs, air filter, lube cables and lube points now. Then go ride it like you stole it. This will save you several dollars doing it yourself and allow you to check for any damages and have the pride in knowing you did it right and yourself. This applies to the vx/fx Yamaha line.
Why pay 300-500 dollars for all that when you can do it yourself easily and for 80 to 90% cheaper than a dealer charges for it all. I can guarantee you it will be a better job and much more pride and understanding of your ski if you do it. Most dealers just don't care, NOT ALL, there is a few great dealers, but most don't care. In any case your savings could be enough to pay for your fuel during a season of riding plus you know it was done and done right!
In spring, your ready to go! Nothing else needs to be done, except as noted above.
Note: I use the Yamaha brand products on everything mentioned above, a personal choice is all, there is other brands you can use and many people do, I just choose to stick with OEM items..makes it simple for me.
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