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  1. #1

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    Newbie project 95 SL 650 std

    Hello all, ive been a member of this site for a few weeks now and have been picking your collective brains on a semi daily basis while I have been doing a top end rebuild on a 650 I just bought about 3 weeks ago. Bored it half a millimeter over & installed a set of SBT pistons. Now being a newbie I dont know a lot about their goods, but the price was right. Anyway, I bought the ski from a Good friends brother and my friend has already gone thru the carbs, but Im not sure how thoroughly. I have inspected the fuel lines and cleaned & lubed the fuel valve. Tank looks clean, oil lines are full. the return restrictor is where it`s supposed to be. Anyway, it`s all back together and i fired it up tonite for the first time on premix gas. i dribbled a little gas in the carbs and cranked it over and it fired & ran for a couple seconds and I did it again & again until the filter bowl got filled up and it took right off and ran. sounded really good !! Ive read some stuff about high revving with no throttle & this engine built R`s to a point but then settled back a bit. I havent run it for more than 30 seconds or so at a clip because i havent put the hose on it yet. So Im not too concerned about the high idle because its on the trailer, and can only guess that it was turning 3500 Rpm or maybe a little more. also dont know where the idle is set so that may be why. No tach. anyway I want to check Low and high speed jet settings and would like some input as to where thay should be set initially. Anything else I need to check out before I run it in the water? Any input would be apreciated, Thanks, Haigskid


  2. #2
    OLDJETSKIMAN's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk!!!!!! Sounds like your doing everyting right, but your going to have to do the main thing as the book says, strap it down to your trailer, back it in the water and run it. From everything I have read and tried, you need the water thrust against it to get the carbs right. That my plan with the pro

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haigskid View Post
    ...I want to check Low and high speed jet settings and would like some input as to where they should be set initially.

    Anything else I need to check out before I run it in the water?...
    Welcome!

    Have you downloaded the 1992-1998 Service Manual, available from here?

    The manual includes info on setting the carbs for a stock engine.

    Also have a look at the Polaris Service Bulletins

    Have you reviewed the engine break-in procedures?

    Other things to check
    Look through all the maintenance items in the service manual, including those for storage and pre-season checks

    Make sure the driveshaft through-hull bearing is greased with waterproof lithium grease
    Check all bolts and nuts for tightness

    Make sure the drain plugs are in!
    Correct spark plugs?
    Trim the ends of the spark plug wires?
    Double check both ends of each battery cable

    Know what hose to clamp off (and how to clamp it) if you need to be towed, so you don't flood the engine with water if you get towed back.
    Have a buddy on another machine with you, both as a second set of eyes, and to help if there is a problem on the water (towing or otherwise)
    Take a tow rope

    Check the engine compartment frequently during the test ride. If there is water, fuel, or anything else going wrong down there, you want to know about it early.

    Good luck!

  4. #4
    OLDJETSKIMAN's Avatar
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    Brother, K447 is the man Your in the right place!!!!! Dang it boy...... oh yes,...... GOD IS GOOD!!!!!!!!!

  5. #5

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    ok, which hose? the one on top by the big exhaust hose or the one on the bottom?
    NGK B8evrs or something like that, definately the B8 though and gapped at.028. Yes I have the manual but still need to look at the bulletins. How reliable are the oil injection systems on these things, and do I really need the 3 outlet fuel pump? If so where can I get one? what about the piston wash, plug chops and so forth. will check out break in while waitng for your reply. thanks Haigskid

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haigskid View Post
    ok, which hose? the one on top by the big exhaust hose or the one on the bottom?

    NGK B8evrs or something like that, definitely the B8 though and gapped at.028.

    Yes I have the manual but still need to look at the bulletins.

    How reliable are the oil injection systems on these things
    ...do I really need the 3 outlet fuel pump? If so where can I get one?

    what about the piston wash, plug chops and so forth. will check out break-in while waiting for your reply...
    Correct spark plugs are listed in the service manual. Must use resistor type spark plugs.

    The oil pump itself is quite reliable. You do need to be sure the oil hoses are still good, and are properly clamped. Check for possible cracking at every connection. Best option is to simply replace them all - not very expensive to do.

    The single outlet fuel pump is OK, as long as it is still pumping to spec. When the fuel pumps get old, they pump less strongly, and this can lead to carb starvation at WOT, and lean burns the pistons. T

    he triple outlet pump has more capacity, so you are sure the carbs always have full fuel pressure, even at WOT.

    Recommendation is to either rebuild the single outlet pump, or buy a triple outlet pump. I think the cost is under $50, and you can get them from John Zigler

    There have been lots of posts regarding how to check piston wash, and it seems to be preferred over plug chops.

  7. #7
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk Haigskid.

    BPR8ES spark plugs is what you should be using

    Manual has all your settings for that ski listed.

    Oil injection is supposed to be quite reliable, but I don't trust them myself. So I opted to run premix and blocked off the oil pump.

    You don't really need the triple outlet fuel pump, but they are MUCH better than what came stock. And for $26 it's cheaper to install a fuel pump, than replace a piston....

    John Zigler sells them for about $26. Contact him at [email protected]

    What about piston wash? You need to see the tops of your pistons through the plug hole to see what they look like. All black = bad
    Black center with clean or "washed" spots around the edges = good (search for piston wash and see pics for a better understanding)

    Plug chops aren't the best method for reading, I like piston wash myself. Chops need to be done with the ski running in the water at WOT, then you kill the engine. (no idling into beach) Remove the plugs and inspect the color. Chocolate brown is ideal

  8. #8

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    I think the plugs are the ones you posted, will check that out tomorrow weather permitting. Still need to know which hose to close off if I need a tow. thanks all of you for the info. Will send some pics soon and update. Also I bought a SL 750 as well but dont have it home yet. same year. $300 for the 650 and $375 for the 750. no trailers though

  9. #9
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    The intake hose that attaches to the jet pump is to be pinched off when towing. That prevents a chance of water getting inside the engine.

    Nice find with the 750. The beauty is, parts will inetrchange between the 2 skis. I love that about Polaris....

  10. #10

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    Hi again, So im looking at the carb settings in the manual and it says
    Hi speed Mag 1-5/8, Center 1/4 , PTO 1-3/8, So my question is, Do they want the middle one at 1/4 turn open or do they mean 1-1/4? 1/4 turn on the center seems like a lot leaner than the outer cyl`s to me. Also, Im not sure which screws are which. The manual isnt very clear on that. And one more thing, How in the heck do you adjust that stuff with the air intake on?

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