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  1. #1

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    Quick questions on 4" intake install, catch can, and strainer.

    Ok I'm doing my first mods ever to my 08 RXP. I'm working on putting in my 4" kanaflex intake, catch can, and strainer and wanted to see if I'm on the right track.

    question 1) Where are you guys remounting this once the stock airbox is out??



    question 2) This is the 45 degree bend that goes into the S/C inlet. It is right next to the driveshaft? below it. I'm worried that if that driveshaft rotates the hose clamp on it will hit the silicone coupler. Can someone confirm that the boot with the hose clamp on it actually does rotate?



    question 3) The silicone coupler is a 4"->3" and it seems to kind of "fold" the way it is positioned. Can someone compare it to theirs and see if this positioning will cause a loss in performance?







    question 4) Anyone have any tricks for getting the gas tank straps back on tight once the stock airbox is removed?



    question 5) Is this hose (on the bottom right) the one that you connect the catch can to?



    question 6) Can someone identify (with a detailed picture maybe) which hose I need to splice into for my strainer install?

    question 7) I was supposed to yank out these stock air hoses to get better air flow right?






    Thanks a lot guys, tons of useful information and people on this site!

    Jason


  2. #2
    meansvt00's Avatar
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    Smile

    1 you need to make a bracket and mount it to the battery hold down stud
    2 the drive shaft boot with the clamps does not rotate. but you can loosen and rotate the clamps so the screws dont rub the coupler
    3 you can remove the coupler and trim about a 1/2 off the end that mounts to the charger and that will fix the bend
    4 just strap them together and it will be fine
    5 yes that the hose
    6 in this pic you can see the two lines coming off the intercooler (the two copper pipes) it the lower hose you want


    7 some guys remove them some leave them. if you ride in chop you will get some water in there and with the filter that close you need to be careful

    hope that helps a little

  3. #3
    Pwgsx's Avatar
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    #4- I have read that some people tie knots till its snug or add a pvc pipe between the tank and the strap to take up the slack. I would get a rear exhaust pipe and outlet while you are at it, gets kind of tight with that resonator and rubber pipe and all in the center

    I liked the pics btw, im about to do the same.

  4. #4
    JT jpt7779's Avatar
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    Read this document on post # 22. It will answer 99% of your issues for your RXP!

    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...t=79658&page=3

  5. #5

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    MEANSVT00, take a look at this pic, did I circle the correct hose I want to splice into for the strainer?



    thanks for the help from a fellow SVT'er



    any pics of your L?

  6. #6
    AKA: Larry lafjax's Avatar
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    Your pics show the elbow off the sc sitting on top of the drive shaft bellows.
    The bellows does not rotate BUT the elbow MUST NOT touch the bellows. With all our mods the bellows must be kept clear. It will cause a large leak at the carbon ring seal sinking the ski before you know it. Don't ask me how I know. This is imperative. I ended up coming off the sc with a silicone coupler and a joiner into the elbow so it will rest on the tunnel instead of the bellows.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by lafjax View Post
    Your pics show the elbow off the sc sitting on top of the drive shaft bellows.
    The bellows does not rotate BUT the elbow MUST NOT touch the bellows. With all our mods the bellows must be kept clear. It will cause a large leak at the carbon ring seal sinking the ski before you know it. Don't ask me how I know. This is imperative. I ended up coming off the sc with a silicone coupler and a joiner into the elbow so it will rest on the tunnel instead of the bellows.

    wow, good information to know. I was thinking about trimming 1-1.5" off the S/C side of the silicone coupler. That should relieve the "fold" in the coupler and bring it up high enough so that it doesn't touch those bellows. How does the intake touching that cause the carbon ring to fail?

  8. #8
    AKA: Larry lafjax's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stradt03 View Post
    wow, good information to know. I was thinking about trimming 1-1.5" off the S/C side of the silicone coupler. That should relieve the "fold" in the coupler and bring it up high enough so that it doesn't touch those bellows. How does the intake touching that cause the carbon ring to fail?
    The pressure of the bellows holds the carbon ring against the stainless floating ring which is the only thing keeping the water out of the ski at the driveshaft. It only takes a tiny bit of pressure on the bellows to skew it against the floating ring and let water in. Having the intake touching the bellows can skew them letting water in easily.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by lafjax View Post
    The pressure of the bellows holds the carbon ring against the stainless floating ring which is the only thing keeping the water out of the ski at the driveshaft. It only takes a tiny bit of pressure on the bellows to skew it against the floating ring and let water in. Having the intake touching the bellows can skew them letting water in easily.
    huh...that's interesting. I'll be cutting the coupler tomorrow and see if that fixes the issues.

    any advice on the strainer location? Is it the hose I circled in yellow in the above pic?

    Thanks!

  10. #10
    Pwgsx's Avatar
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    yes its the lower hose.

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