Page 1 of 42 1 2 3 11 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 420
  1. #1

    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    topeka,ks
    Posts
    3,332

    96 sltx 1050 complete rebuild









    40 mm carbs vs 38 stock
    carbon tech reed replacements
    1050 balanced crank shaft by falicon
    new oem top end with .25mm over pistons
    jet works stinger valve ,
    chopper city water box
    650 digger intake grate ,
    6 vein pump from a virage ,
    6 degree wedge ,
    batwing ride plate ,
    converted over to premix
    updated stator and cdi
    scott grips ,
    hydro turf waiting to be installed
    chopper city intake
    will install 92 domes after everything is broke in

    i forgot to say iv changed my name , bone1050 = aka 97sltx1050


  2. #2

    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    topeka,ks
    Posts
    3,332
    every moveing part on this bad boy besides the drive shaft and prop have been replaced ,

    parts hook up and tech support thank you's go out to

    lugs785
    crazya
    txpro1200
    jetskimn
    beerdart
    AL
    k447
    randy at watcon ,

    pending ramp testing right now but hopefully she runs like a champ

    any bets for top speed ?

    little ride plate and wedge action


  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    36,584
    +1
    1,272

    Arrow Captive drain plugs, and SeaDoo part number 292001075

    Looks like you are still using the original removable drain plugs. I changed my friend's '92 SL650 to the newer captive type.



    Much better than the old school type that can get lost or forgotten about at the ramp.


    You might consider installing a pair of these Sea-Doo drain plugs

    This design has a nipple integrated into the body of the drain plug. You connect the ends of the bilge siphon hoses to the nipple on each drain fitting, and it ensures that the siphon hose intake is always in place where the water collects.

    Still works like a regular drain plug, with the benefit of keeping the siphon hose intake in the right place.

    Used by SeaDoo from 2006 onwards, in a number of Sea-Doo models - SeaDoo part number 292001075 (Drain Plug Ass'y)


  4. #4

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    topeka,ks
    Posts
    3,332
    well i did 55 out of the box so 700 bucks in upgrades just went poof ,

    those are kinda cool k447 looking thru they did say these leak at the drain plug

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    36,584
    +1
    1,272
    Quote Originally Posted by Bone1050 View Post
    ...those are kinda cool k447 looking thru they did say these leak at the drain plug
    The drain plug body needs to be sealed into the hull, of course.

    As long as you keep the O-ring in good shape, and check it every so often, there shouldn't be any leaking.

    This applies to all captive drain plugs, including those installed OEM on Polaris PWC. Polaris only used the removable drain plugs for the first few years of production.

    I have no leaks with any of mine, but I certainly will look more closely at the O-rings when I pull them out of storage this spring

    Are you referring to this thread in the Sea-Doo section?

    BTW, I think the referenced 292001075 Sea-Doo drain plug may (I should check into this) also incorporate a ball check valve inside.

    That means that even if the PWC is launched with the captive cap unscrewed (just hanging there), the internal check ball will limit the amount of water flowing into the hull to a trickle or less. And when you are riding forward, the check ball still allows bilge water to drain out.

    The check ball may stick sometimes, especially if you have a lot of gunk in your bilge. I would suggest you flush the Sea-Doo check ball fittings out from time to time, and inspect for debris.
    Last edited by K447; 06-20-2009 at 05:25 PM.

  7. #7
    I was thinking 54 stock and about 4-5 mph faster. so 58-59 sounds about right to me. I'd use the stock grate to GPS first, then put the RD on for your riding style.

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    topeka,ks
    Posts
    3,332
    i was thinking about a ocean pro grate for the sltx

  9. #9
    Rasta Mon Condoms We Be Jammin!!!!! TxVirageTx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    5,775
    +1
    400

    mph

    what prop???nu-jet i'll say 60-61 skat style 58-59.i'd keep the stock 4 wedge too.use it at the lake and the 6 at the river,same with the grates,stocker at the river.

  10. #10
    ocean pro grate's about the same as a stocker, I'd save the money and put it towards something else. At least I believe it doesn't have a scoop.

Page 1 of 42 1 2 3 11 ... LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. 96 SLTX 1050 Tuning/Jetworks flow valve
    By kccoltn in forum Polaris PWC Performance
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 08-14-2009, 01:37 PM
  2. new to me 96 Sltx 1050 issues
    By tediesel in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 07-16-2009, 06:30 PM
  3. Changed CDI in 96 sltx 1050, now idles extremely high, please help!!!
    By 96sltx1050 in forum Polaris How To & FAQs
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 07-08-2009, 02:59 PM
  4. 96 SLTX 1050 Rebuild
    By degg in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 10-02-2007, 11:33 AM
  5. 96 sltx 1050 rpm probs
    By fordnut78 in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 09-03-2007, 07:47 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •