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  1. #1

    1998 SLTX Warm Start Problem

    Hi Everyone,

    First off, great forum. I've used it for a couple of years to help out with some problems I've had.

    Unfortunately, there is one that I havent been able to solve. My 1998 Polaris SLTX will not restart when warm. No spark and after some time, from 1/2 hr to 2 hrs, the spark returns and it runs perfectly. The machine runs perfectly otherwise.

    The CDI and I assume the stator have been upgraded. The problem sounds exactly like the TSB for newer skis. However, the fix does not seem to make sense.

    In the TSB, you take the red/purple power wire to the CDI and attach it to the orange terminal in the box. In my '98 the orange terminal only give a 12 V potential when the bilge pump is activated. Doesn't make sense to me.

    I've read that a fix is to splice the red/purple power wire directly to the + battery terminal but before I do this (and with my luck fry the electricals) I thought I would post this and hopefully get some feedback.

    Any advice would be most appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Doug


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Arrow How to correct for no spark, no restart when domestic carb'ed engine is warm

    Quote Originally Posted by Doug B View Post
    ...My 1998 Polaris SLTX will not restart when warm. No spark and after some time, from 1/2 hr to 2 hrs, the spark returns and it runs perfectly. The machine runs perfectly otherwise.

    The CDI and I assume the stator have been upgraded. The problem sounds exactly like the TSB for newer skis. However, the fix does not seem to make sense...
    Be careful with the terms 'from' and 'to'.

    The Service Bulletin (PWC-00-05) fix is to take the Red/Purple wire that comes out from the CDI module itself, and instead of connecting it with all the other Red/Purple wires, you connect only the CDI's Red/Purple wire to the Orange wire group.

    All other Red/Purple wires stay as they were, only the single Red/Purple wire that goes into the CDI is changed.

    When you are done, the Orange wire (which only has power when the engine is rotating) will also supply power to the CDI (via the CDI Red/Purple wire).

    As soon as you press the start button, and the engine starts cranking, the LR module powers up the Orange wire, which then powers up the CDI, and the engine starts.

    Does this make sense now?

    You can confirm whether your CDI is the updated version by checking the part number on the CDI module.
    Last edited by K447; 04-23-2009 at 11:35 AM.

  3. #3
    That makes complete sense. Just checked the orange post with a voltmeter and it jumps to 12v when it cranks.

    CDI unit is 4010447 written in yellow china marker which is the upgrade I believe

    Anyway, thanks for your help. I'll let you know how it works once it warms up a bit more here

    Doug

  4. #4
    casey67's Avatar
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    Hey Doug,another possibility is cranking voltage.With the engine and starter hot,they will draw more power,you need 10.6 volts minimum to start. Make sure the batt cables a re good and clean.
    Make sure the engine isn't too hot,you should be able to put your hand on the head covers.

    And the 0447 # CDI is for the update kit.

  5. #5
    Hi Casey,

    Thanks for the info. Your comments on high temperature may be valid as the Ski seems to run very hot.

    The heads are not scalding but they are too hot to leave your hand on them.

    In comparison, the Polaris runs much hotter than the old seadoo I also have.

    I will check the voltage across the battery the next time I run into problems.

    As far as running hot, I have checked the cooling circuit (filters, valves, etc).

    Are there any problem areas I should be concentrating on?

    Thanks,

    Doug

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug B View Post
    ...the Ski seems to run very hot.

    The heads are not scalding but they are too hot to leave your hand on them.

    In comparison, the Polaris runs much hotter than the old seadoo I also have...
    The thermostat aims for an engine water exit temperature of about 140F.

    That temp means that you can hold your hand on the engine for a few seconds without burning or real pain, but not much longer.

    You may want to remove and check the thermostat and the bypass plunger for proper operation. Make sure they aren't clogged up or stuck closed.

    Both must operate properly.

  7. #7
    casey67's Avatar
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    The water enters the cooling system through a screen in the jet pump ( where the large tube meets the exit nozzle ) Make sure that screen is clear.

    There is a thermostat and bypass valve located in the end of the water rail (rail that bolts to all 3 head covers,you can test that or simply remove it.Many people remove them for peace of mind with no ill effects.When running wide open ( or heavy accell) the bypass valve opens and bypasses the t-stat,if your problem occurs after a long-slow ride,you should check the t-stat

  8. #8
    So you are safe to remove the theromstat all together?

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vwztips View Post
    So you are safe to remove the thermostat all together?
    Generally speaking, yes.

    If you ride in very cold water, or have a fuel injected engine, then you should retain the thermostat and bypass plunger to ensure the engine operates at a warm enough temperature.

    Excessive cooling doesn't benefit an engine.

    Polaris stopped installing thermostats in some models in later years.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Generally speaking, yes.

    If you ride in very cold water, or have a fuel injected engine, then you should retain the thermostat and bypass plunger to ensure the engine operates at a warm enough temperature.

    Excessive cooling doesn't benefit an engine.

    Polaris stopped installing thermostats in some models in later years.
    Understood. I am a water cooled VW nut and have found that a lower temp thermostat hurts gas milage.

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