04-13-2009, 12:18 PM #1
DIY ride plate grinding for proper angle
I have seen some old discussions regarding this topic. Just wanted to know the most recent experiences and tips to perform ride plate mounts grinding.
I have an untouched Riva rideplate on my GP1200R 00'
what tools have you been using to remove material?
how much material should be removed from the front and rear mounts?
I'm looking for speed...
04-13-2009, 05:18 PM #2
04-13-2009, 05:20 PM #3
angle grinder on the back 2 mounts, haven't done it myself so i can't tell you how much to take off but you want the back end to be up.
04-13-2009, 05:27 PM #4
04-13-2009, 05:29 PM #5
by grinding the rear bosses it will give some angle to get more angle you need to send it out. you will also need to grind some off the exit nozzle to allow the plate to go up further.. IMO I would just drop the coin and send it to Jim and never look back
04-13-2009, 06:06 PM #6
- Join Date
- Oct 2005
also keep in mind this mod is not a direct bolt in and go... a fully tunable plate will need shims and the correct measuring points to see what you have, then the tesing comes into play.
if you have mechanical aptitude then you`ll be able to visualize the angle and adjacent angles...
I have used a 60 and 80 grit wheel in a grinder utilizing a square and 2ft level as a straight edge, following the angle/rise of the plate and relationship to "MY" hull and it came out perfect. I have 100% contact on all 4 mounting surface squarely... keep in mind tho, the mounting areas are NOT square, they ARE in the same "plane" to have the plate mount up flat!
04-13-2009, 06:10 PM #7
Jim's Performance is the man to send off for rideplate modifications. what you request you get back EXACT.
Don't forget to grind on the pump to allow clearance also when you add quite a bit of angle
04-13-2009, 07:01 PM #8
yes by simply removing some material from the rear bosses you will increase your speed
yes there is an additional speed gain available by sending it to a shop for maching (but the gain isn't actually as large as you would think)
there is just as big a gain to be had by setting things up properly - here are some dimensions I would suggest you strive for:
ensure the pump shoe is sitting up higher in the hull by the thickness of a nickel - put a straight edge on the hull in front of the shoe and make sure a nickel can slide under it (or almost slide under it) at the pump shoe
he showed the step or difference in height between the rideplate and the pump shoe
the idea is to get the front of the rideplate as close to be flush as possible with the pump shoe without it hanging down - this typically ends up being around .020 inch at the sides and a little more in the middle
to measure this you will need a metal straight edge and a digital set of calipers
put a straight edge on the pump shoe and extend it back past the end of the rideplate
measure the height from the straight edge to the edge (end) of the rideplate - this measurement is typically somewhere between .75 and 1 inch - a good target would be .95 inch
shim the trim tabs down at least .100 inch under all 8 bolts
04-13-2009, 07:14 PM #9
Thanks a lot for your replies and advice, I respect your opinions and Jim's work but I'm a DIY guy...
I'm looking for some input from those that have done it.
I'm mostly focused on finding that near 5 degree angle and then fine tune, not worried right now on a perfectly machined riding surface (I don't have acces to glass water).
04-13-2009, 07:23 PM #10
I was writing my previous reply when Phillip posted, thats exactly what I wanted to know...Thnx
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