06-07-2006, 01:18 AM #1
Hull & Rideplate "Hook" being opposites
I'm venturing over to the other side if ya don't mind :P
Ski is a 2005 Seadoo RXT
I put a ton of hours into my rideplate this week since i've been without my hull. Just looking for things to do! The hull on the ski at the very back last few inches has a downwards hook to it, but yet the rideplate has a pretty drastic inverse hook to it where it rises up in the last few inches...
now to further complicate it, Seadoo shims the rideplates down just a smidgen, like 1mm, maybe 2mm on these 4-tecs.
so the hull hooks down, the rideplate hooks UP, but then they shim the rideplate down, essentually negating the upward hook of the rideplate?
i just don't get it and i've been trying to visualize and understand the dynamics and physics of it in my mind.
the stock rideplate is just a little parabolic on the bottom flat point, and all the transitions and edges are bevelled and rounded. I may have totally screwed myself and gone the wrong direction with this, but i trued my rideplate pretty intensely and brought most of the angles to more of a point, altho not a rigid point bc there's just not that much material on the rideplate (and my arms are dead, i've been doing this for a few nights for hours)
should the rideplate be baby's ass smooth, or left to like a 200 grit or something? ... mine feels like glass right now, i can't even begin to tell you how many nights i spent block-sanding this aluminum rideplate and how many sheets of sandpaper i went thru and mostly getting the bottom two angles a little bit sharper.
I'm really looking for someone with water dynamics expertise that has been around this stuff for awhile to explain the inverse hooks of the hull and rideplate, and point me in the right direction with what i've screwed up or accomplished with my rideplate so far. My hull is currently at a shop being professionally trued. the chines are being sharpened and straightened, the whole hull has pretty much been grinded down and stripped to the fiberglass bc it was soooo screwed and flexed and wavy from the factory and my rough ocean riding and bad stress cracks everywhere. It's being re-sprayed with gelcote the end of this week.
so anyways, any input? here's some pics of what I did.
06-07-2006, 07:02 AM #2I'm really looking for someone with water dynamics expertise that has been around this stuff for awhile to explain the inverse hooks of the hull and rideplate, and point me in the right direction with what i've screwed up or accomplished with my rideplate so far
Shibbster, give Jim a call
jim or mike
36258 us 19 n. palm harbor, fl 34684
business # (727)786-1177
cell # (727)365-5132
06-07-2006, 11:50 AM #3
Thanks Billy... i spoke to jim just now on the phone. Of course no one wants to have anything to do with a Seadoo closed loop heat exchanging rideplate
But he more or less affirmed what i'm doing. He says as of right now my best and only option is sanding the hell out of it and getting it flat and sharp. It's tough bc there's not a ton of material on the rideplate to begin with so i can't go too crazy without sacrificing the strength of this component.
i'm gonna attack 1 or 2 more aspects of the rideplate and continue what i've been doing just to get it a little flatter and sharper. One more nights work of 5 hours or so on this sucker and i call it quits
better to block sand it by hand, or get a pneumatic orbital sander or something which will take it down quicker? ... i think it's better to block sand it lengthwise probably with the flow of water.
06-07-2006, 12:13 PM #4
O' Shibmaster, best to go front to back when sanding. You can do it by hand. I use a piece of wood (2 x 4)as long as my sheet of sandpaper, then staple the sides to the wood to hold the sandpaper secure, then front to back. The longer piece yields a more "true" surface than a body sanding block, and it goes quicker. Start with your low # paper and work your way up to 1200.
I also use an old vibrating sander I have. The surface area is about 7 1/2" by 3 1/2". You can use the sander to get the high gloss shine.
06-07-2006, 12:18 PM #5I also use an old vibrating sander I have. The surface area is about 7 1/2" by 3 1/2". You can use the sander to get the high gloss shine.
06-07-2006, 12:21 PM #6Originally Posted by RX951
06-07-2006, 01:37 PM #7
- Join Date
- Nov 2005
- Lafayette, La.
Are you guys sure you are using that vibrating thing just to work on the rideplate?
06-07-2006, 01:45 PM #8Originally Posted by elebouef
06-07-2006, 01:47 PM #9
06-07-2006, 03:43 PM #10
i have one of them vibrating Mouse sanders, need to go buy some replacement pads for it... they are contaminated with bodily fluids... i mean they are just worn out
that's exactly when i was doing tho, when i said block, i meant i was using a 1 x 3 piece of wood as long as the sandpaper would allow me... the outside angles and edges are hard because they are so narrow.
think i should true the plate until i remove the upward hook it has, or leave that in it?
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