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  1. #1
    DAGO RACING CREW 97GPSLEEPER's Avatar
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    INTERMEDIATE DRIVESHAFT GREASE

    I have never really had a routine when it comes to how often to grease the intermediate driveshaft and want to get some opinions. On my 97 GP1200 the grease zerk fitting is mounted on a piece of aluminum that is bolted at the rear of the motor near the #3 cylinder, almost two feet from the actual intermediate driveshaft housing. How often and how many pumps of grease should I use? Also, how does the grease actually reach the housing being the grease fitting is so far from the housing? Thanks for any input.


  2. #2
    mile_hi_1300's Avatar
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    Ya know I've been increasingly curious about this too. So after visiting CajunDude's site and nabbing the maint. manual I found there, I found the following about the "Intermediate Housing":
    Initial maint @ 10 hours - Grease Quantity 1.11 - 1.18 oz.
    @ 100 hours - Grease Quantity 0.2 - 0.27 oz.

  3. #3
    DAGO RACING CREW 97GPSLEEPER's Avatar
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    You would think that I would have a manual for my ski but I don't. It seems that a squirt of grease would be close to the 0.2 oz qty listed. I guess I will give it a squirt. Thanks.

  4. #4

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    I can offer what I did for my skis when it came time to grease I/housing.

    I did it in grams as its far more accurate a measure as there are 28grams in an ounce (close enough).

    The manual calls for between 31 and 33 grams at 10 hrs and 6-7.5 grams thereafter (100 hrs).

    Grease, for all intents and purposes, is not compressible. So a good quality grease gun, that has good seals, and for every FULL stroke of the handle it puts out a certain volume/weight of grease... called stroke volume.

    I grabbed a very accurate set of scales (to .1 of a gram) and measured the stroke volume of my good grease gun filled with the recommended Yamaha Grease.

    The volume came out as almost spot on 1 gram per stroke. To prove it even further I pumped 10 pumps onto scales for 10.5 grams.

    I then proceeded to pump 31 pumps into the Intermediate Housing nipple. I have removed the tube on previous late models (1x05FXHO and 2x06FXHO) and found it takes about 1/3rd of the total grease at 10 hr amount just to fill the rubber tube. It DOES not come with any grease in the tube from factory... but the bearing is prelubed to cover lubrication up to the 10hrs. The rest of the grease amount takes up the bearing/seal space and provides the right amount of lube for the bearing rollers/races.

    This is my third FXHO I've owned and greased this way. The 05 got 7 pumps at 100hrs ...it was traded at 140 hrs.

    Looking at the drawings it seems that the seal lips face the way to let grease go passed without dislodging the seals BUT .... as a precaution I pumped the grease in very slowly ... a count of about 7-8 seconds per stroke.

    This makes ya hand bloody tired But is the only way to accurately place the specified amount in by spec'd byYamaha... and with virtually no chance of seal movement IMHO.

    I've seen some dealers give a token "coupla pumps mate" she'll be right, ..it takes 7-10 odd just to fill the rubber tube.

    I've seen a few GPs (mates) come back from 10 hr service and there is a grease smear at the nipple .... we pull tube off at housing end and no grease for ages up the tube !!!

    There must be so many skis round with no grease in the bearings for ages and they dont seem to fail ?? Maybe thats a testament to the factory bearing and bearing makers installed grease in it.

    They turn quite fast at 7000 ....

    Regards
    Anthony

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  6. #5
    DAGO RACING CREW 97GPSLEEPER's Avatar
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    Wow, that was a very informative post. I think I am going to disconnect the tube and pump grease until I see grease coming out of the tube, then reconnect the tube and pump the right amount into the housing. Thanks.

  7. #6

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    97GPSleeper,

    If you dont see any grease at the end of the tube its pretty safe to assume it has never seen it !

    If you do see grease at the end you could place in the 100hr amount and be pretty sure its done I reckon.

    Regards
    Anthony

  8. #7

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    Also remember that the grease you are putting in is not to grease the bearing/s etc, but to form an extra barrier in front of the seals to help stop water ingress.
    I use a syringe to push the grease in, up until the point where I can feel it in the tube. Just pushing the syringe into the hose is enough, the pressure to push the syringe off the hose is smaller (if it isn't you need a rebuild anyway) than the pressure needed to push grease past the seals in the housing.
    Its safe, gives you the right amount and doesn't require any measuring etc.

  9. #8

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    The grease inserted in the coupling has a few purposes and if you think not lubricating the bearing rollers isnt one you are kidding yourself.

    Bearing lubrication (via grease as in tapered roller (trailer bearings) or ball bearing lubrication)) contrary to popular ideas is done by an oil film not the grease per se. The friction at the roller surface causes heat this heat melts some of the grease to an oil film which the roller runs on... providing a metal to metal barrier.

    The action of high speed bearings in grease by nature moves grease away from the rollers by the grease to oil (running) and the oil to grease (stopped and cooled) cycle. This is why Yamaha specify 7 grams in the housing every 100 hrs or annually (thats working cycling movement or grease drying from time and hardening).

    Seals are the same ... if the seal lip is deprived of lubrication it overheats or, in the main, cuts a seal lip mark into the shaft. We have all seen seal lip grooves in shafts ... this comes from lack of lubrication at the seal interface. Seals by their design can handle massive pressure against them from water or air ...take hydraulic rams for instance ... massive pressure ... rubber seals. They are designed that the harder the pressure against them the harder they seal (outward taper lips).

    If you want to keep greasing by syringe by all means do so ... but the grease pushing past a seal has bugger all to do with water ingress.

    Regards
    Anthony

  10. #9
    txgp1300r's Avatar
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    Dad is smart...good post...

  11. #10

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    Not in the case of our housing bearings (actually it is a should)

    To regrease bearings, and to reseal with this method is "crap" at the very best. You are wasting your time attempting to do so.
    You are better off pulling the housing/pump apart and correcting the factory intolerances by straigtening the driveshaft alignment, which come from the factory nicely misaligned.
    The bearings in our pumps should be very far from stressed. Although the factory doesn't always build them this way.

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