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    SC 2008 rebuild kit changes

    Just finished a SC rebuild and compared the new 08 kit with the stock 04 build up I removed. I found some interesting improvements on the shaft for a better overall clutch operation. How much better it lasts is anyones guess

    1) The shaft flange that mates with the clutch washer is thinner and areas where the new thicker steel identical clutch washers ride are improved, this thinner flange allows the gear centering to be maintained. The outer washer has the same dimension as the inner now rides on a smooth surface of the new shaft and not the narrower lockring splines. The steel clutch washers are .020" thicker than the ceramic. You can see worn 04 shaft splines on the pic below where the 04 clutch washer rode. The bearing rollers or needles ride on the smooth surface which still looks new in the pic which I stole off this site.

    2)The splined lock ring has been improved with partial wrenching flats only and specifically on one side, this allows the outer clutch washer to ride or bear on a full surface with no overhang. I needed a thinner wrench to hold the lock ring flats.

    3) The spacer between the two radial bearing inner races' is a different dimension and the 08 kit includes a thrust washer to make up the difference. The new spacer has inside chamfers at both ends. Not sure why the spacer dimension has changed and then been adjusted back with the included thrust washer to the 04 spec.

    It looks like this 08 stack up is mechanically better as the outer clutch washer now has full smooth bearing surface both on the shaft and against the new style splined lock ring. I got just over 100 in/lb clutch drag using the isoflex grease with no monkeying around.

    I found slight corrosion on the mount surfaces to the gearbox (PTO) and have applied mastinox instead of the recommended grease. It's zinc chromate paste intended for this type of non-ferris metal to prevent galvanic corrosion. The zinc chromate is sacrificial. It comes from the aerospace industry.

    The only special tools I needed to do the job were a ground down wrench and the seal holder 4-pin tool for under the compressor impeller. The bearing that installs onto the shaft next to the clutch end had a thick washer placed next to the inner race spacer (the washer under the impeller nut would work), then you can use a deep socket and inner race spacer, for the shaft to press into.

    To press the bearing in under the compressor I used an old bearing to contact the outer race between the press and the new bearing. If you heat the casing with a heat gun a bit it installs very easily.

    The shaft assy installed with a arbor press and a socket to support the inner race under the old flanged seal runner.

    For torquing the clutch shaft nut I needed an assistant. The impeller nut was easy using a vice on the old splined lockring. Because you may have a click style torque wrench that is only for right hand threads. (I have both dial and click styles) you may want an alternative.

    A 12 inch power bar and a spring scale rated for 20-40 pounds will do the trick. A thick tie rap works wonders attaching the spring scale to the 12 inch lever.

    Last edited by rotortiller; 04-22-2009 at 05:56 PM. Reason: added washer dimensional data

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