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Thread: 99 XPL Q's

  1. #1

    99 XPL Q's

    HI all,

    Recently purchased a 99 XP Limited. Have a few issues i need to look at tomorrow....

    Think the trottle cable is stuffed as its not returning properly so how dod i get it of the carby end? got it out of the trigger no worries but how about carby? any tips or tricks?

    Also I think the wear ring needs checking as sometimes it revs really high before it gets moving then it starts to hook up and i need to throttle off alot... How do i inspect the wear ring?

    Cheers,

    Chris


  2. #2
    flyin' the friendly skies airbornexp's Avatar
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    take a 10mm wrench and losen the nuts on the the bracket that holds it to the carb. rotate the throttle cable linkage forward and the little end will be easier to release from the assembly.

    for the wear ring. its just easier to pull the pump and gauge the space between prop and wear ring.

  3. #3
    can you give me a quick rundown of how to pull the pump...

    All ive done on the ski is a pump oil change with pump still on board

    literaly had it a week

  4. #4
    flyin' the friendly skies airbornexp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kidafa View Post
    can you give me a quick rundown of how to pull the pump...

    All ive done on the ski is a pump oil change with pump still on board

    literaly had it a week
    take off steering cable, trim arm, and 4 nuts holding pump on and pull like hell

  5. #5
    seadoodude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by airbornexp View Post
    take a 10mm wrench and losen the nuts on the the bracket that holds it to the carb. rotate the throttle cable linkage forward and the little end will be easier to release from the assembly.

    for the wear ring. its just easier to pull the pump and gauge the space between prop and wear ring.
    IMPORTANT: if you remove or adjust the throttle cable you will need to re-calibrate the oil injection pump cable so that the alignment marks on the body and cam line up.

    You don't have to pull the pump to check clearance of impeller to wear ring. You can get to it by just removing the nozzle. You will need to pull the pump to replace the wear ring and you will need an impeller removal tool.

  6. #6
    KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX's Avatar
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    '99+ 951s have a throttle position sensor built into the throttle cable. The TPS consists of one cable from the lever to the sensor and two cables out, one to the carbs, one to the oil pump.

    Thus, changes made at the carbs, idle speed, removing the cable, ect, DO NOT have any effect on the oil pump index.

    That said, if the cable pulls smooth, but does not return, the problem may well be the carbs themselves. Try pulling them open by the synch bar (this takes the cable out of it) and see if they will close.

    On the 155mm pumps you can often change the ring with the prop in place. That '99 may have a bronze pump and it may or may not have the screws in it. If not, that could be your problem since they tend to spin the wear ring (so they added the screws to some of the bronze pumps, as my boat's original was, and all of the plastic pumps have the screws).

    You may also want to look for any excessive play in the prop or damage to the prop. If none of that seems off you can also cavitate from a weak carbon seal accordian boot or a leaking ride plate or pump shoe.

  7. #7
    abarrassr07's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX View Post
    '99+ 951s have a throttle position sensor built into the throttle cable. The TPS consists of one cable from the lever to the sensor and two cables out, one to the carbs, one to the oil pump.

    Thus, changes made at the carbs, idle speed, removing the cable, ect, DO NOT have any effect on the oil pump index.

    That said, if the cable pulls smooth, but does not return, the problem may well be the carbs themselves. Try pulling them open by the synch bar (this takes the cable out of it) and see if they will close.

    On the 155mm pumps you can often change the ring with the prop in place. That '99 may have a bronze pump and it may or may not have the screws in it. If not, that could be your problem since they tend to spin the wear ring (so they added the screws to some of the bronze pumps, as my boat's original was, and all of the plastic pumps have the screws).

    You may also want to look for any excessive play in the prop or damage to the prop. If none of that seems off you can also cavitate from a weak carbon seal accordian boot or a leaking ride plate or pump shoe.



    when i changed my fuel lines and put the carbs back on mine, the line from the case was wedged between the wheel where the cable goes causing it to not go back in place, make sure your line is not rubbing on the throttle plate.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by seadoodude View Post
    if you remove or adjust the throttle cable you will need to re-calibrate the oil injection pump cable so that the alignment marks on the body and cam line up.
    I wont need to worry about this if my ski is pre mix will I?

    Quote Originally Posted by seadoodude View Post
    You don't have to pull the pump to check clearance of impeller to wear ring. You can get to it by just removing the nozzle. You will need to pull the pump to replace the wear ring and you will need an impeller removal tool.
    Can I just use the freezer method? aka pull pump throw it is the freezer and ring should come out easily?



    Quote Originally Posted by KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX View Post

    That said, if the cable pulls smooth, but does not return, the problem may well be the carbs themselves. Try pulling them open by the synch bar (this takes the cable out of it) and see if they will close.
    Yeah I tried this before i even looked at the cable .... and using the linkage the carbs open and shut perfectly.


    Quote Originally Posted by KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX View Post
    You may also want to look for any excessive play in the prop or damage to the prop. If none of that seems off you can also cavitate from a weak carbon seal accordian boot or a leaking ride plate or pump shoe.
    Hope the impeller is ok! Its a Skat Trak acording to previous owner. Ill take a heap of pics when i pull the pump and see how i go.

    So should i pull the entire pump or just the nozzle?

  9. #9
    KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX's Avatar
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    No worries on the oil pump if it is pre-mix.

    If the pump has screws on the top and bottom the ring will pretty much drop out when you remove them. If not, then you usually have to cut the old ring out (though, again, 155s without screws had a problem with the ring spinning so it may just pull out anyway). You can try the freezer deal (that is how you put the new ring in) but if it does not work, it is jab saw time.

    See what your prop to ring clearance is (no more than 1mm) before pulling the pump itself. The pump pretty much just comes off since it is not glued (or not supposed to be) like the X-4s are. It does not take all that much force once the four nuts are off the studs. The fun part is getting the shaft lined back up the the prop when you put it back on.

  10. #10
    Ok so just finished the job with the throttle cable... Ended up beign the TPS box full of gunk and needing a good clean and lube. Will be alot easier second time round. will post up some tips tonight or when i have a free moment for others.

    So just pull the nozzle and check the wear ring is whats happening once i have lunch Are their any specalist tools ill need to replace it once i purchase one if it is stuffed?

    Cheers,

    Chris

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