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  1. #1
    planiack's Avatar
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    Ignition an a 1997 SLTX

    The old ignition box on my 97 SLTX had part number 4060137. I ordered a new ignition box and it came with part number 4060180 on it. My dilemna came when hooking up the wires. The new ignition box had a Tan wire with a spade terminal on it and the old module has a Gray wire with a spade terminal. The gray wire went to the connection with the diode. The board is marked Gray but on the other side of the diode it goes to a tan connector. I do not know if I should hook up the tan wire where I unplugged the Gray wire. All the other wires were the correct colors.
    Last edited by planiack; 04-24-2009 at 01:42 PM. Reason: Wrong wire colors


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by planiack View Post
    The old ignition box on my 97 SLTX had part number 4060137.
    I ordered a new ignition box and it came with part number 4060180 on it.

    My dilemma came when hooking up the wires. The new ignition box had a tan wire with a spade terminal on it and the old module had a black wire. I do not know if I should hook up the tan wire where I unplugged the black wire.

    All the other wires were the correct colors.
    4060180 was stock on 1998-1999 SLX, SLXH and SLTX (1550 ohm secondary coil, I think)

    What is the secondary coil ohm measurement of the old and new coil packs?
    1240 or 1550 ohms?

    What are the primary coil wire colors you have?

    Per the 1999 SLX wiring diagram;
    Black/White (common)
    Black/Green PTO
    Black/Blue CEN
    Yellow/Brown MAG

  3. #3
    casey67's Avatar
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    Polaris did replace the 137 with the 180 according to Babbit's on line.

    I've never replaced one with the diode. The diode keeps electricity from flowing in both directions,only allows it to flow in 1 direction.I imagine they wanted to keep the CDI from searching for a ground through the sensors on the Tan circuit.

    The tan circuits put the PWC in limp mode when there is a problem.Hook the Tan wire where the Grey wire was,If it runs in limp mode,attach it directly to the Tan terminals,that is the way the 98 was wired( no diode)

  4. #4
    planiack's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    4060180 was stock on 1998-1999 SLX, SLXH and SLTX (1550 ohm secondary coil, I think)

    What is the secondary coil ohm measurement of the old and new coil packs?
    1240 or 1550 ohms?

    What are the primary coil wire colors you have?

    Per the 1999 SLX wiring diagram;
    Black/White (common)
    Black/Green PTO
    Black/Blue CEN
    Yellow/Brown MAG
    Those are the same primary coil wire colors on mine. I did not replace the coil. My coil has 1240 ohms. I did notice on the 1999 SLTX schematic that the coil primary is 1550 ohms. Now I am wondering if I will ruin the new CDI module with lower resistance on the coils because as we know that when resistance decreases, current increases.

  5. #5
    planiack's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by casey67 View Post
    Polaris did replace the 137 with the 180 according to Babbit's on line.

    I've never replaced one with the diode. The diode keeps electricity from flowing in both directions,only allows it to flow in 1 direction.I imagine they wanted to keep the CDI from searching for a ground through the sensors on the Tan circuit.

    The tan circuits put the PWC in limp mode when there is a problem.Hook the Tan wire where the Grey wire was,If it runs in limp mode,attach it directly to the Tan terminals,that is the way the 98 was wired( no diode)
    You are correct that a diode is a one way valve for electricity. They can also be used to rectify AC current. I did see that in 1998 they eliminated the diode. The way the diode is in the circuit, it will still allow a ground path through the temp sensor to allow limp mode. From what I can see is the tan wire also goes to the Gauges. The diode is set up to keep any electricity from the gauges from going back to the CDI Module. My bet is that the newer part number has the diode incorporated in the Module, thus eliminating the need for the external diode. Looks as though I will hook it up with the tan wire to where the gray was. I will let you know the outcome.

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Arrow CDI Tan or Gray wire connection for overheat temp sensor

    I misunderstood the original question

    The diode(s) in the Tan circuit are to keep the CDI and MFD from interfering with each other. Both CDI and MFD produce monitoring/sensing voltages for the overheat sensor, and watch for that voltage to get pulled down to near ground.

    When the temp sensor overheats and switches the Tan sensor wire to ground, the diode allows both the CDI and MFD to see the ground signal. The MFI then shows the HOT message and red warning LED, and the CDI limits RPM to 4500RPM.

    Without the diode, the CDI and MFD sensing voltages could interfere with each other, causing weird effects.

    As far as I can tell, you connect the Tan wire from the newer CDI to where the old CDI had a gray wire connected on the terminal board.

    To confirm that it is working as expected, check that RPM can rise above 4500, and that the MFD is not displaying HOT.

    Then use a bit of spare wire (or an alligator clip lead) to short the terminal for temp sensor Tan wire to ground. The HOT warning should appear, and RPM should be limited to about 4500RPM.

    The attached diagram is from a Virage TX terminal board, but the others work in a similar manner. The 'back' end of the diode 'arrowhead' is where the CDI Gray/Tan wire connects.
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  7. #7
    planiack's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    I misunderstood the original question

    The diode(s) in the Tan circuit are to keep the CDI and MFD from interfering with each other. Both CDI and MFD produce monitoring/sensing voltages for the overheat sensor, and watch for that voltage to get pulled down to near ground.

    When the temp sensor overheats and switches the Tan sensor wire to ground, the diode allows both the CDI and MFD to see the ground signal. The MFI then shows the HOT message and red warning LED, and the CDI limits RPM to 4500RPM.

    Without the diode, the CDI and MFD sensing voltages could interfere with each other, causing weird effects.



    As far as I can tell, you connect the Tan wire from the newer CDI to where the old CDI had a gray wire connected on the terminal board.

    To confirm that it is working as expected, check that RPM can rise above 4500, and that the MFD is not displaying HOT.

    Then use a bit of spare wire (or an alligator clip lead) to short the terminal for temp sensor Tan wire to ground. The HOT warning should appear, and RPM should be limited to about 4500RPM.

    The attached diagram is from a Virage TX terminal board, but the others work in a similar manner. The 'back' end of the diode 'arrowhead' is where the CDI Gray/Tan wire connects.

    I attached the Tan wire to where the gray wire was attached.
    My best guess is ( comes from years of working on electronics and automotive computers ) that the updated CDI Module has the diode circuit built into it. That is probably why the 98 and later models do not have the diode on the board, because it is inside the CDI Module.Well anyway, the ski is running perfectly again. I hope this helps someone out. Thanks for all the feedback.
    Mike.

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by planiack View Post
    ...I hope this helps someone out...
    Mike
    That is what GreenHulk is all about!

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