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  1. #1
    kraven's Avatar
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    Cool 2007 rxt down on power, ingested water

    Hey guys, could use some help here.

    I have a 2007 RXT that I usually ride Lake Michigan with.

    Mods:
    Rotax Racing Intercooler
    RR 9.5 lb. Supercharger Wheel
    RR cooler T'stat
    Metal Washers
    Friebe 4" Air Intake up front with Filter
    Riva 14/19 R prop with Stainless wear ring
    Rive Intake Grate
    2* Pump Wedge
    O.P.A.S. removed
    Water Strainer
    Exhaust by-pass tube (Stock hull exit)
    Stock E.C.U. and Stock Injectors.
    No. G.P.S. yet, use to run 8100-8200 R.P.M. and "run" away from my bud's Stage 1 RXP

    Here's the problem, I got into some shallow water, (YEAH, stupid on my part, and I know better ) ingested sand, overheated the exhaust, (exhaust temp sensor disconnected due to 1544 code warning buzzer coming on even after installing RXT-X water intake restrictor with larger orfice @ pump) melted the plastic exhaust flange (at the outlet) and by the time I got it back into shore it took on water. Got the water out but it ran like crap (35 m.p.h. top speed ) the entire 10 mile ride home.

    Got it home, changed the oil like 3 or 4 times (was a little milky but not real bad). Sounded responsive on the trailer, took it out on the Lake, still ran like a dog on the water (35 m.p.h.)

    Brought it to the dealer, compression was good, they found sand in the intercooler and waterbox, claims any little bit of water in the intake system will confuse the sensors that was it.???? They had the intercooler out, pressure tested it O.K.

    Back on the water runs way better BUT about equal to a stock boat.
    Barely runs 8000 r.p.m. and coming down from the littlest wave, r.p.m.s DROP REAL quick and S-L-O-W-L-Y climb back to 8000 r.p.m.

    Now that was the last trip out in October, ski's been in a heated garage all winter and have not touched it (been snowmobiling)

    Before I tear into this, any suggestions??
    Intercooler hose/tube fittings?? Best way to check?
    Anyway the Supercharger wheel could have been damaged??
    Seems like it's just down on power/boost????
    Can I put a gauge on to check boost and get a reading on the stand by winging the throttle or do I need to run this longer and under load??

    Any help would be appreciated, THANX in advance.


  2. #2
    The first two things id check would be that the oil isnt over full then supercharger slip.

  3. #3

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    +1 also you may want to change your plugs

  4. #4
    kraven's Avatar
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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by busa504 View Post
    +1 also you may want to change your plugs
    Thanx for the suggestions.

    I've done the plug change, oil was a little over, pumped some out.

    Still a dog.

    Have not checked the s/c slip recently but the dealer claims they checked it??

    What is the correct torque reading for the s/c clutch, metal washers, approx 35 hours, I remember reading something on here like 65-105 inch pounds???

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by kraven View Post
    Thanx for the suggestions.

    I've done the plug change, oil was a little over, pumped some out.

    Still a dog.

    Have not checked the s/c slip recently but the dealer claims they checked it??

    What is the correct torque reading for the s/c clutch, metal washers, approx 35 hours, I remember reading something on here like 65-105 inch pounds???
    not sure of that...but take off the intake to the sc and see if you can turn the impeller with your fingers. if you can its your sc that is slipping

  6. #6
    kraven's Avatar
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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by busa504 View Post
    not sure of that...but take off the intake to the sc and see if you can turn the impeller with your fingers. if you can its your sc that is slipping
    I did the "finger test" can't turn the impeller.

    Also drained the fuel tank and filled it up with fresh fuel.

    Sounds "real responsive" blippin' the throttle on the trailer, just a dog under load.

    How about the boost pressure, if I put a gauge on it, can I expect to see approx 9 p.s.i. by blippin the throttle on the trailer, or do I need to run it under load????

    Regarding intake/boost pressure leaks to and from the intercooler, what's the best way to diagnose?? Soapy water sprayed on the fittings??

    Open for suggestions.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by kraven View Post
    I did the "finger test" can't turn the impeller.

    Also drained the fuel tank and filled it up with fresh fuel.

    Sounds "real responsive" blippin' the throttle on the trailer, just a dog under load.

    How about the boost pressure, if I put a gauge on it, can I expect to see approx 9 p.s.i. by blippin the throttle on the trailer, or do I need to run it under load????

    Regarding intake/boost pressure leaks to and from the intercooler, what's the best way to diagnose?? Soapy water sprayed on the fittings??

    Open for suggestions.
    you need to test boost readings at wot (wide open throttle) and yes soapy water is the best way to find leaks around your fittings....if the leak is to big though it wont make a bubble it just blows it around so you need to look at it good i used a mirror to look at the back and under sides where i couldnt see good to check for leaks on mine. did you even check the wear ring,impeller and grate for damage?

  8. #8
    mrbtd's Avatar
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    Have you checked the wear ring and prop ?

  9. #9
    kraven's Avatar
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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by mrbtd View Post
    Have you checked the wear ring and prop ?
    Prop & wear ring have less than 10 hours (relatively new if that matters) used to run a 14/17 R that was banging the rev limiter.

    The problem must be related to the water ingestion and/or the dealer removing and installing the intercooler. Prior to that it ran like a Cheetah on Cocaine.

    Is it possible that there was premature wear, I'll check, how much blade to housing clearance is spec, I would hope to think less than .010" ????

    I remember something like .006" on my PRO 785 years ago. If someone could post some feedback on the end clearance I'll check it.

    THANX in advance.

  10. #10
    kraven's Avatar
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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by busa504 View Post
    you need to test boost readings at wot (wide open throttle) and yes soapy water is the best way to find leaks around your fittings....if the leak is to big though it wont make a bubble it just blows it around so you need to look at it good i used a mirror to look at the back and under sides where i couldnt see good to check for leaks on mine. did you even check the wear ring,impeller and grate for damage?
    Yes I crawled under the ski, nothing sucked up into the prop, NO visible signs of damage.

    With respect to holding it WIDE OPEN THROTTLE, approximately how long?? Will 2 + seconds give a sufficient realistic reading???

    Reason I'm asking/reluctant to take it out on the water, I'm about 1 month away from "reasonable water temps/conditions and would rather spend the time trying to diagnose the problem in my garage ( if possible) rather that doing the 1+ hour ride to the lake & back each time.

    I'll try the soapy water diagnostic test, should I just let it idle or should I hook the hose to it and blip the throttle a bit??? Gotcha on the mirrors.

    Thanx

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