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  1. #1
    Jmski333's Avatar
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    Ultra 150, I have a problem.

    Well i went out for the second time this season, everything was running great and the lake was almost flat. I was riding and than i hear something break, rpm's went up and ski slowed down. this is what happened, my front engine mount came loose and my engine shifted which shattered that aluminum piece connecting the engine to the outdrive and the little plastic cover went with it to. my engine runs fine so luckily there is no damage to that.

    My reason for the thread is im wondering:
    what sort of work is it going to take to fix this?
    how much $ am i lookin at?
    and how serious this is?

    sorry about the blurry pictures i took them on my phone. there should be a few more pieces of that alluminum in the hull somewhere.
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  2. #2
    DPeteLand PeteSkeet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jmski333 View Post
    Well i went out for the second time this season, everything was running great and the lake was almost flat. I was riding and than i hear something break, rpm's went up and ski slowed down. this is what happened, my front engine mount came loose and my engine shifted which shattered that aluminum piece connecting the engine to the outdrive and the little plastic cover went with it to. my engine runs fine so luckily there is no damage to that.

    My reason for the thread is im wondering:
    what sort of work is it going to take to fix this?
    how much $ am i lookin at?
    and how serious this is?

    sorry about the blurry pictures i took them on my phone. there should be a few more pieces of that alluminum in the hull somewhere.

    your gunna need a new bottom end drive shaft... its possible to do... not much skill is needed besides some knowledge of what your doing.. basically *in short* remove the motor... put it on a bench remove the lower end... replace the drive shaft place a new gasket....piece the motor together... drop back in.. AND MAKE SURE THOSE MOUNTS ARE TIGHT when you are bolting this back in... you dont wanna have to do it again...



    sorry to hear that happened to you.... hope that my reply helps Good luck... not that you will really need it.

  3. #3
    DPeteLand PeteSkeet's Avatar
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    OH! and as you do this its a good chance to replace piston rings!

  4. #4
    Jmski333's Avatar
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    that is very useful information, i was hoping it would of been a little easier than that. but i appreciate it. how much one of these drives shafts cost? is my motor mount shot as well?

  5. #5
    Jmski333's Avatar
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    i found this schematic online, it shows the coupling as being detached. can this be done without removing the lower end? sorry i cant get the picture any bigger. the website i found it was

    http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmot...1-1999/o/m4353
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  6. #6
    btldigger's Avatar
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    For got to mention in that other thread. I wouldnt worry about that cover. I take them off mine and leave them off.

  7. #7
    Jmski333's Avatar
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    ill take your coupling cover off of your hands. i thought for sure i was going to get more reply's on greenhulk. i guess not.

  8. #8
    take off your jet pump, push back the drive shaft for more room.
    now remove a spark plug, preferably the rear one and feed some rope in there to lock the piston, being carefull not to put the rope into the exhaust port, then with some sort of plumbing tool grab the broken bit still on the crank and undo it, it wont be easy.
    Once off clean and dry the threads and put some red locktite on the threads and crew on the replcement coupler on, tighten to spec, replace all your engine mounts and refit your pump

  9. #9
    Jmski333's Avatar
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    thanks for the very direct instructions. will torquing on the coupler with having the rope in the cylinder be harmfull to the crankshaft or anything connected to it? i don't want to bend anything

  10. #10

    Remove coupler

    I would have thought you may hacve to remove the casing and watch for the oil (200ml) Once off you can then hold onto the 14mm bolt and maybe get the wrench on the remains of the coupler to remove it.

    To put the new one on put a pry bar through the coupler to lock it in place and re torque the bolt to 126 n/m engine back in job done.
    Last edited by Axlef1123; 05-04-2009 at 04:53 PM. Reason: trying to add a picture !!!

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