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  1. #1

    Exclamation '99 SLH 700 Issue!

    So I am new to the forum but have already gotten a feel for how useful it is. I have just inherited our family's '99 SLH and was told (by my father) that it would probably need some work. It did run the last time it was on the water, but that has been probably 4-5 years ago. He put stabilizer in the tank while it was put up but I do not know if he ran it through or if he did anything else.

    So now here I am trying to get this thing running again. The engine was completely rebuilt not long before the last time it was on the water. I have checked for spark (good), checked pressure (110-120 per cylinder: equal) and I think we have good air/fuel flow. The gasoline may be bad, but I have tried some fresh gas and I have sprayed starter fluid into the carb as well as a little squirt in the cylinder. I am getting NO combustion.

    If anyone can offer some insight into what to check next I would appreciate it.

    Thanks in advance.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk

    Click here for the Service manual, and other useful info.

    What condition is the battery?
    Battery must deliver over 10.5 volts (measured at the battery posts) while the engine is cranking, with the spark plugs in place. A weak battery is probably the number one cause of weak/no spark, no start.

    If it has sat for several years, you really should remove, dis-assemble, clean and rebuild those carbs. It is too easy for a gummed up or dirty carb to destroy a piston within minutes of riding it.

    If the battery really is good, and you have a solid blue spark during cranking, we can move on to other checks.

    Make sure the engine isn't full of liquid oil or fuel. When you crank with the spark plugs out, do you see any liquid spray out the plug holes?

  3. #3
    The following rebuilt kit appears to be what I need. Can you please verify and let me know if I need one or two of these kits. Thank you.

    http://www.sbtontheweb.com/Merchant2...oduct_Count=14

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NCITGuy View Post
    ...I have sprayed starter fluid into the carb as well as a little squirt in the cylinder. I am getting NO combustion...
    Don't use starter fluid on these 2-stroke engines. It can cause an over-rev condition if it does start, and tends to strip the oil from the cylinder walls and bearings, which isn't good.

    If it doesn't light up even with starter fluid, check the compression again, and check for accumulated fluids in the crankcase. Starter fluid only needs compression to light off, so the engine should have at least started, even without spark.

  5. #5
    Any advice on the carb rebuild kit. I will discontinue using starter fluid. Will check the engine for fluid and such next. Also could not hurt to take a look at the heads and see how things look...since it was rebuilt (maybe).

    I will also recheck the compression. The method I used before is as follows:

    1- remove plugs
    2- ground wires on grounding posts
    3- attach gauge
    4- choke completely open, throttle completely open
    5- turn over for 3-5 seconds

    first time results: 110/110

    Thanks for the help.

  6. #6
    seaobin's Avatar
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    Compression should be fine since they are the same.

    You didnt answer the question about the battery. Is it new and fully charged?

    Before you buy the rebuild kit, oven the carbs and see what you need. You might only need a good cleaning.

    4-5 years idle, I would replace the fuel lines and oil lines as well

  7. #7
    OK. So here is what we've gotten so far. Took carbs and intake manifold off. Carbs look like new and reeds look good. There was very, very little residue or grit in the manifold. Everything was very clean with exception of a little fuel which should be there after trying to start her.

    We took the piston head off and the cylinder and piston were smooth as silk. There was some black burn on the top of the piston (which indicates a lean burn???).

    We took the fuel/oil lines off and checked them and they were clean as well.

    We are still in the process of checking all of the lines to ensure proper fuel, oil and air flow.

    Is there anything else I should definitely check before I try to start her again? I have replaced the spark plugs, do I need to do any adjustments to the carbs?

    On an additional note, I did unhook the stop switch and attempt to start her early on.

    Thanks again for the help.

  8. #8
    OK, so here is what we have now. I have reassembled and tried again. I still have no combustion.

    Compression is 115/115.

    When testing (with one plug in at a time and grounded on the block) the front plug is getting great spark but the rear plug is not getting much, if any, at all. Seems like it should still fire since it has good spark on one cylinder even though it would run like crap.

    What else should I check?

    I am going to go verify that fuel/oil are flowing to the carbs.

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Arrow Difference between original and Ignition Update Kit spark firing on twin engines

    Quote Originally Posted by NCITGuy View Post
    ...When testing (with one plug in at a time and grounded on the block) the front plug is getting great spark but the rear plug is not getting much, if any, at all. Seems like it should still fire since it has good spark on one cylinder even though it would run like crap...
    Do you have the original CDI and ignition coil, or the Ignition System Update Kit version?

    The original Polaris two cylinder ignition system delivers sequential firing, each cylinder is fired independent of the other, triggered by the Hall Effect sensor in the flywheel stator.

    When the Ignition System Update Kit is installed, the Polaris domestic two cylinder engines will fire both spark plugs together, every time. This is why the primary coil connections to the CDI are different.

    It also means that it is important to ground the alternate spark plug wire when checking for spark, since the system uses the engine block as the electrical loop between the two ends of the ignition coil secondary.

    The Ignition Update Kit was issued in response to reliability issues with the original factory parts. If you still have the original parts, and you find that the Ignition coil, CDI, or stator has failed, then you should install the Update Kit, rather than just replacing the failed part with another of the same part number.

    The two spark plugs and ignition coil (there is only one) are in series (an electrical loop) - that means the spark voltage goes through one spark plug to the engine block, then continues through the other spark plug back to the coil.

    Both spark plugs must be grounded to the engine block, and connected to the spark wires, in order for either spark plug to fire properly.

    BTW, make sure you are using the correct part number spark plugs - they must be the resistor type.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by K447; 05-11-2009 at 10:16 PM. Reason: Added clarification: Difference between original and Ignition Update Kit spark firing on twin engines

  10. #10
    I do not have the update kit. Where can I purchase one?

    Additionally, if I am getting spark could it be another part of that system that has failed and would warrant me installing the update kit?

    I have compression (115/115), fuel, air and spark. I see no reason why it will not fire up.

    Let me know on the update kit.

    Thanks again.

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