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Thread: Carb balacing

  1. #1

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    Carb balacing

    Hi all not noticed any think about carb balancing on multi carb jet skis, as balancing can make a big differance, as on high pro bikes. thinking of drilling an thread genesis carb manifold, looked at this
    http://www.maintenanceresources.com/...inebalance.htm

    www.carbtune.com

    any views


  2. #2
    casey67's Avatar
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    The major thing to check is the throttle plate opening,it is adjustable.
    Then when you run it,carbs do need to be adjusted according to your piston wash/plug check.That will change according to your engine condition (IE;compression,leaks)

  3. #3
    planiack's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by justfun View Post
    Hi all not noticed any think about carb balancing on multi carb jet skis, as balancing can make a big differance, as on high pro bikes. thinking of drilling an thread genesis carb manifold, looked at this
    http://www.maintenanceresources.com/...inebalance.htm

    www.carbtune.com

    any views
    I read the cylinder balance article and agree with most of it. Near the bottom of the article under "Preliminary tasks" number 4, this is what is written.

    Load the engine as near as possible to 100% speed and torque. If an engine begins to detonate, unload the engine.
    NEVER PERMIT AN ENGINE TO DETONATE!!!!! Detonation is usually caused by one or more cylinders not carrying their share of the load. It is also important to remember detonation is the symptom of the problem. The real problem is somewhere else.

    It is stated that detonation is usually caused by one or more cylinders not carrying their share of the load. That is incorrect. Detonation is simply caused by the air/fuel mixture igniting before the spark plug fires. The result is less power in the affected cylinder(s). Thus, the result of detonation is the affected cylinders not carrying there share of the load. Detonation can be caused by many things including but not limited to, to low of an octane fuel, compression to high, carbon build up in combustion area (which increases compression and can create a "hot" spot which may ignite the air/fuel mixture prematurely).

  4. #4
    Rasta Mon Condoms We Be Jammin!!!!! TxVirageTx's Avatar
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    sync

    2 strokes intake tracts react differently than 4 stroke,lots of pulsing inside the 2 stroke which would make it very hard to run the ski and actually see any type of a steady reading.with the carbs off,i run the front or mag carb idle screw to the point where i can see the first wall port,eyeing down the blade i adjust until the blade just uncovers the entire port hole,then i adjust the cen carb to the same,then the pto or end cylinder.this has always worked just fine for me.some guys will use a piece of silver solder and insert between the blade and wall.the object being to get all three pieces to drop at the same time

  5. #5

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    hi if all the cylinders sucked the same. which is imposable, then that would be fine by basic adjustment. but say 3 separate engines all with different sucking pressures, by variations of nature of each indervigel engine. by adjusting each carb to suck same pressures through opening and closing the butterflys .balancing. giving smoother tick over, engine stresses more uniformed,and opening throttle better acceleration, 2/3/4 and 6 cylinder bikes and race engines have this setup for the last 34 years. by setting up carbs with vacuim gauages.


    ps the carbs are not off and filter is on, engine just runs over tick over and adjustment is made to each carb butterfly to match all 3 carbs

    threaded stems are tempery screwed in each inlet manifold. and each is connected to its own vacuim gauge

    air screws are usually set as normal

  6. #6
    planiack's Avatar
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    A flow meter is the best way to sync carbs.

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