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  1. #1

    Things to check on 2nd hand purchased ski...?

    Hi all,

    Well recently Ive purchased a 98 or 99 cant remember (haha need to check original post that will be correct) or how can i tell? XP limited. Its 2nd hand so for the past 3 or 4 weeks that Its been in my hands ive been madly going over bits and pieces to make sure its not going to die on me in the middle of the ocean, oh as well as getting out on it as much as I can.

    So far I've checked the following:

    • Replaced Wear ring & inspect impeller
    • Replace Pump oil (previous oil in VGC )
    • Lube throttle cable and TP Sensor and choke cable
    • Remove and clean/rebuild RAVE valves - Did these tonight and they were FILTHY!!!!
    • Run a fuel conditioner in one tank with a moisture absorbing ability
    • Ordered a bilge pump as stocker has been pulled out :S

    I also plan to do the following:

    • Replace fuel lines and fuel filter (what should I use? and how much?)
    • Compression test (rough figure would be good?)
    • Rebuild carbys?
    Btw its running on premix not direct injection. Are their anythings I've missed you recomend? Ive been flushing it after every use even when its in fresh water and giving the engine a mist of CRC after its washed.

    Im really enjoying this new hobby and this forum is very helpfull especially one member whose user name slips me who ill thank in next post. EDIT: KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX Has been verry helpfull in previous topics cheers mate. If you lived here in Aus. id by ya a beer or three

    Cheers,


    Chris


  2. #2
    KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX's Avatar
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    No problem man.

    The production year is the last two digits of the HIN (the black plate on the back, or on the sticker on the lower hull rear if no one ever took it off). It will start ZZN and end in either 98 or 99, of course.

    The '98s had a different color scheme to the graphics (not as pretty as '99, IMO, but a lot of guys like them). The drive and ignition system is different too (again, '99 is better in most respects, though using an aftermarket pipe is easier on the '98.

    I have some more but have to get to work.

  3. #3
    KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX's Avatar
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    Make sure you use Mikuni rebuild kits for the carbs. You can save money, but the quality really drops off.

    For fuel line I used Fuel Injection line off the role from an auto parts store. You will need 5/16 and 1/4 inch line. I do not remember how much of each, but you can get an idea from what is on the boat (do this without taking it apart, though keeping what goes where right is not all that hard). You will need to get some new clamps too as the old ones are all oetiker clamps and can not be re-used.

    The easy way to do the fuel lines is to take the seat loose at the pivots and it will swivel out of the way. Pull the rubber plug out of the hole and you will see the baffle and lines at the top of the tank. If you take the knob and trim off the fuel valve you can push the valve into the hull and pull it out of the hole in the top. You may need to cut some zip ties, but this makes it super easy to remove the old lines and run new ones.

    You will need to cut the old clamps off, though sometimes the lines will just pull off with the clamp still on it. Get a pair of wire cutters like they use on fencing, the type with the jaws perpandicular to the handle. Be carefull not to twist as you cut the clamp as this can break the nipple off with the hose (not good).

    The baffle is marke as to what hose is where and the fuel valve and filter are rather obvious so like I said, it is hard to mess the lines up.

    The trick on doing the carbs is to take care when doing the little check valves in the fuel pump (a real PITA). Also, get one of those impact screwdrivers. This will keep you safe from the worst part of carb work which is the stripped out phillips head screw.

    As to the compression, 130 on up is good and you are mainly looking for them to be even (on a car 10% variation is the limit but I would say that more than 5% warrants a closer look on a 947).

  4. #4
    Ok so turns out its a '99

    Where should I buy the rebuild kits from?

    How hard is rebuilidng them? Ive done a 2 stroke motorcross bike carb before that was easy as but their alot easier to get off the bike that these look to get off and out of the ski.

    Some links to carb kits would be sweet

  5. #5
    KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX's Avatar
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    The carbs are not that bad once you get the air box out. The XPL is the easiest of the 951 boats to work on by far.

    Once you take the choke cable off and unbolt the carbs you have enough room to bring the carbs up and forward around the pipe. Lay them on a towel or something like that and you can pull the fuel lines and throttle cable at your leasure.

    You can try these folks on the carb kits. Anywhere around 50 bucks a kit is not bad at all.

    http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...roducts_id=961

    That link is on this site.

  6. #6
    So you would pull them out and leave the fuel lines connected then label them before you pull them off the carbs?

    Also another thing. The rear pipe that joins the water box to the exhaust box on the other side (at the back sort of like a U shape) I cant seem to position it so it doesnt have a small kink in it.. is this an issue? its not shut over its just it could probably be a few cm more open in one section...

  7. #7
    KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX's Avatar
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    You will not have a problem keeping the fuel lines straight. Once you get a close look at it you will know what I mean. The inlet hose is 5/16 and the outlet and pulse line are 1/4 and impossible to mix up once you see them. The reason you leave them connected until you can pull the carbs up onto the engine is so you can get to the danged things. On my '02 GTX there is not enough slack in the fuel line and throttle cable to do this and it sucks.

    On that crossover hose, if it is not soft anywhere I would not worry about it. It is going into a restrictive resonator there so a little back up (if there even is any) in that hose is not going to matter.

  8. #8
    Purchased two new plugs for the Ski today as I was getting some more 2 stroke mix. Got NGK BR8ES

    Just wondering if I should do the lines and carby's at the same time or if i could to the lines wait a bit then do carbys?

    Trying to not hit the pocket to hard at once as i also run a turbo charged import car, motorcross bike and a downhill race bike.... And im only 19 so I dont have heaps of $$$ to throw around the place thus i do all my own mechanical work on everything..

  9. #9
    any one got an answer to that ^

  10. #10
    Best to do the lines first and the carbs later if you can't do them at the same time... The original lines in many Seadoos tend to degrade over time so by replacing the fuel line you will stop crap flowing to the carbs. Thereafter, when you do the carbs, the filters in them will be cleaned and your system should remain that way...

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