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  1. #1
    arsxlt's Avatar
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    96 SLT700 No Spark. NEED HELP QUICK

    Hello, I have a 96 slt 700. It ran fine about 2 weeks ago and then we put a charger on it because the battery went dead. Well it turns out the bilge pump was stuck on and thats why the battery went dead. So the charger was on it for about 3hrs when we tried to start it again. Everything was hot the battery, CDI box, Bilge pump everything. I got a new battery and bilge pump and now NO SPARK. Im lost... Could the CDI box be bad? Maybee the stator or the coil? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Is there any way to test these things. I opened the CDI box and nothing looks fried. Also no power to the bilge pump wires now either. With the key in there is no power to it, The fuse is still good. Thanks


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk

    Click here for the Service Manuals, and other useful info.

    There are several possibilities;

    First question: What is the part number on your CDI?
    Look on both front and back, there may be a second number handwritten in yellow or white.

    Check the stator coil ohms. If you have the original CDI, then use the numbers from the 1996 service manual.

    If you have the Updated Ignition Kit installed, then you must use the stator checks from the 2000 or 2001 service manuals.

    Check the voltage on the Orange wire in the Electrical box. Should be zero volts with engine off, and over 10.5 volts when engine is cranking.

    If the stator coils are good, then you may have fried the LR voltage regulator module. Among other things, the LR module switches on power to the Orange wire when the engine starts rotating.

    If your CDI is connected to the Orange wire (which it should be per Service Bulletin PWC-00-05), then if the LR module has failed, the CDI will not get power, and you will have no spark.
    Last edited by K447; 05-19-2009 at 10:21 PM.

  3. #3
    casey67's Avatar
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    Welcome to Green Hulk.
    With a weak battery,the bilge pump will stay running.It's good you replaced the battery.
    The bilge gets power from the L-R when running(like K explained)
    I assume it cranks over now,but no spark?

    What is you're voltage to the Red/ purple stripe wire going to the CDI when cronking?(the wire goes from 1 half of Ebox to other half,it could get pulled off when opening box.)
    Make sure the Black/yellow stripe wire is not grounded (it also could get pulled off when opening E-box) It is the wire that tells the CDI to stop working.

  4. #4
    arsxlt's Avatar
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    Its the original CDI. My dad has owned it since 97. The orange wire has 0 off and 12.65 when I push the ignition switch. All of the wires coming from the LR modual seem to have power. The fuel guage does not work but the LR modual sends it 5v is that correct? I even disconnected the kill switch and nothing changed unless i did it wrong. I disconnected the BLK/Y wire. All this help is greatly appreciated.

  5. #5
    arsxlt's Avatar
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    Also exactly why would the bilge pump be on if it only gets power if the motor is turning?

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by arsxlt View Post
    Hello, I have a 96 slt 700. It ran fine about 2 weeks ago and then we put a charger on it because the battery went dead.

    Well it turns out the bilge pump was stuck on and that's why the battery went dead.

    So the charger was on it for about 3hrs when we tried to start it again.

    Everything was hot the battery, CDI box, Bilge pump everything.

    I got a new battery and bilge pump and now NO SPARK.

    ....no power to the bilge pump wires now either. With the key in there is no power to it, The fuse is still good...
    Quote Originally Posted by arsxlt View Post
    The orange wire has 0 off and 12.65 when I push the ignition switch.
    All of the wires coming from the LR module seem to have power
    Quote Originally Posted by arsxlt View Post
    Also exactly why would the bilge pump be on if it only gets power if the motor is turning?
    There is no reason for anything (other than possibly the battery) to get 'hot' when a charger is connected.

    I am wondering if perhaps the charger was connected backwards, or the battery was hooked up backwards, or something else is going on.

    Is the bilge pump running all the time, only when the engine is cranking, or not running at all?

    Were both clamps from the charger connected directly to the battery posts, or to something else (engine block)?

    Was this an automotive charger?
    How many Amps?

  7. #7
    arsxlt's Avatar
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    It was a battery tender that was hard wired. Been there for a long time. All you had to do was plug a cord into the ski itself. Was mounted above the electrical box. 1.5amps.
    Its a new bilge pump. It doesnt run as there is no water in there but the orange wire does get 12+ volts when the engine is cranking.
    Will the LR modual go out intermittently?

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by arsxlt View Post
    ...Its a new bilge pump. It doesnt run as there is no water in there but the orange wire does get 12+ volts when the engine is cranking.

    Will the LR module go out intermittently?
    The bilge pump should be running any time it has power. You can feel it vibrate slightly, even with no water in the bilge.

    The Rule bilge pumps (you did install another Rule pump) are rated for continuous operation without water. There is no float switch for the bilge pump - it runs whenever the engine is running.

    The LR module could fail intermittently, but that doesn't seem to be the common way for them to fail.

    Do you have a bilge button on the handlebar?
    If you hold the bilge button down, the bilge pump should run. While holding the bilge button, try starting the engine. This by-passes the LR module, and feeds power directly to the Orange wires.

    If it starts, then the LR module is likely the problem. Double check that the LR module is properly grounded,and the Yellow wire is hooked up properly. If it still doesn't work, then the LR module may need replacing.

    When it starts, does the Tachometer work on the digital display?

  9. #9
    arsxlt's Avatar
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    It is an SLT700 so it has no bilge button or digital display. Only a fuel guage that doesnt work. And yes it was replaced with another rule pump. When the pump was stuck on before the lanyard was not even in the ski. So technically there should have been no power correct?

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by arsxlt View Post
    It is an SLT700 so it has no bilge button or digital display. Only a fuel gauge that doesn't work.

    And yes it was replaced with another rule pump.

    When the pump was stuck on before the lanyard was not even in the ski. So technically there should have been no power correct?
    Correct - with engine off, bilge pump should not be running, Orange wire should have zero volts.

    Where does the Red/Purple wire from the CDI module go?
    To other Red/Purple wires, or to Orange?

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