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  1. #1

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    Engine free revs untill its gets up to plane

    This is the first ride of the year after being stored this winter and I am having a issue. The ski is a 97 GSX 787. When I punch the throttle the engine will rev up real high and then eventually get up to normal speed. It almost feels like when something is caught in the grate or when water is forced in the grate (like getting right behind another jetski and hitting the throttle). Any ideas? I am almost sure it didnt do this before I winterized it. It feels like a pump or impeller problem as the engine revs normal. Ski is stock with only a skat trak impeller replaced mid summer last year.


  2. #2
    PEST!'s Avatar
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    The wear ring is probably worn or gone. Look in the nozzle with a flashlight ad check the clearance between the end of the blade and the wear ring. Spec is no more than .040.

  3. #3

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    I replaced the wear ring when I replaced the impeller but I will recheck the clearance. Any other ideas? I prolly only put about 4 hours on the new wear ring.

  4. #4
    flyin' the friendly skies airbornexp's Avatar
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    splines could possibly be stripped in the impeller or PTO

  5. #5
    im interested in where this goes too... some times my 99xpl does this. replaced wearing and its deff improved it.

    Sometimes i find playing with the vts makes it hook up better when you find a sweet spot. eg. with a passenger i find it gets up on the plane quickest with the nose down but once on plane bring the nose up.

  6. #6
    PEST!'s Avatar
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    When did you change it and Why do you think it cant get ruined from one ride. Did you seal the pump to the hull you know with a foam seal ring they put on between the pump and the hull or at least some silicone.

  7. #7

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    Mar 2009
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    I did not put a foam ring or silicone around the pump when I put it back on. I just bolted it back up to the hull I didnt even relize I had to do that. Also my PTO grease boot has a small tear in it that causes it to loose grease every ride but I grease it everytime I go out. I am gonna change it but dont feel like talkin out the drive shaft to do it. So you think not sealing the pump is my problem? Thanks for the replies guys.

  8. #8
    KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX's Avatar
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    Those '97s came with the o-ring on the drive shaft. If that collar that rides on the carbon seal is pushing too far forward it will suck air there (and leak? I had a weak seal boot that was letting water in but had no slippage ???).

    Anyway, I know the '97 GS family had the o-ring and it can be a problem. It is a simple fix and you do not have to remove the shaft. First, buy a clip from the dealer that they all came with after like '98 ('99 had the clip). All you do is pull the collar back towards the seal until you see the o-ring. Have a knife ready and cut that POS off the shaft. Then you just pop the clip on and let the collar go and you are done.

    Besides the pump leaking at the pump shoe you could also have a leak around the ride plate.

  9. #9
    PEST!'s Avatar
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    The Impeller boot inst a life ending issue in fact I see lots of boats with no grease ever in the spline. It will accelerate the wear it wont kill it. But a little silicone around the front edge of the wear ring will go a long way. Not to much as it will make it tough to remove the pump. The Foam ring is better if you want to be able to remove the pump easier. Like Capn KRUNCH is saying the shoe could leak and also the carbon seal ring can move and leak. The important thing is to eliminate as much air in front of the pump as possible.

  10. #10
    KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX's Avatar
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    Pest has a point.

    If I had that boat I would check the drive shaft for that o-ring and replace with a clip. Pull the pump and get the neoprene seal to put on when you install it. While the pump is off unbolt the ride plate and pop it off (it may fall off, I have seen this, when unbolted but normaly it takes a a bottle jack with a couple of pieces of wood to protect the ride plate and the hull). Clean that entire area up with a wire brush on a drill (do not worry about the gelcoat, the scratches will not matter) as well as the ride plate.

    With the plate still off take put sealer on every seam of the pump shoe (I am not a big fan of pulling the pump shoe and have never had to in order to seal one). Use "The Right Stuff" it is some bad crap and expensive, but one can should do and you can get it from Autozone or Napa for sure. Wear latex gloves and since you need to push it in with your fingers and you do not want this stuff on your hands.

    Once the shoe is sealed good use the sealer on the ride plate too. You may need to look at a manual to make sure you are getting the key areas. You can also go by where the old sealer was but make sure you are getting all the gaps. Put some regular silicone on the bolt threads and bolt the plate back up tightening in a cross pattern to the reccomended torque. Then go back with the TRS and fill in the gaps around the perimeter of the ride plate.

    Put the neoprene seal on the pump shoe (it has an adhesive backing) and install your pump. Make sure and varify the wear ring clearence. I had a ring that was less than a year old go bad on my XPL. It had no visible damage at all but the boat would rev up to 3000 in the water and would not move. Pulled it out and it was about 1.5mm all the way around the prop.

    Also, while the pump is out make sure the prop has no play. A bad thrust bearing will let the prop and shaft walk forward out of the pump and it will slip like a son of a gun.

    Yes, it is a lot of work but on an older boat it is piece of mind. If done correctly, you will have eliminated an possible future air leaks and should have a good running boat.

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