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  1. #1

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    1996 SLt 700 Polaris new ignition, no spark?

    Hello, i have installed a new upgraded ignition kit, stator,cdi and coil. The original problem was no spark and remains to be the problem? I have a new battery, charged to full capactiy. I have checked for proper voltage coming in the box and also made sure I have good grounds. I printed the diagnostic help for no spark in Green Hulk. It tells me to disconnect the black/yellow wire and check for spark, no help. next I diconnected the gray wire to the cdi and crank over , no spark. I cecked the red/ purple wire for voltage, 12.80 with volt meter.I checked every red/purple wire and got the same voltage. I checked for voltage thru the circuit breaker, 12.80. Next I probed the brown wire connected to the stator wire and got between 5 and 6 volts, I should have dissconected this wire to check it. My next step is to take a 9 volt battery and connect + to brown and black to - on battery and see if I get a spark?
    The other things worth mentioning are I checked the key and did not see it sheared but I did notice the timing screws are set to the far right of the slot, as far as it will go. will this make a difference.Can anyone offer any sugestions or help. Thanks in Advance Robert


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Now we can make some progress

    Connect your voltmeter to the Black and Red/Purple terminals in the electrical box. Now crank the engine - what does the voltage drop to?

    Is the Red/Purple wire from the CDI connected to Orange. Is yes, then connect meter to Orange. Is it zero volts?
    Now crank engine - what voltage?

    Connect one volt meter probe to battery negative, and the other probe to the Black terminal in electrical box. Should show zero volts.
    Now crank engine. Does voltage change from zero volts?

    When cranking, does the MFD show RPM?
    What is the RPM while cranking?

  3. #3

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    i have printed you response , I will check this out tomorrow and give results of test . thank you very much. Robert

  4. #4

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    Hello, i performed the test and have some recorde results. test 1 volt checking red and purple to ground 12.53, while cranking over 11.03 volts. test 2- red/purple wire ois not connected to orange. I checked the volts on orange wire coming out of lr52 no crank , shows slight negative voltage. while cranking orange wire 11.07 volts from lr52. test 3- checking voltage from black wire in black box to battery negative is 0, when engine is cranked over, it shows .402 volts. test 4 , this ski does not have a tachometer, but i had the plugs out and the engine was spinning over very good , much faster than with plugs installed.
    After performing these test, we decided to check for a spark a couple of different times the first time was with both plugs out and the side of the plug grounded to the water rail bolts and also grounding the plug inside the edge of the spark plug hole. no spark.
    The second time we tested for spark we had one plug in and one plug grounded to the bolt and spun the engine over and we had a spark. it seemed like with the plug in the pto head, slowed the engine down and it made the difference. so we pulled both plugs out and had no spark , while spinning the engine. we put both plugs in and this slowed the engine a little more while cranking and we had a extra plugs to put on the wires and both of them fired. looked like a faint spark. So we took and put the wire on the plugs in the head and I spraded a small vapor of either and the engine fired right up for 3 second and then died. i dont understand this , how the plugs being installed in the head causes the iginition system to fire and then take the plugs out but ground the side of the plug and no spark. any ideas? Thanks Robert

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    The water manifold bolts might not actually be grounded to the engine, if they have thread locker (Loctite) on the threads.

    Check for zero ohms between the bolt heads you were using and the battery negative.

  6. #6

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    i should have mentioned , i ohmed from the inside of the box to the water rail bolts and to the engine ground wire to inside of box and got 0 ohms. I also checked from battery negative to the box and water rail bolts and to indside of box ground, got 0 ohms . I have ohmed every possible check I could find hoping to find a bad connection but could not. I also ohmed the lr 52 and lr21 securing screws came out to .02 ohms.
    Is it possible that the timing screws being adjusted all the way to the right be causing a problem or is that a normal setting/

  7. #7
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    Just to be clear. Both spark plugs must be connected to the plug wires and grounded to the engine when checking spark.

    The Polaris twin CDI fires both plugs together, every time, and there is only one ignition coil, with each end of the coil connected to a spark plug. If either spark plug is not grounded, the other won't have (much) spark.

  8. #8

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    Hello K447, I wanted to let you know that I found the problem. The owner/ my friend let her brother put an sbt engine in this ski. I decided to pull the engine ground cable off and look at it, her brother used a dirty bolt and put the ring terminal over engine paint. I cleaned everything up as it should be and now the spark is hotter like it should be and the engine fired right up.
    I want to thank you for you help. i knew this would end in something simple being the problem. I have been a diesel mechanic for 35 years and have did a little gas burner work but not used to stators and cdi boxes and watercraft skies. But hey , I want to say thanks again. Robert D.

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    Arrow Moral of the story - clean those heavy cable connections, especially the engine block

    Glad to hear you found the problem, and fixed it

    This happens fairly often. For some reason, folks try to avoid taking apart and cleaning the main electrical connections. It isn't that hard to do, and it often solves the problem, right away.

    Even when it doesn't fix it, having clean and solid ground connections makes the rest of the diagnostic easier.

    Moral of the story - clean those heavy cable connections, especially the one at the engine block.

  10. #10
    You have to make sure that you clean the area where the stator bolts up with emery paper or a file or a something that can ensure good ground. It may seem clean but use an abrasive and you should get spark

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