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  1. #1
    2x 2004 Seadoo RXP. Milwaukee, Wisconsin. wisconsin_quat's Avatar
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    Red face Sunken salt water salvage Part 2... 6 hours of revival work later...

    So quick history recap:

    Submerged in salt water for 24 hours.

    Trailered home and started working on it 72 hours after it was pulled out of the water.

    Here is what I did to it last night:
    - Put key in, the system acknowledged the key on the display. (no beep though). I did NOT try to start it.
    - Pulled spark plugs (water in the cylinders, also plug 3, the copper tip was starting to corrode).
    - Sucked oil out (only 1/2 quart of milky oil came out)
    - Pulled intake pipe of inlet of SC (2 cups of water came out)
    - Sucked the gas out completely from the tank (out of 13 gallons, approximately 2 gallons was sea water). Thanks 'aha' for the procedure. Unfortunately though, when I put the key on, the fuel pump didn't run... I think it has something to do with the ECU issue (see below)... I had to drill pump the gas out.
    - pulled the intake manifold off (water in the manifold).
    - pulled the waterbox pipe off (sucked out 2 cups of water from the box).
    - pulled the intercooler, vacuumed water from both IC hoses.
    - filled up entire crank case all the way up to the dipstick tube hole in the actual block up with mobil 1 syn oil (hey its all i had at the garage)...
    - removed jet pump nozzle and cone, turned engine over with a 12mm allen on a breaker bar. Soaked the intake valves and plug holes with 'fluid film' anti corrosion spray that everyone on the forum seems to love. The engine turned over, but was a little hard to turn at very first but freed up quite nicely after a couple turns... spins freely now.
    - checked all connections, the only corrosion was on the power cable coming directly off the battery, and ALSO only on 2 pins at the ECU / MPEM (i don't know the correct terminology yet sorry)... One of the ecu pins broke off and remained in the harness.... yes it was just that corroded but only on 2 pins in the harness and ECU. The pin that broke off is the one outlined in the picture below. Does anyone know the function of that pin? Cost of ECU?

    Currently my parts list is:
    fuel injector seals
    intake manifold gaskets
    oil filter
    case of 12 quarts of amsoil marine syn oil.
    new ecu/ mpem or fix existing if possible
    spark plugs
    intercooler seals
    possible wiring harness

    The only engine item that I haven't hit yet with anti corrosion film are the exhaust valves and basically anything on the exhaust side of the engine... remove exhaust manifold??

    So what should I do tonight after work when I go to the garage????

    What are my next steps?????
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  2. #2
    lextoy's Avatar
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    sounds good, i only question the fluid film.
    it is a great protectant against corrosion, but in this cae you want something that actually attacks corrosion too. like aerokroil or pb blaster. does flid film have any penetration and corrosion eating capabilities??
    i have actually seen aerokroil remove rust stains and discoloration from corrosion, with just the wipe of a rag. really seems to recondition the metal.
    gotta get the fuel pump running to flush the system.

  3. #3
    lextoy's Avatar
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    buy a used ECU form someone here, known woring condition, you can use it to run the ski for now. then either keep it or resell it later depending on how yours turns out.

  4. #4
    Ride Hard! aha's Avatar
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    Your going to need a few gallons of the cheap walmart oil to flush through the motor before you put amsoil in it. Maybe see if you can borrow someone else's ECU to see if thats the only problem... your main harness might have gotten salt water in it and became corroded.

    Also you can force the engine to turn over without the ECU running by jumping the starter relay. Even though your not starting it your moving the parts inside the motor and getting the oil and water to mix together and then you can suck the oil out and do that a few times to get as much water out of the motor as possible.

  5. #5
    2x 2004 Seadoo RXP. Milwaukee, Wisconsin. wisconsin_quat's Avatar
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    aha - do you know where to jump the starter relay?

    lextoy - fluid film says it stops corrosion on contact... also i looked at the plug to the fuel pump. it has 4 plugs on it, without looking at a wiring diagram or looking at the actual fuel pump itself, i'm not quite sure which is pos and which is neg...

  6. #6
    mstennes's Avatar
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    Excuse my ignorance here, ut wont you also need the key fob that goes with the ecu?

  7. #7
    lextoy's Avatar
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    no point to crank over engine with crancase filled to the brim, when you are ready to crank it over withdraw alot of the oil down to normal levels, then spin it over. i would probably not bother trying to spin it over until i was ready to actually start it, aka when you get the electronics figured out until then leave it full, since you already got it filled up.

  8. #8
    lextoy's Avatar
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    anyone think of any additive to add to the oil to help get the water out?? i know in cars/boats they sometimes use ATF as it is VERY hydrophyllic. remove 1/2 quart oil. then add 1/2 quart ATF, then just run it at idle for 5 min with the ATF mixture in?? then change out oil a few times to get fresh oil back to normal.
    theory is the ATF absorbs all the moisture into solution, so you can get it out properly.
    only problem i can see is we cant exchange all teh oil in our systems, like in a car. i guess thats why we have the boil out procedure??

  9. #9
    Ride Hard! aha's Avatar
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    There is still water in that motor even though he filled it with oil. I know this for a FACT since i just went through this entire procedure back in April after my RXP sunk out in the Pacific ocean.

    From my own personal experience I cranked the motor over in order to get the water to mix with the oil so that I could get as much water out as possible. My ski was not starting either due an electrical issue so I had to force the ski to turn over using a crescent wrench on the starter relay. This relay is in the front of the ski across from the battery, just follow the red wire coming from the battery and it goes directly to the relay.

    Get some of the oil out of the motor before you try cranking it and get the motor turning over... without plugs in it. Turn it over for a minute or 2 and then change the oil/filter. Do this over and over until you cant get the oil to turn milky anymore. Once your done just fill the motor back up with oil again... at least you will have removed most of the water. Also pull the valve cover off and make sure you suck all the water from around the valve springs.

    As for jumping the fuel pump thats actually quite simple. Get some aligator clips and hook them to the 2 outside prongs on the fuel pump. Check the cable your pulling off and find out which 1 is the purple wire... thats the "hot" wire. Match that up to which side of the outside prong you have the aligator clip hooked too and then hook that side to the positive on the battery. Then hook the other 1 to the negative on the battery. This will basically just run the fuel pump. This way you can be certain all the water is out of the fuel lines.

    In the meantime I would be working on getting an ECU to try and plug in.

    I myself filled 2 5 gallon water jugs with oil... thats how many oil changes I did on my ski to get all the water out. 1 jug got filled from oil changes before I could even get my ski started. The 2nd jug was after I figured out my electrical problem and got it started and found the oil was still turning to choclate milk. Oh and I went through 10 filters.

  10. #10
    Richieb's Avatar
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    Mate, sorry to hear ya ride got a drink too much.

    In my experience with these hi-density connectors on ECU's, I would change the connector as well. Once water has got in, its pretty sure the contacts on the pins in both connector and ECU are gooone.

    Wiring loom for sure. The pin you identified is most likely the +12v feed to the ecu, which is what caused it to erode away so quickly.

    You can try some micro-soldering to fix it. I have managed it before on ECU's, and it worked, but always they had spurious issues with connections.

    Best thing is to do the micro-soldering and use the shaft from a good old fashioned hat-pin to replace the shot one. scratch around where it used to be to sa much depth as possible, use tweezers to hold pre-cut to length replacement pin(or one from a donor socket, they all the same dimensions, but wait till you have a result on the testing first), and solder it well into/atop the duff one.

    Where 1 pin has eaten itself away, there will be a -ve with similar damage too, have a look to see if it has suffered too, and either tin the pin, or replace it.

    once done, and the key on the post wakes her back up, get a BUDS jammed on it to test the whole loom.

    Usual ones to get water are the coil connectors, as most times people take the connector off, and miss the seal doing a quick dash for cover under the engine.

    Make sure knock sensor is cleaned over too. Maybe if you can, open all connectors, and lash them with WD to halt any further corrosion.

    Good luck with it.

    I would have a go at the ECU if it was with me here for sure, its the plug that is the worst enemy when been wet.

    Let us know any developments, but keep the battery off until you are sure all are dry or protected.

    SAME advice for anyone with a sunken Ski... DISCONNECT THE BATTERY before the damage is done.

    Most of the connectors are a REAL pain to replace, ...which generally is the only sure-fire solution.

    Check it all out first. Its like mobiles, do the same if they had a drink.... but not Humans, they disconnect their own battery after too much to drink..!!

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