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  1. #1

    sl 1050 stator issues!! again!!

    My 97 sl 1050 just ran out of spark, i checked the stator and it was burnt! so i was told that i could use a 1200 stator and CDI, the part number off it is 4010171 on the cdi and i have a good stator! does anybody know if this will work?


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    You want to use a 1200 stator and CDI in a 1050 engine

    What year 1200?

    The ignition coils have different part numbers
    1997 SL 1050 has 4060153 vs. 4010174, 4010342, 4010342

  3. #3
    i am not too sure the year! but no big deal i ordered a new stator today, i was told that i could use a 1200 stator and ignition but i saw the part numbers didnt match! i ordered just the stator i have the updated cdi is there an updated flywheel? or does it really matter? and that black plastic magnet holder inside the mag whats the deal with that?

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    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by romes View Post
    ...is there an updated flywheel?
    ...and that black plastic magnet holder inside the mag whats the deal with that?
    The flywheel does not change with the update kit.

    The magnets in the center section of the flywheel signal the Hall Effect sensor on the stator, and control the ignition timing.

  5. #5
    so if i removed thoes screws and that holder how would i time that again?

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    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by romes View Post
    so if i removed those screws and that holder how would i time that again?
    Can you see where the screws were before, and match it up that way?

    That adjustment is rather sensitive. It doesn't take much movement to shift the timing several degrees.

    When the engine is running, you can use a timing light at 3,000RPM to confirm the timing is correct. But you need to put the flywheel cover on to allow the starter motor to work
    Then take it off again to adjust, and so on.

    There is a static timing method outlined in some of the service manuals. There is a reference table in the manual, and you manually rotate the motor while watching for the Hall Effect sensor to trigger. Start with page 478 in the manual, and page 482

    Read up on the options for checking and adjusting timing, and go from there.

    It is important to get the timing right. Even a couple of degrees off can cause problems.
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  7. #7
    ya that sucks i guess i should check up on that before i put it together again! thanks for all the help its is much appreciated!

  8. #8
    ph2ocraft's Avatar
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    romes, you say you just replaced the stator and it went out already, how long ago?
    The reason I ask is maybe you have something taking the stators out. I've seen a bad crank and/or bearings take out a stator due to micro wobbling (or something of that sort).

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by romes View Post
    ...checked the stator and it was burnt!...
    Quote Originally Posted by ph2ocraft
    ...maybe you have something taking the stators out...
    Burnt - I should have picked up on that!

    If the LR module has shorted, it will draw a heavy current from the battery, and that will toast the charging coil.

    Do you know which stator coil was burned?

    If the charging coil (Yellow to Purple/Red wires) was burned, then you should consider replacing the LR module.

    You may be able to check for a short with a multi-meter from ground to the Yellow wire on the LR module. If it reads zero ohms, it is bad.

  10. #10
    i just bought it and it apparently ran fine!! i put some V-FORCE in it and tried to fire it up and had very litte spark than i had none, so i checked some stuff out and it pointed to the stator! it was one of the exciter coils and than the ground was not reading right!

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