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  1. #1
    Steve STSPERFORMANCE's Avatar
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    Exclamation Think i fried a coil

    After checking austins thread about the ignition coils, found out my number 2 coil was bad. I dont think there was enuff grease on it...

    Why do these go bad? Could the lack of grease have caused it to go??

    Dielectric grease from top to bottom on install or keep it away from the bottom area that goes on the plug?

    Thanks in advance...


  2. #2
    Richieb's Avatar
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    They sometimes just break... period.

    They work in a harsh environment all the time, some do just stuff-up, and that's it.

    Meter it out, if gone, turn it into a ornament, or file it.

  3. #3
    Steve STSPERFORMANCE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by richieb View Post
    they sometimes just break... Period.

    They work in a harsh environment all the time, some do just stuff-up, and that's it.

    Meter it out, if gone, turn it into a ornament, or file it.
    got my new coils all is well. How can i double check the ones that i took off to see which i should pitch and which i should keep?

    Whats this meter??

  4. #4
    Richieb's Avatar
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    DVM, digital volt multimeter.

    If you know you have a good one, the first way is to comp
    are readings from one to another.

    Probes from one contact to another etc.

    Make sure they are spotless in the part where the plug insulator goes into as well, it helps prevent leakage at high rpm. The spark will try to jump any gap it can when the cylinders are under pressure.

    There is a specific tollerance in the workshop manual if you look for it.

    It shows you there how to..

  5. #5
    Steve STSPERFORMANCE's Avatar
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    Anyone know the tolerance??

  6. #6
    Richieb's Avatar
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    Here ya go, sorry it took so long to get back to ya.

    Resistance test.
    An ignition coil can give good resistance readings, but still be bad. Voltage leak can occur at high voltage levels which is not detectable with a DVM meter. Replacing the coil may be necessary as a test to prove it.

    So, use a DVM to check resistance readings in both the primary and secondary coils.

    Primary coil.
    On the connector, check resistance between terminal 1 & 2 to be 0.85 - 1.15 ohms.

    Secondary Coil.
    Between the spark-plug terminal inside the coil nose and terminal 1 on the connector to be 9.5 - 13.5 K ohms.

    Teminals on the connector are, when looking from the front toward the socket. Connecor 1 is the left, and 2 is the right connector.


    Other inspections.
    Check the little red silicone rubber seal is in place. If you omit this, water will get into the connector, and cause a bad connection in time.

    Look at the coil nose silicone rubber neck. Make sure it is clean and dry. You can wipe it with isopropyl alchohol and a lint free cloth. If you can't get into clean it satsfactorily, then you can take the rubber part off and clean it. Be careful when removing this, it will tear if you are not careful.

    If you do this, then clean the tip of the coil moulding too. wait until all are dry, then re-assemble making sure it is seated correctly on the coil nose.

    If you can, make sure the ceramic white insulator on the spark plug is clean and dry at all times.

    When you push the coil onto the spark plug in the cylinder head, you will feel it push home. Make sure you feel the top connector click into place when you finish. there are many a problem caused by this not being fully connected by not securing the connector.

    High-voltage tracking down the insulator often will affect performance if it is dirty or damp. This is always important with such high stress on the engine at full power.

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