Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1
    Legend in my own mind Sirhc7897's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Lake Butler, FL.
    Posts
    1,140

    How to check the deck on the block

    Got a couple questions about this: My ski seems to keep blowing headgaskets (last one was draining a entire tank of coolant in a 2-3 mile run and showing coolant in the oil and filling the catch can to the point of overflow + pushing coolant out the tube on the side of the coolant bottle until I replaced the cap)

    -how to go about doing it & can it be done with the motor still in the ski (accurately)
    -If it's out can it be machined with the motor assembled or will the motor have to come apart?

    I had the deck on the head checked when I took it off to install Ferera valves but not the block...

    Thanks


  2. #2
    To check the block you need a straight edge and feeler gauges, check the manual for the specs but all you need to do is lay your straight edge on top and check for gaps under it. Check in multiple patterns, straight as well in X paterns to check to see if the block is warped. Hope this helps and yes you probably can do it with the engine in the ski

    Brian

  3. #3
    Legend in my own mind Sirhc7897's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Lake Butler, FL.
    Posts
    1,140
    That is certainly helpful......

    Assuming it needed to be decked could that be done on a assembled engine? I would think no.....but I'm hoping I'm thinking wrong......If it can pulling the motor certainly isn't a issue...

  4. #4
    Site Admin Green Hulk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Morgan City, LA
    Posts
    36,398
    +1
    2,524
    Quote Originally Posted by Sirhc7897 View Post
    That is certainly helpful......

    Assuming it needed to be decked could that be done on a assembled engine? I would think no.....but I'm hoping I'm thinking wrong......If it can pulling the motor certainly isn't a issue...
    Chris, if the deck is warped you will need to disassemble the engine.

    Also, if you mill more than .015 you will need to install the rotax racing cam chain tensioner.

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    euxton nr chorley lancashire, england
    Posts
    1,500
    +1
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Sirhc7897 View Post
    That is certainly helpful......

    Assuming it needed to be decked could that be done on a assembled engine? I would think no.....but I'm hoping I'm thinking wrong......If it can pulling the motor certainly isn't a issue...
    after you've done the testing i would use a block guard from jerrys store

  6. #6
    dhoad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    North Aurora, Illinois, United States
    Posts
    3,182
    +1
    6
    Quote Originally Posted by jetskibill9999 View Post
    after you've done the testing i would use a block guard from jerrys store
    why would you need a block guard after the head has been milled?

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    euxton nr chorley lancashire, england
    Posts
    1,500
    +1
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by dhoad View Post
    why would you need a block guard after the head has been milled?
    it stops the cylinder liners from walking on hi revs which bulletproofs the head gasket more

  8. #8
    Legend in my own mind Sirhc7897's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Lake Butler, FL.
    Posts
    1,140
    I've got a blockguard in and it is well under the lip of the deck.....Can't imagine it causing the problem though (numerous people have run them without issue). Can they cause a issue if they are installed too far (say 1/2" under the lip?). One side dropped down when I was installing so I flushed the whole thing to the same level?

    I initially had a headgasket failure and replaced it. The new one slowed my coolant loss and catch can filling up considerably but it was still present.....When I replaced the headgasket this time around I went with a thinner gasket to get a little extra pop and I think this simply magnified the problem as with the 2 layers removed I had even less area to accomodate the likely warped block or head.....

    Unfortunately I suspect it's going to be the block as I had the head done recently......We'll see......

    On the upside, this motor has needed new rings since I bought the ski used so it will be a chance to go in it and get it all up to proper specs.....

    And maybe even find a little money tree and make it better (no point in going in to one just to make it good as new......might as well upgrade... )

  9. #9
    pjsc823's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Biloxi miss
    Posts
    135
    The head should have warped way before the block, if it was caused by heat. I would check the head again.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 4
    Last Post: 05-13-2014, 08:36 PM
  2. How to check the gauge cluster
    By DURAMAX in forum Yamaha PWC Performance (2-stroke)
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 09-19-2012, 07:35 PM
  3. How to check the Exhaust Pipe orifice on the Domestics motors
    By CrazyA in forum Polaris How To & FAQs
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 07-09-2012, 10:01 AM
  4. Replies: 0
    Last Post: 03-22-2011, 12:22 PM
  5. How to check the stator
    By charley in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 07-13-2008, 09:12 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •