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  1. #1

    Join Date
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    Think I bought a lemon

    Long story short, bought a ski, ski wouldn't start, took off the stator cover today, and there is condensation and thick orange rust mud? The bendix was frozen solid so the ski wouldn't turn over. I soaked the bendix in oil, now It will engage. The magneto looked like it was corroded, and the flywheel was all rust. The owner I bought it off of insists it never got water inside, I did get it for $700.. should have known.

    Do you think the crank was damaged? I assume water inside the engine sitting would destory the crank bearings, and I run the risk of destorying it down the road.

    The pistons look great, turn nicely.. Should I look at replacing the crank? If they ran it with water in it could it have damaged other items? I suppose only a compression/leak down test would find anything else.

    This is a 97 tigershark daytona 1000, however this is more of a general question and I trust the reliable advice I have received on the polaris forums in the past.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Well, it sounds like you have scoped it out.

    If the crank shaft turns nicely, then you need to decide whether to try running it as is, or open up the crank case enough to check for rusting.

    I don't know much about Tigershark, but sometimes you can get water seeping into the magneto area, yet not get into the crank case. Usually this happens when there is water sitting in the bottom of the hull, and the magneto seal is not 100%.

    I think the Bendix is the same as Polaris - but I may be wrong.
    Edit: Maybe it is the starter motor that is the same...
    Last edited by K447; 06-02-2009 at 09:03 PM.

  3. #3

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    The bendix is have for my polaris is a little smaller ... I think I need to split the case and pray the bearings aren't show any signs of water damage. At this point it almost seems like the seal would be the issue, because the top end has no rust at all. Hopefully the crank bearings looks nice.

    Would it be helpful to coat the crank in 2-cycle oil to help if any moisture did get into the crankcase?

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bryan428 View Post
    ...Would it be helpful to coat the crank in 2-cycle oil to help if any moisture did get into the crankcase?
    Only to prevent the rust from spreading, if there is any.

    Oil will not reverse the rusting that may have already occurred.

  5. #5

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    Jun 2007
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    Harrisburg PA
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    I cannot get this flywheel off. I have tried the puller and the impact gun, heat, cheater bar with a piece of rope in the intake inlet and then with a piece of wood in the intake inlet this thing will not budge. Splits rope and wood... I think its frozen on there for good! Any ideas? should I call a machine shop?
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  6. #6
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Try cranking the puller down as tight as you can get it.

    Then smack the puller bolt with a hammer. Sometimes the shock will pop that baby off.

  7. #7

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    Just tried it, no dice. I'm wondering if a can of PB blaster could help. I'm really not sure I would be able to spray where I need to tho.

    Quote Originally Posted by xlint89 View Post
    Try cranking the puller down as tight as you can get it.

    Then smack the puller bolt with a hammer. Sometimes the shock will pop that baby off.

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Cut pieces of wood (hardwood would be good) to the diameter of the piston, and put into the MAG cylinder. Then bolt the head back on. Now the crankshaft can not rotate.

    PB Blaster on the snout of the flywheel shaft, let it soak, keep re-applying for a day or three. It might soak in better if you can tip the engine so the flywheel is pointing straight up.

    When you feel it is tenderized enough, try an impact wrench on the puller bolt. Go easy, little increments at a time.

    Be ready for a potentially violent release. The flywheel could go flying, so make sure nothing will get damaged, including you.

  9. #9

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    I torqued the heck out of the puller, blocked the piston from moving with a wooden plunger handle, sprayed it with PB blaster, and heated the heck out of the center of the flywheel. Every 2 mins I would pound on the puller bolt with a hammer. After about 10 mins the flywheel popped off. Thanks for the help!

  10. #10

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    Jun 2007
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    It looks like the bearing didn't get wet inside the flywheel cover. Going to split the case just to make sure, but it seems like the stator cover might have a bad gasket and thats what rusted the starter and the bendix. Keeping my fingers crossed there is no rust on the crank!

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