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Thread: 2000 XP help

  1. #1

    2000 XP help

    Hi, I haven't visited here since last summer. I got some help for my 1996 GTX (wear ring and fuel lines). It's running great now - thanks. New problem with relatives 2000 XP. Last summer they took it out and was running fine when it just started to miss or shudder for no apparent reason. Parked it over winter but tried again recently same thing. Will start but runs very rough. Took it to dealer and they said it needs new enginge because one of the cylinders shows no compression. Does this sound reasonable? I guess it could happen but ski was running fine and just out of the blue started this rough thing. Any suggestions or help would be apprecieated.


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    KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX's Avatar
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    The only way to know is a compression check.

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    96XPSS's Avatar
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    The normal sequence for failure would be the lack of maintenance done to the ski. Had the carbs ever been cleaned? When the carbs get dirty from fuel varnish or debris, the engine starts running poorly, but instead of stopping and diagnosing the problem, the engine is still attempted or required to run. This then seizes a piston, due to lean fuel mixture, and the end result is no compression.

    Another possible scenerio: Did the owner ever fog his engine when it sat? If not, the cylinders rusted to a point that it egg shaped the sleeves and worn out or broke a piston.

    There's a couple things to ask your family member...

  4. #4
    Thanks for the replys. I would have to say that maintenance was probably minimal over the years. From what I have seen the ski was used in the summers, sat up during the winter and I doubt if it was ever winterized. The ski is in Texas so freezing not much of an issue but other things such as carbs etc probably suffered. If it is the case where there is no or low compression in a cylinder but it still runs albeit rough, what would be the most economical way to repair? Does the entire engine need to be replaced? Thanks again

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    96XPSS's Avatar
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    I would not say the whole engine, just a top end and bore. And thoroughly clean the carbs.

    Make sure you stress to him that his engine needs fogging if sitting longer than two weeks.

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    SURFnTURF's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GRM View Post
    Thanks for the replys. If it is the case where there is no or low compression in a cylinder but it still runs albeit rough, what would be the most economical way to repair? Does the entire engine need to be replaced? Thanks again
    If the compression test comes back with a low number (less than 100psi) yes you need a new piston and rings in that cylinder with either a re bore or a slight hone to the damaged cylinder. The compression in both cylinders need to be within 10% of each other so a test is the first procedure.A good running 947 stock engine usually has a 130-135 psi compression so this is a good starting point to achieve.

    These 947cc engines are a wet exhaust system and when they have been finished with at the end of the day it is good practice to fog the engine after each use. Because usually the engine stops rotating with at least one of the pistons below the exhaust port this can lead to rust forming on the cylinder walls (as they are raw steel) very quickly due to condensation from the wet exhaust pipe.This condensation can get down into the crankshaft machined surfaces and cause problems later . A can of fogging spray can save you $$$ .

  7. #7
    Can someone run me through fogging my 99 xpl?

    After each run i flush it clean it wipe it down and spray a mist of wd40/crc eqivilant over the engine.

    Fogging to I just pull both plugs and put a tiny spray in each cylinder?

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    SURFnTURF's Avatar
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    [quote=kidafa;1082854]Can someone run me through fogging my 99 xpl?

    quote]

    First you need a can of fogging oil not CRC as this will eventually dry out and have no benefit. After wash down and then flushing on the hose then blip ping the throttle to remove excess water from the exhaust system.I then spray fogging oil while the engine is running into both carbs through either the air filter mesh or down the stock air duct and blip the throttle so it sucks the fogging oil right through the crankcase and into the combustion chambers.When done correctly the engine will stumble a little as then I know its gone into the cylinders then I shut it off. keep the hood open just a little for air circulation so the engine bay dries out. I then spray some crc onto the engine and electrical items to disperse any water.
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    KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kidafa View Post
    Can someone run me through fogging my 99 xpl?

    After each run i flush it clean it wipe it down and spray a mist of wd40/crc eqivilant over the engine.

    Fogging to I just pull both plugs and put a tiny spray in each cylinder?
    Robert is absolutely right about needing to fog the engine if it is going to be sitting more than a week.

    There are two ways to solve that problem. One, is to fog the machine before it is put up.

    The other is to start it up at least once a week and let it get some fuel/oil circulated and some heat (I run mine for 40 seconds in warm weather and a minute if it is below 60 degrees). That amount of time will do the job (at least it has for four winters now) and not risk getting too hot.

    I have to charge the battery every couple of weeks or so but it also seems that in doing this my batteries last longer.

    That said, if you will not be able to do this, here is how I fog them.

    I use a "Fogging Oil" rather than WD or such as S&T pointed out.

    Set it up to run on the hose (engine on, water on, water off, engine off). If you have the stock air box I would suggest unbolting the snorkels and popping the box back off the carbs.

    I took a vacuum "T" of the appropriate size and three pieces of tubing to make a fogging apparatus (the idea was David HX's, at least that is who I stole it from). One tube goes on the straw on the can and the other two go into the carbs. If you have open flame arrestors I suggest you take them off (you can spray down into them, but a lot of it drips out the bottom).

    Get her started on the hose and have something keeping the time as you have a five minute limit on the hose because of the carb shaft seal (it will overheat). I like to keep the water flow to a minimum, just a good soft drizzle out of the pisser as this allows it to warm up. Once she is warm (about a minute, minute and thirty) get fogging oil tubes into the carbs (you can do this prior to start, it is up to you) and start spraying.

    The engine will bog down. If the Rs drop below 1500 let off the spray some (if it dies on the hose you have to restart or cut the water ASAFP!). I like to get a good half a can or so in there as I want to "Fog the crap out of it." This should take a minute and a half or so of mostly constant spray. There should be a LOT of white-ish smoke.

    Once you feel you have it well and truly fogged you need to cut the water, blip the throttle a couple of times to clear the water box and shut her down. This needs to be quick as you are burning out your lube.

    Immediately ground the plug wires and pull the plugs. Spray some fogging oil in through the plug holes and bump it over with the starter (this is why you grounded the plugs, oh yeah, stand back when you do this ) a few seconds.

    Now put the plugs back in and you are fogged.

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    SURFnTURF's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX View Post
    .

    Once you feel you have it well and truly fogged you need to cut the water, blip the throttle a couple of times to clear the water box and shut her down. This needs to be quick as you are burning out your lube.

    .
    Sorry but this isn't correct IMO.

    You need to rid the entire exhaust system of as much moisture as possible and just a few blips of the throttle Will Not Be Sufficient.I blip the throttle at least 10 times before I shut the engine off , have you looked at your exhaust outlet while doing this you will notice that huge amounts of water just keep on coming out with every blip . DI XPLs are even worse as they hold even more water in the exhaust system .The exhaust system needs to be purged of as much moisture as possible then you fog without the hose at all.

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