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  1. #1

    boggy cold engine

    In a nut shell:

    I have a 2003 GTX SC, I pulled the engine and dropped in a complete 05 215 engine in, I was missing the engine wire harness, and ecu so I swapped from my 03 engine. I also noticed that my 03 engine harness did not fit onto the 05 temp sensor at the intake, so I put my 03 temp sensor on this new engine.

    All seem good with this modification, the ski ran smooth and went from 64 mph to 68 mph plus. OK, this new setup only ran up to 7620 rpm due to the ecu limiting it, So I wanted the 8K plus rpm so I bought and installed the 05 RXT ecu, installed the pig tail for the knock sensor, had the tech reprogram this ecu to the throttle limiter and now I noticed that it bogs when you put any throttle input during the engine being cold, like the first min. after starting it. Once the engine is warmed up it is OK, this condition does not happen when I put in my 03 ecu and runs smooth from start up and it only started to happen after the tech reprogrammed the 05 ecu to the engine, and before it didn't bog with this 05 ecu.

    Take note that I have this 03 temp sensor in the intake manifold.

    The question is why does it bog after the tech reprogrammed the ecu to the engine and why did it run smooth before and when I put in the 03 ecu?


  2. #2
    Anybody have any clues?

  3. #3
    King_Of_Fun's Avatar
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    Did you change the fuel pressure regulator (FPR)? IIRC, the 215-hp engines have 56 lb FPRs while the 185-hp engines are 43 lb FPRs or so. Maybe someone else will chime in... Ron

  4. #4
    The FPR is not on the motor?, The motor is complete except the ECU and engine wire harness. If not on motor then the craft has the 185 HP FPR, and where could it be located? Could that be the problem?

  5. #5
    King_Of_Fun's Avatar
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    Look on top of the fuel pump assembly on the top of the tank. maybe Jeremy will chime in because he upgraded is 185-hp engine to around 255-hp now... Ron

  6. #6
    jpeconsult's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by King_Of_Fun View Post
    Look on top of the fuel pump assembly on the top of the tank. maybe Jeremy will chime in because he upgraded is 185-hp engine to around 255-hp now... Ron
    (singing) Here I am to save the day !!!

    The 215's use a 58 lb regulator. You should have upgraded to it when you upgraded the ECU. Your dealer should have caught that when he was reprogramming on BUDS...or at least asked.

    The 58 lb regulator install takes about 10 minutes. Open hood, and remove the access panel to the engine compartment. You will see a metal clamp (about an inch wide) holding the fuel pressure regulator onto the top of the fuel cell (gas tank). Pop one side of the clamp off, while holding the other side. If you do not hold the other side, it is possible that it will spring off to the side of the fuel cell, and retreiving it could be difficult (don't ask how I know). Pull hard on the regulator and it will just pop off. Pop the 58 lb regulator in and reconnect the obvious lines. Reinstall the metal clamp. Reinstall the access panel, and close the hood. Batta-bing, batta-boom.

    Here is the 58 fpr that you need.
    http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...roducts_id=446

    start looking at the Fizzle IC kit and upgrading the pump components (driveshaft, wear ring and prop) This should get you over the 70 mph mark.

    something to read during your spare time...
    http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthre...20#post1078320

  7. #7
    Thanks, that should help a lot, the tech isn't the brightest, each time I ask any questions he seems to have this question mark begin to illuminate on his forehead and a bit of smoke trickles from his ears.

  8. #8
    Can't I bypass this reg and use a nice gauged adjustable regulator instead of the OEM one?

  9. #9
    jpeconsult's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hamburger View Post
    Can't I bypass this reg and use a nice gauged adjustable regulator instead of the OEM one?
    Yes, the Rude RRFPR (Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator) is available for $390 before shipping and may be needed IF you start upgrading more, like the bigger SC. The 58 fpr is plug and play on your existing set-up. The rrfpr must be dialed in to AFR (Air Fuel Ratio), so a LC1, LM1 or LM2 will be required. --J

    Link to the rrfpr:

    http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...oducts_id=1052

    Look at www.dynotunenitrous.com for the AFR measuring devices.

  10. #10
    King_Of_Fun's Avatar
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    Some people on the Saab turbo board have been successful with "crushing" FPRs to increase pressure. The do this by compressing the end-to-end dimensions in a vice using some large sockets. Of course there is no way to tell how much the pressure is increased without using a fuel pressure guage.

    Jeremy, thanks for chiming in... Ron

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