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  1. #1
    MDGPR's Avatar
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    adjusting jetworks

    still a little confused by this thing. i think when you put the new gasket in it prevents water from ging into the water box.

    isnt the whole idea to clear out the water? if so why does it need water to go in?

    when adjusting for more low end power. do you tighten or loosen the valve?(i have the new blue one)

    is it doing tis job when water comes out of the pisser or when there is no water.

    just tring to understand how everything works.


  2. #2

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    I'm no expert but here is how I think it work:

    when the valve is closed ( water comming out the pisser) the water box is empty (IE giving you the hole shot you are looking for) as the RPMs go up water PSI increases this opens the valve and water starts going into the water box. The reason you need water in the water box is 2 fold 1 back PSI and 2 to cool the box from the exhaust temps. If you tighten the valve it will release at higher rpms (kinda like holding the clutch in on a stick shift car) as you loosin it lower RPMs

    I hope this helps
    just my 2 cents

  3. #3
    MDGPR's Avatar
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    so if im not racing and am going to be cruising for along time, loosen it to cool the engine better, but if im racing i tighten it to improve holeshot?

  4. #4
    MDGPR's Avatar
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    so if im not racing and am going to be cruising for along time, loosen it to cool the engine better, but if im racing i tighten it to improve holeshot?

  5. #5

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    Not quite.

    It is basicly a "set it and forget it" or a very low maintenance type of set up. You should check it every now and then to make sure that you have water coming out at the right rpms.

    Remember that at low rpms, there is enough water in your exhaust pipe to cool the exhaust gases to the point that they are not a threat to the rubber connections on each side of the water box. This occurs at rpms less than 3000-3500 rpms. You do not need extra water to cool at the water box rubber connections. At higher rpms, you need the water so as to cool the exhaust at the water box and protect these fittings.

    Having little to no water in the water box during low speeds, reduces pressure in the water box. Exhaust gasses flow quickly out of the exhaust. Another way to look at it... if the water box were full of water, the engine would have to blow all of the water out of the exhaust before it could begin to accellerate. Bottom line: no water in the box at low speeds.

    On the other hand, you need a certain amount of back pressure to help maximize your power at the top end. By injecting water into your exhaust at the stinger, you will gain about 150 rpms

    Set your valve to open at 3000-3500 rmps to get this extra water. There will be no water in the box at low rpms and when you get past 3500 rpms, the valve will open and back pressure will increase to maximize your rpms and at the same time cool the exhaust gases before they enter the water box.


    You do not have to loosen or tighten. It is self adjusting and will open and close as the rpms/water pressure changes.

    Set it and forget it!

    By the way, make sure that your jet works outlet line to the stinger is 3/8 and not 1/4 inch. If you use the 1/4" line you will not inject enough water and you will loose rpms at the top end.

  6. #6
    MDGPR's Avatar
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    ok, so before 3000-3500 rpms. i should adjust so no water is coming out? then after those rpms it should open and water should begin to come out of the pisser?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by salty
    "set it and forget it"

    Set it and forget it!
    I think your going to get a call from "show time rotissiare" lawyers..

  8. #8
    Where do u mount the pisser? Above or below the waterline? Does it matter if it is towards or in back of the boat?

  9. #9
    MDGPR's Avatar
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    i mounted mine in the back, under the rear grab handle

  10. #10
    MDGPR's Avatar
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    i mounted mine in the back, under the rear grab handle

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