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  1. #1
    PuprleNuprleGPR's Avatar
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    New Jetworks Method!....thoughts, concerns?

    This kit comes with the 3/8 valve and it sets up like the original kit that uses the existing water hose to supply water . You will need to drill and tap the pipe to be able to add the bypass to the pipe and it will drain the bypass through the cooling exit hose and it will retain the overheat sensor function. It does not disable the bilge system and also wont use the pump plate for the water line. The water will be supplied from one of the hoses coming out of the cylinder head that go to the head pipe.

    ANy thoughs on this new method?


  2. #2
    THE PLATE MAN JIM'S PERFORMANCE's Avatar
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    I like using the one that gets water from the pump. Not the one that gets it from the head. Just my choice.

  3. #3
    PuprleNuprleGPR's Avatar
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    Would there be a reliability differerence, or just preference?

  4. #4
    PuprleNuprleGPR's Avatar
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    Anyone else have any thoughs on this new version of the JW kit? Would it be better if i got the kit with the cooling plate? Im going to order my kit very soon and want the most simple and reliable way to hook it up.

  5. #5
    Gatorcountry's Avatar
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    I just installed the new JW kit tonight on my GP1300R. I got the one pulls water from the pump. Since this uses the bilge line I also ordered a set of duck bills with the kit, and I removed the siphon tube and filled the hole with some JB Weld.

    The kit comes with everything you'll need, and adding the cooling plate to the pump was no problem. I didn't want to mess with the cooling going into the head, and I liked the idea of additional cooling coming from the pump.

    After reading all the information about it here, the install went as expected. I finished too late tonight to give it a try, so I'll see how it works tomorrow.

  6. #6

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    Re: New Jetworks Method!....thoughts, concerns?

    Quote Originally Posted by PurpleNurpleGPR
    . The water will be supplied from one of the hoses coming out of the cylinder head that go to the head pipe.
    ANy thoughs on this new method?
    Actually I do not believe it is a new method, but is certainly is one method not talked about.

    I would suggest that instead of cutting your OEM hose from the head to the pipe, that you go to an auto supply shop and purchase a 1 foot piece of hose of the same size (5/8ths heater hose?) and use however much of it to replace the OEM yamaha hose. This way, if your method does not work out, you can reinstal your OEM hose.

    Your idea has merit. Diverting water away from the pipe allows it to get hotter which allows for a faster wave in the pipe which sets the stage for higher rpms due to increased scavageing. Why do you think people divert or dump so much water overboard using pissers from the head? The cylinders cool and the pipe gets hotter.

    The only potential down side that I see is that you may not have enough water pressure at that point to deliver enough water to the stinger to get your rpms back on the top end. Not only that, but every time you mod your engine, it may influence water pressure. You must make sure that you did not effect the amount of water going to your stinger anytime you mod.

    Because the water comes directly from the pump, Fernando's method virtually guarantees that you will always have enough water pressure to get the job done. You may not have this luxury.

    The proof is in the pudding though. Get a base line on your rpms before you modify. After the mod, check the top end rpms again. If you have at least the same, then you have a good mod.

    Please report your findings.

  7. #7
    Moderator RX951's Avatar
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    Welcome to the forum Gatorcountry

  8. #8
    PuprleNuprleGPR's Avatar
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    Thanx for the replies guys. I think that I might change my mind, and got with the kit that uses the cooling plate. Does the kit with the cooling plate setup require the disabling of the bilge pump?

  9. #9

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    It all depends on how you set it up, if you don't want to disable the bilge tube just put a thru-hull fitting through your transom, alot of us at this point disable the the bilage tube and use that tube to get through the transom.
    removeing the bilge tube out of the nozzel is a good mod who wants it sticking in there and blocking the flow? witch in turn saves you from drilling a hole through your transom a win win situation

  10. #10
    PuprleNuprleGPR's Avatar
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    Isnt the bilge tube there incase the boat starts flooding, because I rather drill another hole than have me stranded somewhere. Duckbills could work but Im not sure if i trust them to prevent water from going in.


    EDIT - I think that 1300r's come with a bilge pump, so then I could just fill up the hole without any problems, or....?

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