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  1. #1

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    08 RXP-X coil and plugs fouling

    Our skis are kept on a floating dock on salt water. Before each ride I spray entire engine with CRC (liquid). I don't flush or rinse after each ride, but I have no problems with corrosion. I keep the seat sealed when not in use and a cover on the ski.

    My friend who stores the ski on a floating dock on salt water however, flushes and washes the entire ski - and engine every Sunday. Wide open spray on the entire engine and uses a sponge with soap. Suctions out the water with a hand pump, props open the seat with a noodle, covers and leaves it like that until next Saturday.

    Lately this friend is having problems with the coils going bad and then the plugs having water in them.

    I have noticed that after replacing the coil, on Saturday seems to work fine as long as no flushing. Then, again on Sunday works fine again. At end of the day friend goes through the process, then by the next Saturday after sitting a whole week, ski is running on 2 cylinders again.

    Friend is adamant that washing the engine this way must be done because of the Salt build up and that the service manual says to.

    If you have ever seen a Jacque Cousteau exploration where they remove artifacts from salt water, you will notice that they always store the items in salt water when pulled out because they say introduction to fresh water begins the corrosion process. I tend to believe it. After living on the salt water and having skis, I notice far less corrosion by sealing up the ski and just using CRC. Think about it.....if dampness can get out -- it can get in too. And when you live on salt water you will also notice salt mist and saltiness on your car as well. So, if you leave your seat propped open that saltiness and salt water air is getting in from sitting there propped open.

    Process described in the manual is for dry storage...not out in the environment.


  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by saltycaptain View Post
    Our skis are kept on a floating dock on salt water. Before each ride I spray entire engine with CRC (liquid). I don't flush or rinse after each ride, but I have no problems with corrosion. I keep the seat sealed when not in use and a cover on the ski.

    My friend who stores the ski on a floating dock on salt water however, flushes and washes the entire ski - and engine every Sunday. Wide open spray on the entire engine and uses a sponge with soap. Suctions out the water with a hand pump, props open the seat with a noodle, covers and leaves it like that until next Saturday.

    Lately this friend is having problems with the coils going bad and then the plugs having water in them.

    I have noticed that after replacing the coil, on Saturday seems to work fine as long as no flushing. Then, again on Sunday works fine again. At end of the day friend goes through the process, then by the next Saturday after sitting a whole week, ski is running on 2 cylinders again.

    Friend is adamant that washing the engine this way must be done because of the Salt build up and that the service manual says to.

    If you have ever seen a Jacque Cousteau exploration where they remove artifacts from salt water, you will notice that they always store the items in salt water when pulled out because they say introduction to fresh water begins the corrosion process. I tend to believe it. After living on the salt water and having skis, I notice far less corrosion by sealing up the ski and just using CRC. Think about it.....if dampness can get out -- it can get in too. And when you live on salt water you will also notice salt mist and saltiness on your car as well. So, if you leave your seat propped open that saltiness and salt water air is getting in from sitting there propped open.

    Process described in the manual is for dry storage...not out in the environment.
    Capt. your post makes sense, but I just can't connect it with the "fouling of the plugs" scenario The only thing I can guess is bad fuel. I recently helped a forum member via PM about fouling his plugs in an RXP. Turns out he was using 89 octane fuel instead of 90+ octane. The problem went away as soon as he went for the higher octane where does your friend gets his fuel and what octane?

  3. #3

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    Nope. Friend uses 93 Octane religiously from the same place we do. I have ran 89 in mine by mistake (friend fueled it) and never had a problem.

    The friend with the plugs fouling only happened once right after removing the plugs to check and apparently the "squishy" thing around the plugs which keeps water out???? fell off.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by saltycaptain View Post
    Nope. Friend uses 93 Octane religiously from the same place we do. I have ran 89 in mine by mistake (friend fueled it) and never had a problem.

    The friend with the plugs fouling only happened once right after removing the plugs to check and apparently the "squishy" thing around the plugs which keeps water out???? fell off.
    woooooo, back the truck up what "squishy" thang I love surprises

  5. #5

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    No more problems!

    Some type of washer or something. Calls it the squishy thing around the plug.

    Surprise surprise, problems stopped once owner stopped letting open hose run on top of the engine to rinse.

    Lesson: No matter what they say in the manual for cleaning...don't spray your electrical down when you store the skis in a water environment.

  6. #6
    something is not right here If water enters the top spark plug hole chambers, it should not do any interference in the engine. I hose mine every time I get off the water By reading this thread, it only tells me that the plugs are not torqued properly or the spark plug boot is not sealed. just my opinion If condensation is the culprit, then Di-electric it, like I do. maybe that's the difference between your ski and mine? because I Di-electric all of my connection including the spark plug I even wiped grease on the hole chamber of the spark plug area.

  7. #7
    Antiguan FZR's Avatar
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    Flush your engine, it does alot more than you think...
    The flush creates a reverse flow that washes out debris and neutralises salt water. Dont forget that intercooler is aluminum and salt loves to eat it.
    The key is to cover the Air Filter and not apply direct pressure to the electrics.
    My best soluton so far has been Boeshield T9, if you coat the S/C wheel/cover and I/C fins, it keeps it protected. Does not evaporate like CRC and WD40.

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