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  1. #1
    USS RXT's Avatar
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    How-To: Bilge pumps

    Has anyone installed a bilge pump in a RXP or RXT and if so where did you put it and what kind of switch did you use.I an thinking of putting one in my RXT,It usualy stays dry but the time I lost my intake grate it filled up with alot of water.I figure it's cheap insurance,if your out riding and something happens.


  2. #2

    Join Date
    Jun 2005
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    Oceanside, CA
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    SeaDoo RXT Bilge Pump Install

    Overview:
    The stock RXT (and I would guess RXP and GTX 4Tec?) utilizes a “siphon” system consisting of 2 bailer intakes located in bottom of the bilge and a series of plastic hoses. Suction is created by negative pressure as water moves past the pump. While this system generally works fine, it does have some limitations:

    • - Doesn’t work while ski is not moving (i.e. docked, low speed towing, etc…).

      - Doesn’t help evacuate water while the ski is trailered (i.e. after rinsing engine if you cannot tip the ski at an extreme angle to get water to run out of the drain plugs).

      - Is prone to failure such as having the hose blow off the check valves (one-way valves) or if they pull out of the venture. In extreme cases, the suction system can actually work backwards and will inject water into the hull.
    If you ride in remote areas, do aggressive riding or are prone to getting water in the hull, a bilge pump may make sense for you. A setup like the one described here will cost about $100 and will take an hour or two to install.

    Parts List:
    You can get parts at any marine supply store, such as a local jetski dealer or a retailer such as West Marine. Of course you can improvise based on what type of system you want to build; this is just how I did mine.

    Items Needed*:
    • Rule 500GPH Automatic Bilge Pump
      Attwood THRU HULL 3/4" Stainless fitting (1 1/8” OD)
      Dupage SS hose clamps 9/16" TO 1-1/4" (QTY 2)
      ¾” bilge hose, PVC reinforced, 4 feet
      1 1/8” OD hole saw
      Permatex dielectric tuneup grease.33oz
      16 gauge hook up wire, 10 ft
      Waterproof switch (i.e. toggle w/ waterproof boot)
      3M 5200 Marine Adhesive
      Silicone sealant, marine grade
      5 amp fuse and fuse holder (Rule directions say 2.5A)
      Shrink wrap (to fit 16ga wire)
      Split loom plastic conduit, 5 ft
    * I got everything here from BoatFix.com, good prices and everything was in stock.

    Installation:
    Step 1: Mounting
    Remove seats, cowling, ventilation hose and other hoses so you can get down into the hull near the drive shaft tunnel. Mount pump base to hull. I found a nice circular indentation in the fiberglass on the hull floor on the left side (facing forward) near the water box and bailer intake. I used 3M 5200 fast drying adhesive since it will not break down in salt water or when exposed to petroleum products. You can also mount the base using a mounting bracket so you don’t have to get glue on the hull. Do not mount the pump or screen yet, just the blue plastic base.

    Step 2: Electrical
    Splice extra wire into the existing leads. I soldered the connections and then shrink wrapped the joints. You do not want water getting into the splice and corroding the connection. Insert a fuse holder and fuse inline on the brown wire. Test that the fuse is working by touching the wires on the battery terminals (brown wire to positive, black wire to negative, I taped off the brown/white striped wire and do not use it). You should hear the pump spin up. Mount a switch and hook up the wiring as per the bilge pump installation directions. I stuffed the wires in a “split loom” plastic conduit and ran it along the left side of the hull, under a piece of white foam and up to the battery area. I glued a water proof switch (SPST or basic on/off circuit) on to the fuse block and ran silicone over any wires and screw terminals. Make sure to test that the circuit works before routing cables and zip tying everything down. There are obviously many variations on this theme, such as wiring the cables into the ignition so the DESS lanyard controls the circuit or using two pumps. This one is the simplest and works for what I need.

    Step 3: Plumbing
    There is ample room at the back of the ski to route bilge hose. I ran mine near the bailer hoses and zip tied it up high using the mount for the exhaust hose. It is crucial to create a “riser loop” with the bilge hose where portion of the hose sits higher than the thru-hull fitting. This will prevent backflow or taking on too much water if the ski gets flipped. I mounted the thru-hull fitting up near the tow cleat on the rear cowling so it was well above the water line and not too hideous to look at.

    I have pictures if anybody wants to see them. I've used this system in battle (big ocean waves) and it blows water out of the bilge very quickly.

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Jul 2005
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    Troy, NY
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    can you please Post the pic I would like to see, I was thinking of getting one for my rxp because I go in the ocean alot and do a lot of wave jumping.

  4. #4
    USS RXT's Avatar
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    Ya toesurf show us some pics

  5. #5

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    Ski is at dealer, I'll snap some pics this weekend. Here are some pics that get the point across...
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  6. #6
    Site Admin MikeTrin's Avatar
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    Thanks for the informative post. If you don't mind I moved it to Important RXP/RXT Information and made it an how-to.

  7. #7
    way2fast's Avatar
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    Just don't use that corrugated white or black hose that they sell for bilge pump installations. It will restrict water flow by 1/3 compared to smooth wall plastic tubing (available in Home depot). It also drys out and is prone to cracking.

    Richard

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by way2fast
    Just don't use that corrugated white or black hose that they sell for bilge pump installations. It will restrict water flow by 1/3 compared to smooth wall plastic tubing (available in Home depot). It also drys out and is prone to cracking.
    Absolutely right; the clear water pipe (looks like aquarium tank hose) or reinforced pvc hose is what you want. I favor the reinforced type becuase it bends a little less and holds up under chafing. $1.69/foot and you need 4-5 feet depending on how you run it to the thru-hull fitting.

    http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...24/10001/146//

  9. #9
    Red Devil's Avatar
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    ToeSurf,

    Is that Attwood thru-hull connector part number 66547-3 / ATT665473 or 66549-3 / ATT665493. I see in your instructions "Attwood THRU HULL 3/4" Stainless fitting (1 1/8” OD)" but am not sure which is the 3/4" connector. I am trying to purchase the one with the fitting for the 3/4 inch pvc hose.

  10. #10
    so a 2005 rxp comes with a stock bilge pump?

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