Thread: Stinger removal
07-16-2006, 02:23 AM #1
Well I am taking out my stinger on my 2000 XLL for the first time and want to scream! I have been trying all different angles to get it out for about 2 hours now. It is disconnected at both ends but I can't seem to get it out of the hull! I've looked at Cajundudes removal page and some others as well...
Whats the trick??
07-16-2006, 10:10 AM #2
On the big xl skis, you must remove the head to get the stinger out. There is no angle that you can try. Remove the head and out she comes.
07-16-2006, 10:25 AM #3
Really? Thats the first time I've heard that...
07-16-2006, 10:31 AM #4
Well, I have worked on a few of these.... If there is another way I hope someone post the answer because the only way I was able to remove the stingers was to remove the head. For some odd reason there is less room in the xl skis to remove the stinger than the gprs. On my gpr I didnt have to remove the head. I know its strange because the xll is a much bigger ski but thats what I had todo.
07-16-2006, 10:53 AM #5
- Join Date
- Jul 2006
- Jacksonville, Flordia
It is easier to remove the head.
BUT- I did it another way on mine
I had my better-half hold the pipe up as high in engine bay as she could I then used a 3/8 air ratchet to remove the lower bracket that attaches to cylinder 2&3.
Once I got that out of the way the pipe would come out.
And I had to first remove the electrical box to give me some wiggle room with the stinger.
Note- To me it is much easier to just remove the head.
But I did not have a spare head gasket at the time and I planned to ride the next day so I was desperate.
07-16-2006, 06:26 PM #6
email me and I will send pics
Exhaust Chamber Removal
This installation is to be performed at your own risk!!!!
Removing the exhaust chamber may seem difficult your first time but it really is not all that difficult. Here is a basic list of tools you will need:
12 mm socket
14 mm socket
Removable thread locker
Whenever you do work on a ski it is good practice to bag and tag the pieces and bolts/nuts/washers that you take off. I use zip lock bags and a Sharpie marker. It is always a good idea to disconnect your battery before you do any of the work to your ski. Here we go:
First of all, remove your Stinger.
1.) Removing the bolts on port side: These bolts are located where the exhaust chamber meets the manifold. These are 14 mm bolts and you will need to use a swivel/universal joint and an extension to remove the two bolts closest to the hull. Note that one bolt is longer than the other three.
2.) Chamber to head bracket: Remove the 12 mm and 14mm bolts holding the square bracket that connects the exhaust chamber to the head. Now remove the spacer on the top right. Note how the spacer comes off so you can put it back together correctly. See pics below.
3.) Hose removal: Remove the hoses that connect to the exhaust chamber. The pic directly below is taken from inside the front compartment looking back. This is the hose for the starboard side pisser.
This pic is from the engine compartment looking forward:
There is another hose located on the bottom of the port side of the exhaust chamber that need to be pulled.
4.) Now you should be able to remove the exhaust chamber. Pull up on it and remove the other spacer which will come out from the bottom where the square bracket was located.
5.) Getting the exhaust chamber out of the hull is very easy if you do it just right. You must turn it counter clockwise and pull back and up all at the same time and it will slip right on out of the hull. You will have a lot of room to work with once removed.
6.) Putting exhaust chamber back: Clean the threads for the bolts before you start reassembly. You will also need to use removable thread locker on the threads. Place the two outermost port side bolts into their places before you put the exhaust chamber back into the hull. Put thread locker on these bolts. Make sure your gasket it on correctly. Replace the bottom spacer where the bracket goes before setting the exhaust chamber. Torque the bracket bolts towards the front of the bracket to 28 ft. lbs. The bolts towards the back of the bracket that attach to the cylinder head need to be torqued to 11 ft. lbs. first and then to 25 ft. lbs. Use thread locker on the forward bracket bolts but not the head bolts. Tighten the four other bolts to 28 ft. lbs. Reconnect your hoses and you are finished.
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07-16-2006, 06:28 PM #7
I got it from "Cajun Home page" may be some one can give you the link?
07-16-2006, 06:31 PM #8
I'm sorry dumb me. that is from a grp? You could still try it?
07-16-2006, 09:43 PM #9
So does anyone know how this can be done without pulling the head?
07-16-2006, 10:24 PM #10Originally Posted by Quickcdf
Its either the above or remove the head. Sorry I dont have an easy answer and I dont think there is an easy way on that model ski.
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