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  1. #1

    Dead in the water

    The "boot" at the rear of the drive shaft shredded apart while riding my 2000 Polaris SLH. I am not real familiar with the ski so i wanted to try to get help determining what parts will/may be needed to repair this and get back on the water.
    Also, both ski's bog down and stall out quite frequently when you get on the throttle and plugs foul pretty often.
    Any suggestions?


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk

    It sounds like the through-hull bearing seized up and stuck onto the drive shaft, and then the bearing carrier spun with the drive shaft and tore the rubber sleeve apart.

    That bearing has a grease fitting on top. Was it greased regularly?

    Did the hull fill with water?
    Any water get into the engine?

    You can buy a new through-hull bearing assembly, or a good used one. Click here for some parts sources.

    Click here for the Polaris Service Manuals, and lots of other good info.

    Click here for some useful maintenance information.

    Regarding the performance issues, I suspect you need to do some fuel system maintenance, including rebuilding the carburetors. Running these engines with dirty or gummed up carbs can easily cause internal engine damage.

  3. #3
    Bought only a month ago and i was told they were both serviced very recently. My brother keeps them at his house so i am not sure how many hours he put on them or whether he greased the part. The engine compartment had some water but nowhere near full.
    Any suggestions on how to confirm whether water got into the motor?

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dkcarter240 View Post
    ...Any suggestions on how to confirm whether water got into the motor?
    Has the engine been run since the incident?

    Remove the spark plugs. Crank the engine for a few seconds, confirm that no water sprays out.

    Then hold the throttle wide open, and check compression on each cylinder.

    Results for each cylinder should be less than 10% difference from highest to lowest.

    The through-hull bearing seize is an indication that previous maintenance may not have been as thorough as it should have been.

    Go through the maintenance sections of the service manual. Assume that nothing has been done before, check everything, and work through every maintenance item.

  5. #5
    Yes the engine still seems to run fine but have not removed the plugs as you suggest. I will be sure to do that!
    How likely is it the shaft itself has to be replaced &/or is there a trick to get that seized bearing off without damaging it?

  6. #6
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    get ready to write some checks

    I've done a few of these on older seadoos and polaris, the shaft is generally tore up pretty good when it gets to the point where it tears out the rubber hose.
    Get a helper set of hands and use a long steel bar from the rear of the ski to tap the bearing sleeve off the shaft. Get a big end wrench on the bearing holder to protect the aluminum from damage as you may have to wack at it for a while before it will come off. gentle heating of the housing with a SMALL torch may be needed. Cover the entire engine with a wet towel and MAKE SURE there is no gas or fumes around when you fire it up.

    After you get it apart you'll be able to see what kind of shape the shaft is in, but since the needle bearings ride right on the shaft itself, it has to be pristine.

    WSM has replacement parts for this, but they have to be obtained thru your local ski shop, I'm sure if some gh memebers have parts, you'll be heraing from them.

    I tell everybody with these thru hull sleeve bearing to buy a small grease gun, keep it in the forward store and give that fitting a shot every time they fill up to force out the water that always seems to seep in there.

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nmpeter View Post
    ...I tell everybody with these through hull sleeve bearing to buy a small grease gun, keep it in the forward store and give that fitting a shot every time they fill up to force out the water that always seems to seep in there.
    Excellent advice

    I don't keep my grease gun in the ski, but it does ride in the toolbox that I take with me in the car. Waterproof Lithium grease is not expensive (especially relative to the cost and hassle of replacing a failed bearing), and it only takes a moment to pump a gentle squeeze of grease into the through-hull bearing after each ride.

  8. #8
    This may be asking too much but will i likely need all parts listed for the Drive System? Viewing Babbots Part House...

  9. #9
    Lake Mead Bum & BTLS Mark starflight's Avatar
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    If the drive shaft has wear from the bearing/ seal, you can cut the hose (item #11) to relocate the bearing/ seal on a fresh area of the shaft, to keep from replacing the shaft.

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dkcarter240 View Post
    ...will i likely need all parts listed for the Drive System?...
    You will need the following items;

    Item 11 - 5411027 HOSE, BRG.HSG.
    Item 10 - 1341145 HOUSING,BEARING (Incl. 7-9)

    If the drive shaft is damaged and no longer smooth, then the replacement is
    Item 6 - 6230103 SHAFT, DRIVE Substituted by 6230205

    These little rubber bumpers fit on each end of the drive shaft.
    Item 5 - 5410663 BUMPER,DRIVE SHAFT (quantity 2)

    You can probably get the first three items used from John Zigler, among others.

    Or you can buy new from Babbitts, or one of the other sources listed here.
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