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  1. #1

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    removing drive shaft RXP '04

    I'm trying to do the final steps of getting my engine out. Intake and exhaust manifolds are out, so is the head. But I just can't seem to get the drive shaft off. I've read on the forum that it's best to leave the jet pump on initially and get the circlip off first. But I'm not really sure what I'm doing.

    I've attached a photo of my drivershaft assembly and numbered what I think are the key parts:

    1) The PTO rubber splashguard (turned upside down)
    2) Floating ring (???)
    3) Carbon seal
    4) Driveshaft boot

    Am I right in thinking I should be kneeling on the back of the ski, legs either side and trying to pull #2 toward the back of the boat. The circlip sits under #2? If so I can't seem to get #2 to move. I can pull the carbon seal #3 back of but I don't think I'm supposed to do that.

    Can someone let me know if I'm doing it right. I guess it could be that #2 has seized onto the actual driveshaft, if that's the case how do you remove it???

    I don't have the Seadoo tool (let me know if it would be easier if I just got it), but I'm keen to get the engine out this weekend so I can ship it to be repaired.

    Cheers... Adrian
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  2. #2
    Gotta love this sport! 05Limited's Avatar
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    Everything you have described here is exactly right... it can just be a struggle sometimes. If you ride in salt this can make the chore even more difficult. I've even had trouble with them while using the Sea Doo tool.

    Try placing one end of a 2 ft long piece of lumber on the floating ring and strike the other end with a hefty mallet. Alternate positions on the ring. This may help free it up so you can pull it back by hand. Keep pulling, tugging, and tapping and it will eventually pop back.

    Afterward, you'll grin and wonder what all the fuss was about.

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  4. #3

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    push number 2 towards the front of the boat (up to the carbon seal)

  5. #4
    2Blue's BFF! dsolie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetskibill9999 View Post
    push number 2 towards the front of the boat (up to the carbon seal)
    What??!! Uhh, wrong! Pull #2 BACK towards the carbon seal loosen the front clamp on #4 too, helps.

  6. #5

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    Great advice 05Limited (jetskibill9999 did you really mean push the floating ring towards the front?).

    Always good to be reassured before you start whacking something with a hammer! I used a short bit of wood and hit the floating ring ,towards the back of the ski. It moved pretty easily after a bit of force, doesn't look too corroded at all (and quite well lubricated).

    I popped the circlip off without assistance (just used a screwdriver on one of the ends and a tap of the hammer on the screwdrive and it popped off).

    Now to remove the jet pump, drive shaft and engine. Hopefully all done tomorrow.

  7. #6
    "" Pull #2 BACK towards the carbon seal loosen the front clamp on #4 too, helps ""

    .......... is correct

    I don't think I would whack anything in that area with a piece of lumber. Spray some WD-40 around the lip of your #2 part. The reason it's hard to pull back is there is an O-ring under that #2 part that plays a lot of interference.
    Once you work that a little it will pull back and expose the Clip. Then just pop it out with a small flat blade screwdriver.

    The Jet Pump *must* be left intact to do this since that gives something for the shaft to push against when you push back on your #2 part.

    I bought the Sea-Doo "spreader" tool to do this job, total waste of money. It is easier doing it the way you are doing it.

    One other thing, be very very careful when you pull the Drive Shaft back. There is a small hard plastic bumper (not the rubber bumper). If that Hard plastic bumper's 'fingers" are damaged you almost have to pull the PTO assy. apart to replace it since it is installed from the back side. I found a way to install one from the front, but you usually damage 2 or 3 before you get it to work. The rubber seal it must go past is very subtle rubber and can be easily damaged as well. ..... delicate area with some delicate parts considering the hardened SSteel Drive Shaft which passes through it all.

    -DvD

  8. #7
    Gotta love this sport! 05Limited's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David_HX_RXP View Post
    ... I don't think I would whack anything in that area with a piece of lumber...
    I wouldn't either... you place the lumber (I use a 2x2) against the ring, then you wack the lumber.

    Maybe I should use the terms "piece of wooden stock" and "gently tap" so the process doesn't sound so abrupt... then again, it usually ends up requiring a "wack"!

  9. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by 05Limited View Post
    I wouldn't either... you place the lumber (I use a 2x2) against the ring, then you wack the lumber.

    Maybe I should use the terms "piece of wooden stock" and "gently tap" so the process doesn't sound so abrupt... then again, it usually ends up requiring a "wack"!
    Stop "wacking around" Jeff

  10. #9
    AKA: Larry lafjax's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David_HX_RXP View Post
    Spray some WD-40 around the lip of your #2 part. The reason it's hard to pull back is there is an O-ring under that #2 part that plays a lot of interference.
    Or get some PB Blaster and spray it down let it sit for awhile and get that floating ring out a there...

  11. #10
    Got Boost? psycho rxp's Avatar
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    Sometimes the drive shaft moves back with that floating ring, so what I do is pull off the pump assy, and place a rather large nut(5/8, or 3/4) in the prop past the nose cone, then re install the pump with 2 bolts, but just snug it up , don't tighten too much, then u can tap/pry on that ring, and the shaft will stay put. also use the same process to re install the clips.

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