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  1. #1

    Talking nearly perfect 2000 Polaris SLH my First! Questions

    Hello,

    I recently purchased my first PWC. It was a close friends neighbors who rode it but very moderately. It has nearly no rust or anything wrong with it. After cleaning the fuel and oil tanks, lines etc... and a new battery it has ran like brand new. I unfortunately am quite large for it (250 Lbs). I bottomed it once kinda fast and I run it very hard.

    This weekend I heard a new sound. It ran sorta weird but the engine seemed fine.` I used to be an aircraft mechanic so I am fully comfortable being my own mech. I got the manual downloaded and it seems pretty good.

    Upon inspection I found the impeller to be lose. I looked up through the grate and can see impeller is sitting off the splines a bit and I can see a seal on that shaft.

    I pulled of the (?) steering thing (?) with the 4 long bolts. I also noticed a crack on the steering thing where the steer rod connects so I need to get a new one of those. My question is under the cone is there something I can tighten up to snug the impeller back up or are my problems going to require me to pull the entire drive section out?

    Since I am going to be digging in to the drive/impeller can any of you suggest any after market parts I could use instead of original replacement parts to improve the performance?

    I love the little thing. It cuts up in the water like no other ski's I see out there and is a blast to ride. I would also like any after market things I could do to improve the porpoising.

    I am also about to buy a new ski. Either a 2008 RTX-X for 10999, 2009 GTX 155 for 10699 or 2009 GTI for 9699. I am also going to take a look and see if there are any of those Yamaha FX Cruiser SHO left overs from 2008 at a good price.

    I would love some suggestions on which you think would suit me best. I want stability on the water unlike I get with the Polaris LHS. The RTX-X looks perfect but I will be riding on a bay or ocean near Destin Florida. I do not want to get the RTX-X if I wont be able to ride it in moderately rough waters. It seems to have simlar size as the GTX and even larger than the GTI. I only have the tiny Polairs LHS to compare it to and one ride on a GTI which was like a cadilac in comparison.

    So I guess Im looking for Stabilty first and speed second at the best price or deal I can get. If that RTX is going to be smooth enough then it seems the best deal I have found. Will a turbo charged Ski cause me a lot more headaches than its worth?

    Thanks all,

    Please feel free to school me up on both names of ski parts and any other ski lingo cause I am officialy a newb. I prefer to purchase what I want right now rather than looking to upgrade later. Having said that I do not want to poor 16k into a single 2009 GTX LI either lol they are crazy expensive.

    Jerry


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk

    You have a 2000 SLH - correct?

    You will need to pull the jet pump right out, and the drive shaft.

    The manual has information about how the jet pump fits together, and the online Polaris parts diagrams can be useful.

    I suspect that the bearings inside the pump stator (the part with fixed blades) have failed.

    When you separate the pump sections, you will find the impeller is threaded onto a stub shaft. That stub shaft runs through the center of the stator.

    There should be zero play or slop in the impeller bearings. It should just turn smoothly, with no gritty fell or grinding. If the impeller can wobble or move up and down on the shaft, or it does not spin smoothly, the bearings are toast.

    With the stator on the bench, remove the three small bolts from the tail cone. Now hold the stator with the tail cone pointing down, and wiggle it off the stator. It may be tight, but it will come off.

    Sometimes there is water in the outer part of the tail cone, and pointing it down keeps the water from falling into the actual bearings inside.

    Once the tail cone is off, you will see the end of the stub shaft. It has two flat sides, so you can put a wrench on it, or hold it in a vice.

    The impeller is torqued to 100ft-lbs with Loctite, so you will need to purchase the splined impeller tool to unscrew the impeller.

    Some guys use the drive shaft with a pipe wrench to loosen the impeller, but I am not a fan of hacking up the drive shaft.

    Inspect the splines on both ends of the drive shaft. They should be square and not worn down. Also inspect the splines inside the impeller, and inside the drive couple on the engine. Do not stick your finger in there to check - metal splinters are no fun.

    Don't lose the little rubber bumpers that are on both ends of the drive shaft.

    Also inspect the outer edges of the impeller blades. If they are worn, then the impeller needs to be repaired or replaced. If the impeller diameter is OK, check the leading edges for damage.

    Same for the stator blades - very small nicks can be filed smooth, but bigger chinks missing will affect performance.

    When you have good bearings, thread the impeller on, and check for clearance to the wear ring that surrounds the impeller.

    Maximum impeller to wear ring clearance is 0.020", and a good jet pump will measure 0.010" or tighter. But the blades should never touch the wear ring, just turn very close inside.

    Let us know what you find, and we can go from there.

  3. #3
    Where do you live?? There's quite a few Kawasaki 15f's around new for sale. There were a few going for $5999 a while back, now they have settled to around $6499. In my opinion, still the best deal on a 3 seater out there. there's also some hondas on ebay for $6499-6999 that are leftover new o7 and 08's that seem suitable for your size and weight. There was just a kawasaki 12f on ebay for $5245+about $350 freight setup. $5600 for a new 07 or 08 3 seater another great deal. There yesterday, gone today. I would put a 500 mile radius from where you live(8hr drive) so if you find a bargain, you can make the trip in one day and pay your self $100-200 an hour for the driving.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbh02 View Post
    ...I am also about to buy a new ski. Either a 2008 RTX-X for 10999, 2009 GTX 155 for 10699 or 2009 GTI for 9699. I am also going to take a look and see if there are any of those Yamaha FX Cruiser SHO left overs from 2008 at a good price.

    I would love some suggestions on which you think would suit me best. I want stability on the water unlike I get with the Polaris SLH.

    The RTX-X looks perfect but I will be riding on a bay or ocean near Destin Florida. I do not want to get the RTX-X if I won't be able to ride it in moderately rough waters. It seems to have similar size as the GTX and even larger than the GTI.

    I only have the tiny Polaris SLH to compare it to and one ride on a GTI which was like a Cadillac in comparison.

    So I guess I'm looking for Stability first and speed second at the best price or deal I can get. If that RTX is going to be smooth enough then it seems the best deal I have found. Will a turbo charged Ski cause me a lot more headaches than its worth?

    Thanks all,

    Please feel free to school me up on both names of ski parts and any other ski lingo cause I am officially a newb.

    I prefer to purchase what I want right now rather than looking to upgrade later. Having said that I do not want to poor 16k into a single 2009 GTX LI either lol they are crazy expensive.

    Jerry
    Click here for a video introduction to PWC basics.

    The Polaris SLH (if that is what you have) is a smooth water hull. It is a compact 2-seater, light weight design (about 500lbs).

    Polaris made other PWC models that can handle rough water better, and there are modifications available to improve the ride and rough water handling of the SLH.

    In general, the primay factors affecting PWC rough water ride and handling is the hull bottom design, and the hull bottom length (the part that is actually in the water).

    The deeper the vee 'V' of the hull bottom, the better the ride. And the longer the hull bottom, the smoother the ride. The PWC weight is another factor.

    One of the best rough water hulls on the market is the Kawasaki Ultra hull, and the Ultra 250 weighs over 1,000lbs.

    The Kawasaki 15F is well regarded, but I don't think it is as good in the rough as the Ultra.

    Other new PWC models that are being well received for rough water ride are the new Yamaha FZR and FZS, and the new Sea-Doo IS models.

    If you can, find some other Green Hulk members who ride in your area, and talk to them. Some may even allow you to test ride their machines, but that is a personal decision, and many owners are not comfortable letting someone else drive.

    Taking you for a ride as a passenger shouldn't be so much of an issue, but at least offer to pay for the fuel.

    The only PWC that is turbocharged from the factory are the Hondas. The other high powered models are all supercharged. Superchargers add complexity and maintenance issues, but they do create a lot of power and speed potential. And faster fuel consumption

    The naturally aspirated engines generally offer better fuel economy, but again it is best to talk to the people who ride them.

    Spend some time in the forums here reading what the owners have to say about their rides, and go from there.

  5. #5
    The ultra will have the better ride, but when you throw the polaris models in the mix, they will compare to the 15f better than the ultra. He also says price, even the ultra LX will fare no better than $7799 from what I've seen. I guess we need to take into consideration how much $$ he's wanting to spend. Seeing as he has a SLH, any 3 seater will be a world of difference compared to the 2 seater.

  6. #6
    Now that I'm reading he's looking at $11K skiis, the leftover Ultra 250's are probably the best deal for the money in his situation. Several can be had for about $8999 new. Hopefully in his area.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Welcome to the Hulk

    You have a 2000 SLH - correct?

    You will need to pull the jet pump right out, and the drive shaft.

    The manual has information about how the jet pump fits together, and the online Polaris parts diagrams can be useful.

    I suspect that the bearings inside the pump stator (the part with fixed blades) have failed.

    When you separate the pump sections, you will find the impeller is threaded onto a stub shaft. That stub shaft runs through the center of the stator.

    There should be zero play or slop in the impeller bearings. It should just turn smoothly, with no gritty fell or grinding. If the impeller can wobble or move up and down on the shaft, or it does not spin smoothly, the bearings are toast.

    With the stator on the bench, remove the three small bolts from the tail cone. Now hold the stator with the tail cone pointing down, and wiggle it off the stator. It may be tight, but it will come off.

    Sometimes there is water in the outer part of the tail cone, and pointing it down keeps the water from falling into the actual bearings inside.

    Once the tail cone is off, you will see the end of the stub shaft. It has two flat sides, so you can put a wrench on it, or hold it in a vice.

    The impeller is torqued to 100ft-lbs with Loctite, so you will need to purchase the splined impeller tool to unscrew the impeller.

    Some guys use the drive shaft with a pipe wrench to loosen the impeller, but I am not a fan of hacking up the drive shaft.

    Inspect the splines on both ends of the drive shaft. They should be square and not worn down. Also inspect the splines inside the impeller, and inside the drive couple on the engine. Do not stick your finger in there to check - metal splinters are no fun.

    Don't lose the little rubber bumpers that are on both ends of the drive shaft.

    Also inspect the outer edges of the impeller blades. If they are worn, then the impeller needs to be repaired or replaced. If the impeller diameter is OK, check the leading edges for damage.

    Same for the stator blades - very small nicks can be filed smooth, but bigger chinks missing will affect performance.

    When you have good bearings, thread the impeller on, and check for clearance to the wear ring that surrounds the impeller.

    Maximum impeller to wear ring clearance is 0.020", and a good jet pump will measure 0.010" or tighter. But the blades should never touch the wear ring, just turn very close inside.

    Let us know what you find, and we can go from there.
    Thanks a lot for you help. I have everything disconected and just need to pry it from the hull. DO I need to do anything with the shaft befor getting the bump off the hull? Lot of sealant there.

    Also the cone came off and I got a hand full of bearing . I can see the stub shaft is damaged and I can see through the other end of the stator so that bearing is gone too. The back side of the impeller seems ok as far as the shaft and spline back there (from what I can see from the grate area.

    I need to get the pump off the hull now. Any suggestions on how to get it out with all that sealant on there? Will the shaft disengage the impeller or am I missing a stop there?
    Oh looks like im going to have to rebuild a bit of the pump drive so any performance parts you can suggest please do.

    As for the new ski. I want to get one where I can ride comfortably (even slow)in rough waves but also can run fast on smoother days. Price wise I am looking at 08 models in hopes of getting a nice discount on a new 08 vs a 09. The RXT-X seems to have a good size hull for comfort slow riding on rough days and speed any other time. I do not mind giving up comfort for speed but I do not want to have to sit on the shore when its rougher out there.

    While I find speed important it is not worth excessive cost in maintenance.
    The ONLY reason I am talking about that RXT-X is it seemed a very nice price at 10999.00 from 13299.00 and it was Sea Doos flag high speed 3 seater for 08. Would an 08 FT Cruiser SHO be a better choice maybe?

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbh02 View Post
    Thanks a lot for you help. I have everything disconnected and just need to pry it from the hull. Do I need to do anything with the shaft before getting the pump off the hull? Lot of sealant there.

    Also the cone came off and I got a hand full of bearing . I can see the stub shaft is damaged and I can see through the other end of the stator so that bearing is gone too. The back side of the impeller seems ok as far as the shaft and spline back there (from what I can see from the grate area.

    I need to get the pump off the hull now. Any suggestions on how to get it out with all that sealant on there? Will the shaft disengage the impeller or am I missing a step there?

    Oh looks like I'm going to have to rebuild a bit of the pump drive so any performance parts you can suggest please do...
    Did you read the service manual section regarding jet pump removal?

    The only bolts you needed to remove are the four LONG bolts that clamp the exit nozzle onto the back of the pump.

    Do not remove the nuts from the pump base studs - they need to stay put. The pump base stays sealed to the hull.

    Assuming you have undone the steering and other small connections to the nozzle, you remove the nozzle. Now you simply wiggle and pull on the jet pump body. It will come straight back out of the hull. It often sticks, so be prepared for it to let go!

    If it is really stuck in there, a 2x4 to lever the pump left and right can help. Do not force the pump way out of line to either side, just a little back and forth to loosen it up.

    Now pull the pump straight out. Often the drive shaft will come out too. That is OK.

    The drive shaft can now be pulled straight out of the impeller. Again, it might be stuck, so be careful when it comes free.

    Now, which Polaris model do you have? Is it an SLH?

    You easily can rebuild the stator with new bearings and replacement stub shaft.

    If your existing jet pump stator has five blades, it is made from aluminum. There is a better stainless steel stator that has six blades.

    What condition is your impeller in? If it is badly worn or damaged, then you have some options.

    Let us know what you have now, in what condition, and we can go from there.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Did you read the service manual section regarding jet pump removal?

    The only bolts you needed to remove are the four LONG bolts that clamp the exit nozzle onto the back of the pump.

    Do not remove the nuts from the pump base studs - they need to stay put. The pump base stays sealed to the hull.

    Assuming you have undone the steering and other small connections to the nozzle, you remove the nozzle. Now you simply wiggle and pull on the jet pump body. It will come straight back out of the hull. It often sticks, so be prepared for it to let go!

    If it is really stuck in there, a 2x4 to lever the pump left and right can help. Do not force the pump way out of line to either side, just a little back and forth to loosen it up.

    Now pull the pump straight out. Often the drive shaft will come out too. That is OK.

    The drive shaft can now be pulled straight out of the impeller. Again, it might be stuck, so be careful when it comes free.

    Now, which Polaris model do you have? Is it an SLH?

    You easily can rebuild the stator with new bearings and replacement stub shaft.

    If your existing jet pump stator has five blades, it is made from aluminum. There is a better stainless steel stator that has six blades.

    What condition is your impeller in? If it is badly worn or damaged, then you have some options.

    Let us know what you have now, in what condition, and we can go from there.
    I will work on prying that off after work tomorrow. The stator is 5 vanes and it is an SLH PWC.

    Thank you for all your help. I guess the part with the impeller and the stator will just pop off the part (base)attached to the hull?

    I will attach some pictures tomorrow once I get the thing pried out.

  10. #10

    Red face ok all apart now

    Here are some pictures and I look forward to putting it all back together with same or performance parts. Is it possible to get a choke lever part for the handle? Kid next door broke it heh.

    Not sure where to look for the parts.



    Last edited by CrazyA; 06-28-2009 at 12:32 PM.

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