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  1. #1
    RCS's Avatar
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    00xp surging above 5000 rpm

    Started suddenly over the weekend. Rode around at first and was fine. Went to take my daughter for a ride and above 5k it would surge up and down. Took the caps off the raves, no luck. Put it back on the trailer and pulled the sediment bowl, no trash, pulled the front carb filter, nothing. Will need to get better tools to look at the rear carb, but at this moment it really does not seem like fuel delivery. I have been having an issue with the raves becoming extremly nasty after rides. Not sure if that has anything to do with it. Is there anything electrical that I should take a look at? Anyone ever had this problem?


  2. #2
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    Did I forget to reply to your PM? Sorry man! Remove the fuel selctor switch. I had to remove mine last weekend, the RES inlet was completely plugged. Is it idling excessively high too? Or taking a while to settle down from a rev, when on the trailer?

  3. #3
    RCS's Avatar
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    This is on top of the PM. Actually it idles quite well on the trailer, plus it runs fine, other than a bog around 3700-4000 if you get on it, up to 5000. It then just surges up to 6500 and back down to 4000. Back and forth untill you let off. I read somewhere about may be a wear ring issue when researching. I still have not swapped the WSM with the OEM I bought last year. When tubing last weekend I noticed a bad cavitation. I am going to pull it tommorrow and take a look. Probably go ahead and swap it out as well. I just pulled the fuel sender, it was perfect, as well as the lines. They are grey but look fine, no goop. I am thinking they were changed before I bought the boat. The clamps where not OEM. I am stumped on this one. I did change the spark plugs. I probably will clip the wires and put the old ones back in and drop it into the pond tomorrow if I have time.
    I am stumped on my 717 as well. It starts and runs perfect. Well until it seizes that front piston. I am wondering if the clearance was too tight on the front cylinder. It is not a water leak, might be an air leak. Damn boats........ I may start a thread on it and see what David has to say.

  4. #4
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    By "pulling the sender" you meant the selector switch? Good deal if that was clean.

    If you had cavitation before, your wear ring is probably toast. I don't really see how a worn wear ring can cause surging. Mine was 180 degrees chewed up and never missed a beat on max rpms, and still kept Shooter's faster setup at Norris behind me, with Tara on the back of my ski two-up.

    Any rpm loss normally equates to internal filter screens clogged in the carbs.

  5. #5
    RCS's Avatar
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    Not the fuel selector, the part in the tank. Have not figured out how to get to the selector yet. It is in a tight spot. The front screen was fine the rear screen is going to be a beotch to check since it is under the pipe. I am going to try that after work tomorrow.

  6. #6
    96XPSS's Avatar
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    The selector has a rubber cap/plug in the middle, pry it out with a small blade screwdriver. Then remove the phillips screw. Then work the knob off, you may have to carefully pry it on the edges. Then loosen the plastic nut underneath. The switch will then pop inside the hull (catch the rubber washer with your hand) and you can fish it out by the engine by snipping a couple zip ties. If it has screw clamps, it's been off before.

  7. #7
    SURFnTURF's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RCS View Post
    , pulled the front carb filter, nothing. Will need to get better tools to look at the rear carb, but at this moment it really does not seem like fuel delivery.
    You need to verify that the grey fuel lines are not the Tempo branded ones as they are "crap" .If so all those from fuel tank to carbs have to be changed. Remove the raves and clean them up so they have a smooth continuous action from top to bottom.
    Surging is almost always connected to fuel delivery as it dictates engine revs. Fuel delivery can be fuel pump pressure low,fuel tank not venting correctly,fuel/res selector valve dirty these are where I would start first.
    Oh, the screen filters are inside the carbys so how did you just get the front carb off without the rear as they have a mounting plate at the top that joins the two together ??? as well as the fuel hose that joins the two

  8. #8
    RCS's Avatar
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    Front carb is easy to access without removing, just remove the fuel pump, four screws and it is off. I am going to go through it, I also read something about the o-ring on the sediment bowl. Sounds like it could be many things. Ughh. Went from all three boats working to nothing working.....

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by 96XPSS View Post
    Did I forget to reply to your PM? Sorry man! Remove the fuel selctor switch. I had to remove mine last weekend, the RES inlet was completely plugged. Is it idling excessively high too? Or taking a while to settle down from a rev, when on the trailer?
    What if it does take a bit to settle down from a rev on trailer?

  10. #10
    KrunchovXPL-GTX-RX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STL2SLO View Post
    What if it does take a bit to settle down from a rev on trailer?
    That would indicate that it is running lean.

    As for the fuel selector, once you have it off, as RQ described, you can also get to it via the hole under the seat which I assume you know about if you pulled the baffle out. There should be enough slack in the fuel lines to go either way so it is your choice.

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