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  1. #1

    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Lawrenceville Ga.
    Posts
    10

    Polaris Virage I issues

    Hello,

    I bought a 2002 Virage I with the engine locked up. 8 months ago I pulled the engine out. After finding out one cylinder was cracked. I ordered parts hopefully to fix it pretty quick. So much for that plan. I just got the engine back together and reinstalled today. The engine turns over fine and tries to start. But not quite. It has old gas in it so I am going to pump it out tomorrow. My question is that I have a two wire connector left over that I cannot find where it goes. It has one pink wire with blue stripe and a black wire. In the drawings it saws that the air temperture sensor has a pink wire, blue stripe and a black wire. Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction.

    Glenn



  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by thinglenn40 View Post
    ...I bought a 2002 Virage I with the engine locked up. 8 months ago I pulled the engine out. After finding out one cylinder was cracked. I ordered parts hopefully to fix it pretty quick. So much for that plan. I just got the engine back together and reinstalled today.

    The engine turns over fine and tries to start. But not quite.

    It has old gas in it so I am going to pump it out tomorrow.

    My question is that I have a two wire connector left over that I cannot find where it goes. It has one pink wire with blue stripe and a black wire. In the drawings it saws that the air temperature sensor has a pink wire, blue stripe and a black wire...
    Welcome to the Hulk

    This problem should be in its own thread. A moderator may move it for us at some point

    The air temp sensor is mounted to the bottom of the flame arrestor base. With the flame arrestor cover removed, you will see a round rubber 'button' in the base. The connector is underneath that button. Reach under, and plug it in. The connector only goes in one way.

    Once you have good gasoline in the tank (89 octane minimum), check the fuel pressure. The fuel pump starts as soon as the engine starts cranking.

    Make sure you have put the safety lanyard in place under the stop button.

    Also confirm that you have proper voltage on the White/Red fuel injector wires (with both injectors still plugged in). During cranking, you should have over 20 volts on White/Red. As soon as the engine starts, the injector voltage should jump to over 40 volts.

    If still no start, unplug the TPS on the rear of the throttle body, and try to start it. Sometimes the TPS goes bad, and the EMM refuses to start the engine.

    If still no start, dribble a little fuel down each throttle body, and crank it.

  3. #3

    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Lawrenceville Ga.
    Posts
    10
    Thanks for the reply. I found the answer to the air temp sensor after posting. After fooling around trying to get the engine started for about an hour I gave up since I had spent most of the day installing it. The next day my son trys to start it, switches the plug wires and it fires right UP! I had tried this the day before but I must have flooded it first.

    We took it to the lake and ran it for around an hour. It seemed to run okay and did not overheat. When I bought it it had a cracked cylinder and the engine was frozen. It has 47 hours on it. The stator had been changed some time before I bought it.

    Is there anything I should look out for on this model?

    Glenn

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thinglenn40 View Post
    ...took it to the lake and ran it for around an hour. It seemed to run okay and did not overheat.

    When I bought it it had a cracked cylinder and the engine was frozen. It has 47 hours on it.

    The stator had been changed some time before I bought it.

    Is there anything I should look out for on this model?...
    Glad to hear you got it going

    It is a work in progress, but click here for some Ficht engine service and maintenance tips.

    Minimum octane gasoline is 89, not 87.

    Only use the specified spark plugs.

    Some good parts sources are listed here.

    Keep the through-hull bearing lubricated. Use a good quality marine waterproof bearing grease. Put a squeeze of grease in after every ride, if you can.

    Many machines survive with very infrequent greasing, but grease is cheap insurance, and it only takes a few seconds while you are doing the post ride inspection.

    If you notice a problem, don't keep riding until the problem has been addressed.

    Make note of the maximum sustained RPM at WOT. Record the RPM. If the maximum RPM decreases, that means the engine is down on power. Max RPM should normally be around 6700-6900RPM.

    Use a good quality 2-stroke oil (TC-W3 or better). Synthetic oil is best if you are OK with the cost. Do not use Sea-Doo 2-stroke oil - it is different.

    Put fuel stabilizer in the tank if the machine will be sitting for more than a few weeks. If I am not sure when I will be riding next, I put stabilizer in with every tankful.

    Keep the fuel tank full when it is not going to be ridden (less moisture condensation in the tank).

    Beyond that, review the maintenance section int he service manual, and enjoy the ride!

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