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  1. #1

    polaris freedom spark plug mashed by piston

    Help, I have a polaris freedom that is mashing the side electrode
    to the center electrode. It will work fine after switching plugs
    for a while. It seams that this only happens at WOT.

    It ran fine all last year and just started doing this.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks in advance
    I'm blue 'no va'.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk

    The only way the spark plug electrode can be damaged is if something has physically come loose inside the engine, and this material has whacked into the spark plug.

    Remove the cylinder head, and inspect the piston. I suspect you will find the piston and cylinder head have damage.

    The question is whether the damage is limited to the upper section of the engine, or if the crank shaft bearings have failed.

    Post some clear and in focus photos of the piston top, the cylinder walls, and inside of the cylinder head, and we can tell you what the next steps should be

  3. #3

    thanks

    Didn't think that it could be something in the cylinder causing it.
    Wouldn't something small get blown out the exhaust?

    Will get the pics this weekend.
    also will do a compression test,
    and see if I can vacuum out the
    cylinder.

    Thanks for the input

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blue_nova View Post
    Didn't think that it could be something in the cylinder causing it.
    Wouldn't something small get blown out the exhaust?

    and see if I can vacuum out the cylinder...
    The damage that I expect you will find is more severe than just needing a vacuuming.

    Usually a damaged spark plug means that the piston has broken apart, or the roller bearings from the connecting rod have come apart, and worked their way up into the combustion chamber.

    In either case, the cylinder head needs to come off, and probably the cylinder itself.

    Then at a minimum you replace the piston and rings, and the piston wrist pin bearing. Often you also need to have the cylinder honed or re-bored.

    If the lower connecting rod bearing is the one that has failed, then the entire crank shaft must come out of the engine, and be sent to a crank shaft rebuilding shop.

  5. #5

    wow it looks bad

    I got the large exhaust pipe loose but can't remove it due to clearance.
    I removed the 4 bolts on the part of the manifold that attaches to the cylinder.

    I have pounded and pried but I can't get the small part of the manifold that
    bolts to the cylinder to come loose. Unfortunately the service manual does not show a diagram or provide instructions.

    Thanks in advance

    I'm blue no va
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  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blue_nova View Post
    ...Unfortunately the service manual does not show a diagram or provide instructions...
    Does the attached SL700 diagram help?

    You can find online parts diagrams here, and downloadable parts manuals here.

    The exhaust manifold is listed under 'Cooling System'
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  7. #7
    casey67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blue_nova View Post
    I got the large exhaust pipe loose but can't remove it due to clearance.
    I removed the 4 bolts on the part of the manifold that attaches to the cylinder.

    I have pounded and pried but I can't get the small part of the manifold that
    bolts to the cylinder to come loose. Unfortunately the service manual does not show a diagram or provide instructions.

    Thanks in advance

    I'm blue no va
    There are 3 exhaust bolts for evey cylinder (total 6 on 700) The bolts are arranged in a " Y" pattern 2 at top,1 lower center bolt.

  8. #8

    thanks,

    Those other two bolts were hidden pretty well. but that did the trick.

    So the damage looks limited to the piston, cylinder, and cylinder head.

    The lower bearing looks good. How does one tell?

    Also, to repair this, can anyone recommend a shop and any idea
    on a ballpark cost?

    Thanks again

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blue_nova View Post
    ...So the damage looks limited to the piston, cylinder, and cylinder head.

    The lower bearing looks good.
    How does one tell?

    Also, to repair this, can anyone recommend a shop and any idea
    on a ballpark cost?...
    The lower end of the connecting rod should have essentially zero play up and down, and no wobble side to side. It should be able to slide sideways on the bearing a little bit.

    Any grinding or other noises as you move the rod back and forth are no good.

    The next step would be to remove the pin through the piston, and verify that the upper rod end bearing is the one that failed.

    Is the piston in one piece, or is the skirt fractured?

  10. #10

    piston bearing pics

    >The lower end of the connecting rod should have essentially zero play up >and down, and no wobble side to side. It should be able to slide sideways on >the bearing a little bit.
    No play, no wobble, a little slide side to side.

    >Any grinding or other noises as you move the rod back and forth are no >good.
    No grinding, turns nicely

    >The next step would be to remove the pin through the piston, and verify >that the upper rod end bearing is the one that failed.ng
    Upper bearing seems ok, it was missing a clip on one side.

    >Is the piston in one piece, or is the skirt fractured?
    The piston is in one piece. The top is chipped off on one side and the upper parts of the top ring is missing. The sides of the piston are scored
    and the base has some chew marks on it. see pics.

    Thanks
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