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  1. #1
    joefedererjr
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    Smile Newbie needing Polaris SLH Fuel issue help ??

    First of all, great forum and appreciate any help. I have a 2000 Polaris SLH 700 cc unit with a single carb. It was running great last season, but it had some bogging issues when I got it running this season. So I have already done the following:

    1) replaced all the fuel lines.
    2) replaced all the gas and fuel filter.
    3) pulled the 40 mm Keihin carb (single unit) and had it professionally rebuilt.


    Now I seem to have two other issues ??

    1) no display on the MFD --- checked fuses and battery connections.
    2) no fuel coming from the fuel sender line ??

    So I am not sure if the MFD controls the fuel sender or just displays the fuel level ?? I think if I can get fuel flowing again, the new carb rebuild will work great.... and the Ski will run.

    Then I can focus on how to fix or replace the MFD ??

    Any suggestions on the Fuel issue ??

    Many thanks to all...
    joejr.

    :}


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    Click here for the service manual, and links to other useful info

    The MFD display has nothing to do with fuel flow. It only monitors the electrical signal from the fuel level sender, which also has nothing to do with fuel flow.

    Before we get into the fuel system, I must ask you to confirm that the battery polarity is connected correctly. Red is positive.

    I suspect you have gotten one or more fuel lines switched around when you changed the fuel hoses.

    The hose fittings on the top of the tank look similar, but each must connect to the correct hose.

    Make sure the return hose coming back from the carb directly to the tank, is actually connected to the return nipple on the tank.

    Also confirm that the tank vent hose is connected to the vent connection on the tank.

  3. #3
    joefedererjr
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    Smile checking items

    I will double check all your suggestions now. I appreciate your help.


    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Welcome :)

    Click here for the service manual, and links to other useful info ;)

    The MFD display has nothing to do with fuel flow. It only monitors the electrical signal from the fuel level sender, which also has nothing to do with fuel flow.

    Before we get into the fuel system, I must ask you to confirm that the battery polarity is connected correctly. Red is positive.

    I suspect you have gotten one or more fuel lines switched around when you changed the fuel hoses.

    The hose fittings on the top of the tank look similar, but each must connect to the correct hose.

    Make sure the return hose coming back from the carb directly to the tank, is actually connected to the return nipple on the tank.

    Also confirm that the tank vent hose is connected to the vent connection on the tank.

  4. #4
    joefedererjr
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Atlanta, Ga
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    Smile fuel lines OK, but battery is marginal.

    I did double check all the fuel lines, making sure the vent lines are connected properly, and the rest as requested. The battery seems to be marginal now, and so I will replace it.

    Once I get the new battery charged, and installed. I will update.

    Thanks so far. Joejr.

    Quote Originally Posted by joefedererjr View Post
    I will double check all your suggestions now. I appreciate your help.

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Also make sure the pulse hose is in place from the crank case side nipple up to the carb. This hose powers the fuel pump.

  6. #6
    joefedererjr
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    Smile

    Thanks... Ok I will check that as well. I beleive it is back in place, but I will double check. I did get a new battery tonight, and will try again in the AM.

    A follow on question please. Do I need to "prime" the newly rebuilt carb ??

    Before the carb was rebuilt, I could see fuel flowing into it... so I am not sure of the newly rebuilt fuel pump, with no gas in it initially needs to be "primed" so it can help pull fuel from the fuel tank, or is the fuel sender suppose to send the fuel to the fuel pump / carb ??

    If so, what is the best way to "prime" the newly rebuilt carb ??
    Thanks so much.

    joejr

    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Also make sure the pulse hose is in place from the crank case side nipple up to the carb. This hose powers the fuel pump.

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by joefedererjr View Post
    ...Do I need to "prime" the newly rebuilt carb ??

    Before the carb was rebuilt, I could see fuel flowing into it... so I am not sure of the newly rebuilt fuel pump, with no gas in it initially needs to be "primed" so it can help pull fuel from the fuel tank, or is the fuel sender suppose to send the fuel to the fuel pump / carb ??

    If so, what is the best way to "prime" the newly rebuilt carb ?...
    The fuel tank 'sender' is just a tube than extends down inside the tank.

    The fuel pump at the engine creates suction, which draws the fuel up from the tank, and then to the carb(s).

    The more important lines to prime are the oil lines. If there is air in the oil lines, the engine won't get oil for a while, since the oil pumps much more slowly than the gas.

    If the oil lines have some air in them, or you just want to be safe, pre-mix some 2-stroke oil into the fuel tank. About 50:1 ratio should be enough.

    Once trick for 'unprimed' fuel lines is to squirt a little gas down each carb throat, then start the engine. The engine will start fairly quickly and run for a few seconds until the dribble of fuel is burned off. While the engine is running, it is also powering the fuel pump.

    Do this two or three times, and the fuel lines should be fully charged and feeding the carb.

  8. #8
    joefedererjr
    Join Date
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    Smile Spot on K447 -- it is now running, and idling, but not full throttle ??

    Thanks K447.

    Your suggestions are right on. I installed the new battery, double checked my crankcase line, and realized I did have it connected wrong. Fixed that issue, added some oil to the gas.... and the Polaris jet ski fired right up. Thanks for all your spot on suggestions. You know your stuff for sure.

    So right now, here is where things stand:

    • Runs, idles and sounds good.
    • Without a load, it seems to rev up up and sounds good.
    But once on the water, the jet ski would idle fine, start fine, but would not allow me to rev over 3500 rpm.... as it would boog down... and run rough. I could not get it to run WOT... or above 3500 rpm.

    So I stopped. checked the oil line, all the other fuel lines, and looked for any other leaks, nothing obvious. Again, just to make sure, I have pulled out all the old fuel, put in fresh BP 93 oct, all new fuel lines, new fuel filters, fully rebuilt carb (by a local professional), and a new battery. So now the SLH starts well, and idles well, just not run hard ??

    Help ??

    I can not find any high speed needle adjustment on my 2000 Polaris SLH 700 cc unit with a single 40mm Keihin JE carb.

    Any other suggestions or things for me to check ??

    Many, many thanks !!!

    joejr

    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    The fuel tank 'sender' is just a tube than extends down inside the tank.

    The fuel pump at the engine creates suction, which draws the fuel up from the tank, and then to the carb(s).

    The more important lines to prime are the oil lines. If there is air in the oil lines, the engine won't get oil for a while, since the oil pumps much more slowly than the gas.

    If the oil lines have some air in them, or you just want to be safe, pre-mix some 2-stroke oil into the fuel tank. About 50:1 ratio should be enough.

    Once trick for 'unprimed' fuel lines is to squirt a little gas down each carb throat, then start the engine. The engine will start fairly quickly and run for a few seconds until the dribble of fuel is burned off. While the engine is running, it is also powering the fuel pump.

    Do this two or three times, and the fuel lines should be fully charged and feeding the carb.

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by joefedererjr View Post
    T...on the water, the jet ski would idle fine, start fine, but would not allow me to rev over 3500 rpm.... as it would bog down... and run rough. I could not get it to run WOT... or above 3500 rpm.

    ...put in fresh BP 93 oct, all new fuel lines, new fuel filters, fully rebuilt carb (by a local professional), and a new battery...
    Sounds like one or both cylinders isn't producing full power, or the carb isn't delivering the fuel.

    If you partially or fully apply the choke, does the problem get better or worse?

    Do you have the correct spark plugs installed?

    Check the spark plug caps and wires for correct resistances.

    On some engines, you can unscrew the spark plug caps, trim the wire back about 1/4", and screw it back on. This sometimes corrects a poor contact inside the plug cap to the wire end.

    Have you checked cylinder compression?

  10. #10
    joefedererjr
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    Smile Loss of power when WOT ??

    Thanks.

    I do have to use the choke to help get things working, and it does help to have some choke on until the unit warms up. So yes, some choke is used.

    Also, I have read and understand the importance of the correct resistance type spark plugs. I only use the Polaris recommended NKG res type spark plugs, NGK BPR8ES. Both are new in the last week or two. I did pull both spark plugs today, and both are good and black with fuel residue. Not burning lean..

    I did not check the gaps, but I will. Good point.

    Also, good point to check the spark plug wires, for any issues. I will.
    I will also see if the spark plug "caps" are clean, or can be moved as you suggest and we re-connect them.

    I have experienced that "break down" problem before in some older cars with bad rotor caps. Maybe a break down in one of the spark plug wires... interesting area to check.

    I have not perfrom a compression check lately, but I will. Before I had any fuel issues this season, the ski was running great. But again a good thing to rule out.

    I will not be back to the lake until this coming weekend, so it will be a few days before I can report on my findings. It does seem to me that the fuel system is working much better after the carb rebuild, so an electrical break down under load is very possible.

    Thanks for the suggestions. I do appreciate your help very much.

    joejr


    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Sounds like one or both cylinders isn't producing full power, or the carb isn't delivering the fuel.

    If you partially or fully apply the choke, does the problem get better or worse?

    Do you have the correct spark plugs installed?

    Check the spark plug caps and wires for correct resistances.

    On some engines, you can unscrew the spark plug caps, trim the wire back about 1/4", and screw it back on. This sometimes corrects a poor contact inside the plug cap to the wire end.

    Have you checked cylinder compression?

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